Midnyte81

Ok, don't chastise me or insult my intelligence by saying, "Did you do a search?" I have done many since the beginning of this year and have yet to find the info I'm looking for. I would like to build a 350 engine with 400 hp/ 400 ft of torque. I have give or take $1500 and have roller rockers and other accesories. Help me out.This will be streetable and will not see 6000 rpm. I have a pro built TH-700r4 tranny.

kevinc

$1500 won't get you there.

High-end heads and a solid roller cam will put you into the area, it'll be streetable but you'll need to re-lash the rockers periodically.

Kevin Vandevenne

iTrader: (3)

It could be done for around $1500, but not with the TPI setup.

del91_305

I think your gonna need more than 1500.

brutalform

If you are resourseful, you may be able to do it. Check swap meets, E-Bay, etc. Try to sell stuff , like old parts you dont need, to offset the price. For what you do have in funds, will at least get you a good start. Gotta figure for gaskets, and all the little things we somtimes do not originally figure into the project.

vejatabul

i did it for $1200, but alot of it was "buddy" deals. i used stock vortec heads w/ approp. machine work, a completely stock non-rebuilt short block, a 284xe flat tappet cam, 650dp, flowtech shorties, and 83 octane gas. it can be done, you just have to be in the right place at the right time. unfortunatly, i could not duplicate this today.......

F-BIRD'88

350 flat top pistoned short block. Rebuild it as cheaply as possible using cast pistons. You do not need a 4 bolt main block or a forged steel crank or aftermarket rods, or a roller cam.

350ci/400hp-400ft/lbs recipe:

Chevy vortec heads. Modded for high lift and replacement hi perf springs (valve guide boss) . Stock dia hi perf springs. {Comp 981 or isky 235D} Drill and pin the stud bosses.
Unless your roller rockers are the self aligning type use stock GM 1987+ rocker arms and sell your rockers to buy the intake and carb.
Professional Products "Crosswind" intake manifold
Edelbrock 750cfm carb. (used)
Comp cams XE 274H-10 hyd cam and lifters.
1-5/8" headers.

About as basic as it gets and can be done for $1500 US.

Air_Adam

All the power is in the heads and cam... spend your money there and get the best stuff you can afford. Everything else is just complimentary to a good heads/cam combo.

Midnyte81

Here's the deal. I have a 350 that was in my garage. The flood came, filled the room up with so much water that the engine was floating and damaging parts, not to mention everything in the block is rusted. (Thank *** for homeowner's insurance!) My estimate is for over $2,700, but being the cheap bastard that I am, can't envision spending that much money at one time.

Here are the parts I have now
-350 block bored 4.060
-cast crank and rods
-chromoly pushrods
-1.5 roller tip rockers
-Holley 750 4bbl carb
-993 stock heads/2x416 stock heads
-2460 Hooker comp headers w/ y-pipe
-Holley Street Dominator intake(I'm not sure, but I think it is for a vortec head. The inner two bolts don't "exactly" line up to conventional heads and they're at different angles
Probuilt TH700r4 with Corvette servo, B&M 2000 Torkmaster TC, Transgo rebuild kit, stronger sprag assembly, valve body mods, 0.500 boost valve and matching low reverse boost valve. The Transgo shift reprogramming kit has already been installed

Here's what I'm looking into:
-High perf gasket set from Trick Flow=$114.95
-Comp cams XE268 Cam=99.88
-Powerhouse coated hypereutectic pistons=$77
-Powerhouse High vol pump w/ pickup=$19.99
-Hooker catback system=$269.95
-Catco or equivalent high flow catalytic converter=$64.69
-Rhoads Hyd lifters=$99.95
-Cailco coated bearing kit=$100.00
-CSR electric fuel pump=$259.88
-Milodon "Diamond Stripper" windage tray=$79.88
-Finally, the heads. I would like to buy some Vortec heads, but I'll have to get rid of the three pairs I already have. I'm pretty sure I can find some Vortec heads for about $200-400 dollars. For the 993 castings, I'll have to sink at least $600 in bowl blending, pocket porting, port matching, int/exh porting, increasing the valves to 2.02/1.60, installing screw-in studs, and pushrod guide plates. I know its a lot of work, and I'll see great results with them, but why do all that for something that can't outflow a stock Vortec head with 1.6 rockers?
So my conscience is saying, " Get the Vortec heads, pocket port them yourself, port match them yourself, smooth out the int/exh ports, don't exactly bowl blend the int/exh, but smooth out any rough spots that air will flow through in the head. Check to see if you can increase the size of the valves without changing the characteristics of the head. If so, get 2.02/1.60 valves. After that, send the heads, valves, rockers, to Calico for the coating process. (Give or take $200.00)
Oh yes, the engine bolt kit=$100.00
Price tag=approx $1787.00
I can live with that.

