Car overheating badly
Car overheating badly
Please help me out with this - I'm afraid to do permanent damage to my beautiful new (well ok, its rusty and old but I love it) 1984 v8 SC
this weekend my dummy light for temp came on, when I stopped and threw up the hood, I had steam pouring out of the reservoir and coming up from underneath the engine, escaping between the belts (just to the right of the alternator).
I added antifreeze right away, which was all that I had in the situation, filling myself back up to "full hot" (it was below add, and boiling). I made it home after that, no more steam out of reservoir, btu still steam leak coming from under the belts.
I parked it, and the next day I checked for coolant under the car, and in the reservoir. it seemed fine. I drove it quick to the store, hoping that it would be ok, but the light came on again.
when I stopped and checked, my reservoir was a bit low (just above the "add" line) but I don't really think the car had heated up enough to raise its level, and no steam coming out anywhere. The engine did seem to be "rumbling" a bit though, something its never done before.
This morning, I drove to the bus station to come to work (had to, unfortunately) and the same thing happened. this time, when I got to the bus station and tossed open the hood, I had steam again!
Please help, is it a burst hose of some kind, and should I just take it to a mechanic and have them fix it, or should I give it a shot myself (not being the best mechanic ever, but if its just a hose replacement I think I can do it)
Also, is it safe to drive it home/to a mechanic? I'm not sure where I'm "overheating" because the engine seems to be running fine aside from the rumbling while stopped at lights and stuff (not even alot, just a little shaking it seems) and the light coming on, of course.
Oh, and when you open the hood you smell what I think is antifreeze burning? kind of a sweet smell.
Oh and its a 1984 305ci v8 LG4 engine.
this weekend my dummy light for temp came on, when I stopped and threw up the hood, I had steam pouring out of the reservoir and coming up from underneath the engine, escaping between the belts (just to the right of the alternator).
I added antifreeze right away, which was all that I had in the situation, filling myself back up to "full hot" (it was below add, and boiling). I made it home after that, no more steam out of reservoir, btu still steam leak coming from under the belts.
I parked it, and the next day I checked for coolant under the car, and in the reservoir. it seemed fine. I drove it quick to the store, hoping that it would be ok, but the light came on again.
when I stopped and checked, my reservoir was a bit low (just above the "add" line) but I don't really think the car had heated up enough to raise its level, and no steam coming out anywhere. The engine did seem to be "rumbling" a bit though, something its never done before.
This morning, I drove to the bus station to come to work (had to, unfortunately) and the same thing happened. this time, when I got to the bus station and tossed open the hood, I had steam again!
Please help, is it a burst hose of some kind, and should I just take it to a mechanic and have them fix it, or should I give it a shot myself (not being the best mechanic ever, but if its just a hose replacement I think I can do it)
Also, is it safe to drive it home/to a mechanic? I'm not sure where I'm "overheating" because the engine seems to be running fine aside from the rumbling while stopped at lights and stuff (not even alot, just a little shaking it seems) and the light coming on, of course.
Oh, and when you open the hood you smell what I think is antifreeze burning? kind of a sweet smell.
Oh and its a 1984 305ci v8 LG4 engine.
Well I would suggest that you don't even drive it anymore. You have already possibly caused serious damage to your engine. I would suggest that you check all hoses and check the water pump for leaks. And not that you have had it that hot I would also check your oil for water and check the heads for leakage. QUIT DRIVING IT TILL YOU FIX IT!
thanks for the input. I'm going to try and slide underneath it when I get off work and see if I can find where the leakage is occuring. Unfortunately, I'm not entirely sure how to check the heads and the oil for water, is there any fairly simple way to do this? Also, what would be the easiest way to tell if the water pump is pushing? I assume check the hose immediatly after it for pressure.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 0
From: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
I agree with the above post. Don't drive it anymore. I would start by just replacing the two large radiator hoses first, check/replace the thermostat while you are at it. Also check out your water pump/pulley/belt and radiator cap. It could be as simple as a stress crack in the hose that only opens under pressure.
However, if you notice water/antifreeze mixed with your oil then you have a far more serious problem.
------------------
92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi
However, if you notice water/antifreeze mixed with your oil then you have a far more serious problem.
------------------
92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi
whats the best way to see if i've gotten foreign fluids into my oil? open the cap and peer in with a flashlight? (i'm sorry for the stupid questions, but I'm trying to learn)
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 3
From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
First check the hoses and water pump. Most likely it's one of the two.
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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro
------------------
350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
well first do as the above posts mention. one way to check for foreign fluids(mainly water) in your oil is to pull the dipstick out and see what color the oil is. if it's a milky brownish color, that means water is in your oil. another way is to drain the oil out of the engine. although the first method is faster and easier.
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88' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4
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88' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4
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