Midnyte81

I forgot one more thing that I already have. MSD 6AL ignition with ACCEL wires and Supercoil.
As you see in my combo that the guys that make the standards of engine building that we live by work to free up horsepower, not breaking their back to add on to it. I'll have a 1 in carb spacer Coatings are cheap and free up gobs of horsepower by reducing the reciprocating mass (oil) from the crank, pistons, rods, and whatever else you want coated. The coated bottom end, working in conjunction with the windage tray, should free up plenty of horsepower. As for the heads, keeping the heat inside the combustion chamber and exhaust port is the optimal condition for me. So, I'll coat both sides of the valves, the chamber, the intake, and the exhaust ports. If it can cool down cast Iron head water jackets as much as 40 Deg Celsius, why not do it? As far as the Rhoads lifters, why not have variable valve timing lifters? Its just like having hyd lifters for vacuum in the lower rpms and solids in the upper rpms. With the high flow cat and catback system working in conjunctrion to the Hooker comp headers, I want an exhaust that not only sounds good, but one that will flow based on my engine needs. The Muffler itself flows 441cfm. that's good enough for a street machine. When you take this exhaust setup in consideration, you may ask, "Will there be any bottlenecks in my system?" Yes if you have primaries that are too big, or too small, or secondaries that are too long, or a cat that can't flow, or a muffler that can't handle the flow of the rest of the exhaust system. Your exhaust can't scavenge if the pipes are too big, therefore decreasing your torque. I'm not an expert on setups, far from it. but I have taken my time, done my homework, and came up with this setup for a reason. I'm just asking the "pros" out there that have done it longer than I have for tips of whether or not this will get me to my goal of 400hp/400tq under 5500rpm. (This engine will "never" see 6000+) Any help is appreciated. Also, if you have any tips on porting Vortec heads and/or have some for sale, let me know.

F-BIRD'88

The intake you have with the angled center bolts holes is not for a vortec head. A vortec head needs a vortec intake manifold. the bolt pattern is different and the ports are raised.

The 416 305 heads have more potential in ported form than the 993 heads do. They need 1.94- 1.60 valves.
the 305 heads have a little better amd much smaller combustion chamber than the 993's. They both will out flow a stock vortec head, once fully ported,,, but the vortec head has better swirl. and a much better combustion chamber.
The vortecs are better than either.
There is more power to be had per$$$ in getting better heads than in all the "tricks" you have planned.

Forget the coatings . By your own admission this motor is not a high rpm motor. Oil control around the crank is relaitive to rpm. What you have planed will not return much of anything for the $$$ . A simple crank oil scrapper and windage tray is much more effective. AKA 1969 Z28 .

A XE268 will leave you a little short of your goals ( with all of the heads you mentioned.) Forget the Roads lifters. ( too much additional noise at idle for any potential gain in torque range. Pick the right cam to do the job. A properly selected street flat tappet solid lifter cam will return more gain in power, rpm range and low end torque than a roads lifter setup. And with less noise.

Building your won custom Y pipe merge collector (flowmaster collector) will result in more actual power gain in a 3rd gen exhaust system than any of the high tech coatings tricks. Look at the Mufflex stuff.
You'll need two catco hi flow converters not 1. A single muffler needs to flow about 800cfm for a 400HP motor.
Flow master delta force race mufflers fit the bill.

If you want to build a better "mouse trap" than the next guy, put your efforts and engineering in a custom made exhaust system for your third gen. More power to be had there than any coatings tricks. Most of the off the shelf performance exhaust systems leave a lot to be desired, especially for the price.

midnyteeight1

Ok. It's me, Midnyte81. Something weird is going on with my original account.
Anyway;
-High perf gasket set from Trick Flow=$114.95
-Comp cams XE274 Cam and lifters=159.88
-1.6 roller tip rockers=99.99
-Powerhouse coated hypereutectic pistons=$77
-Powerhouse High vol pump w/ pickup=$19.99
-Hooker catback system=$269.95
-Catco or equivalent high flow catalytic converter=$64.69
-Clevite 77 bearing kit=$57.90
-CSR electric fuel pump=$259.88
-Milodon "Diamond Stripper" windage tray=$79.88
-Finally, the heads. I can find some Vortec heads for about $150-300 dollars, depending on the work done to them. I'll get the Vortec heads, pocket port, port match, smooth out the int/exh ports, don't exactly bowl blend the int/exh, but smooth out any rough spots that air will flow through in the head. Then, take themto a friend's flow bench to test each port. Check to see if I can increase the size of the valves without changing the characteristics of the head. If so, get Powerhouse kit on page 20 of their catalog for $179 with 2.02/1.60 valves, .550 Z28 springs, screw in studs, guide plates, locks, retainers. Get a 3-4 angle valve job on the heads. Higher lift springs (Probably to .550 lift; All above items for the heads come in a) and of course, the vortec crosswind from Professional products ($159.00)
Oh yes, the engine bolt kit=$100.00
Price tag=approx $1784
I can live with that improvement. Is that a fair combo for what I'm trying to achieve? I'm not going to the 1/4 track, this will be for that guy in the Honda, Mustang, or late model Chevy busting his chops on the highway. Besides, I like a street car that everyone knows not to just step up to talking any kind of junk.

Metaldrgn

Don't, that's how the valves cool. Don't touch the exhaust ports because they will probably just burn up the coatings. I don't think it's really going to help the intake either, you might just end up making more "hot spots" in the heads which is worse. You can get the pistons coated, but that requires a teardown and new gaskets which will set you back $100 for the set.

If you want to keep the engine cooler, just install a 160degree thermastat (or no termastat at all, but there are consequences that can go with that because your engine has to warm up in a certain amount of time, but it really depends where you live) and program the computer to turn the fan on at that temp or just make it so your fan is always on when your car is running (Dont rig it where you willhave to turn it on and off. You WILL forget, I know I did and overheating your engine's not good). Try finding a way to wrap your fuel lines to keep the heat outside of them because that too can keep your total air/fuel intake temp down (that's what I'm trying to do right now because the fuel lines with TPI run closer than an inch from my uncoated headers and get pretty hot running). They make an additive to mix with your antifreeze mixture that can also help with cooling. LT1's with their reverse cooling are way better by design, but I didn't see if you said you already had a block or not. They are also probably out of your budget range because their parts are more expensive seeing hwo they were only made for 5 years.

See, lifters at higher RPMs do either 1 of 2 things by design:

1: sink down lifters (I think these are what you are talking about), which is good for high RPM performance, but can lead to Valve float which is bad for the cam (still the better of the 2 I would say).

2: pump up lifters eliminate this problem, but they also introduce a new one. The valves won't touch the seat at high RPMs and that's how they cool down. You could end up burning a valve and having a bad idle and noticably lower power throughout the power curve

There are books you can get that actually give you much better advice for budget builders, but I'm guessing you aren't really interested in that right now. If you are I can tell you what I've got.

You could build a 400HP/400TQ engine below or @5500 for under $1500 as long as you can buy the shortblock and don't need to take it apart. You can get some heads from a salvage yard (look up some casting numbers with good flow rates or go there and get the numbers and go look online to find the flow numebrs) and had them ported. Even just a pocket port should give you good enough flow for that much power and shouldn't cost that much. then you need a good cam and most that I've found to give higher power figures use more duration on the exhaust by 10-20 degrees (that's from the seat not 0.050) and your overlap should be 50-65 degrees. Of course another major thing to get is headers. Shorties will do nicely. That can be one of the biggest restrictions along with the stock exhaust/catalyitic converter. Make sure your fuel system can handle it too. The last thing you want is to run lean and start pinging. Get a new double roller timing chain too since they don't cost too much.

That's about all I can think of right now. Here's a picture of my power curves once I finish my engines. The 350 is the one that's almost done and the LT1 is on hold for now and is not definite as far as head and cam configuration go seeing how I've already got 9C1 LT1 cast iron heads. The 350 curve is meant to have Y pipe exhaust with 1 1/2" headers and a highflow cat/muffler along with fairly good flowing heads and a mostly stock intake that flows about 800CFM (that's single plane). I actually messed up on the cam and didn't recheck some numbers because I didn't know you had to order your cam @0.050" lift and ended up rushing myself and got a cam that wasn't as good as what I wanted, but it'll do for now. It has cost me over $2000 ( that's including the $400 for the crate longblock with 4-bolt main ) as of now, but I had alot of work done to the block that didn't have to be done (over $850, but makes the engine more reliable and longer lasting) and valve work done on the heads along with some self porting work along with some ARP bolts, moly rings, and a custom, dual pattern, comp cams flat hydraulic cam (custom flat runs about $90 more. Roller hydraulic is way more and I suggest you stay away from that if you can. Stay away from customs cams unless you know what you are doing). My car came with shorty headers (not sure if they are 1 1/2" or 1 5/8", but they were on the 305 TPI) and a flowmaster exhaust with mandrel bent pipes (crush is stock) so I didn't have to worry about exhaust flow after the heads and saved myself some money.

midnyteeight1

Ok, I see there is slight confusion from the last posts I have made. My engine is a 2-piece rear main seal 4-bolt main, flat tappet block. (4.060 bore) I made a decision not to go with the coatings, just the scraper and windage tray. To be more economical, I will use the 993 castings since they are free, and have them fully ported, fitted with the kit listed above from Powerhouse (2.02/1.60). I'll get the Comp cams XE274 cam since it meets the specs I'm looking for. I will get the gasket set and hyp coated pistons. (though I wonder would it matter if they were cast or not) After all, the whole point is to re-build the engine since it was flooded and has rusted. I will use my dual-plane Street dominator intake and get the Holley-spec engine bolt kit. I have the Hooker comp 2460's for the thirdgen. I'm still getting the Hooker cat back system and the Catco catalytic converter. I won't get the CSR pump for now. Please understand that I "have no computer" in my 84 Z28. Therefore, no chip replacing, prom tuning, or any of that. That is the whole reason I'm not dealing with fuel injection. (At least for now until I can't afford the price of gas. ) I have a Holley 750 4bbl carb with a 1in open spacer. Now that should get me to where I want to be. Again I'll remind everyone, this will never go to the track, unless I put it in the parking lot. I've lost too many F-Bodies to "experiments" and driving it like you stole it. Also, my cooling system will be fairly cool, since I have my fan set up to stay on the entire time the car is running and I have a 3-core aluminum radiator from a previous F-body project.
Price list (Hopefully for the last time.)
*Engine bolt kit=$100.00
*High perf gasket set from Trick Flow=$114.95
*Comp cams XE274 Cam=99.88
*Powerhouse coated hypereutectic pistons=$77
*Powerhouse High vol pump w/ pickup and drive=$19.99
*Hooker catback system=$269.95
*Catco or equivalent high flow catalytic converter=$64.69
*Powerhouse bearing kit=$40
*Milodon "Diamond Stripper" windage tray and crank scraper=$100
*Powerhouse head kit on page 20 of their catalog with 2.02/1.60 Stainless steel swirl polished valves, .550 Z28 springs, screw in studs, guide plates, locks, retainers, and seals.=$159.95
*Head machine work=$200.00
*A double timing chain=$20
*Summit alternator bracket=$59.95
Here is what I have on hand:
-right now, I will use the high flow pump I bought for my Old Firebird
-I have the 4-bolt 4.060 bore 350 block, rods and crank
-I have the Holley Street dominator intake (Brand new) and 750cfm 4bbl carb
-I have hardened chromoly pushrods
-I have a set of lifters
-I have a set of 993 heads that I will port, polish, and bench flow test myself. I'll have the seats cut for the bigger valves and the screw-in studs installed at the machine shop
-I have a stock flexplate and dampener(There is no need for the high end types, especially since I'm not racing.)
-I am using a V-belt style set up and have all the brackets for it to function properly
-dual 12v battery setup with a gear reduction starter and a 140 amp alternator
- Belts, hoses, wires, plugs, and all the other accessories needed for a swap
All for a grand total of, drumroll please,
$1327 dollars approximately
Unless I can find some heads that flow better than those or will have the same or larger valves than 2.02/1.60 for less than $350, the 993's are the ones I'm going with.
This will be great because I'm deployed right now, but in less than a month, I'll be home. I'll go to the newly built Summit racing store in Atlanta to get what I need and not worry about shipping. ( I hope they have military discounts ) If you see any great deals on heads, let me know.
As far as the books and researching, I have looked into both. The combo that I even put up at first was claimed to make 421 fwhp and 438 ft/lbs of torque. That was posted by "Hot Rod Magazine" October 1990 edition. I want to make sure we're all on the same page. I wish to make 400 fwhp and the same in torque, therefore making 300 at the wheels. (After calculating drivetrain loss, 25%) How does this sound?

midnyteeight1

I almost forgot to add $30 for the header wraps that I will install for the portion inside the engine bay.

darrells3rdgen

first off I'm new to this message board stuff, but have been weened on chevy small blocks since I was 16 yrs old and rebuilt my first engine.

I have a 86 trans am with a 1969 350 sbc that I rebuilt and installed last year. the car is estimated to have 450+ hp and about 400 ft lbs torq.

what me and a friend did to the engine is as follows.

block was bored 30 over, and line bored to match the forged crank.and total machine shop work was $250.

a set of forged pistons with file fit rings. $400.

edelbrock 750 cfm carb, rpm cam and lifters. $280.

heads are edelbrock aluminum heads $ 1200. cloyes timing set. $65.

msd hei distributor and wires $375.

ac delco rapid fire plugs. $20

melling hi pressure oil pump. $60.

edelbrock fuel pump. $80.

engine gasket set $35.

edelbrock rpm intake manifold was free, and so was the braided stainless fuel lines.

I also had a set of edelbrock valve covers and matching breather that I took of my hot rod chevy pickup, along with a few other parts that saved me a few hundred bucks

I spent some where between $3,000. and $4,000. when I first rebuilt the engine and installed it in the car, but since then the car has nickled and dimed me so as of now I would say I have over $7,000. in my car .


also, before I swapped out the original 305 ho engine , I put my car on a diet. she lost a few pounds when I tossed the airconditioning out. along with all smog equipment, relocated the battery to the trunk, and lowerd the car by 2 inches.
and I'm still trying to loose a few more pounds myself.

darrells3rdgen

also I forgot to mention that the guy's at autozone where I bought all the edelbrock parts gave me $50 bucks worth of free stuff for spending that much money.

midnyteeight1

Hey. Nice combo. Now I know why the guys at engine builders last year coated their heads, valves, and int/exh ports. It was for combating detonation. You can run a higher compression without worrying about detonation with coatings, not to mention the fact you can run on 87 octane pump gas. Also, Calico guarantees that their product will not wear off. (It's a lifetime guarantee for the head and valve coatings) Also, I run a 160 thermos. Cooling will not be a problem. To start with, I bought this car the last time I deployed in Oct 2004, so I'm coming along well in my project. After this, I'll be building go-karts for my wonderful little boy and girl. (No Jr dragsters for them!) For those that want to see some easy 200, 300, 400, and even 500 hp and tq stats on simple build small blocks, check out: http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com. There are over 108 combos from the top aftermarket part makers. As for me, I'll be going with combo #53. The only difference is the fact that I'll be using a two plane design, so I should be having more tq in the lower rpms, but I'll sacrifice a "little horsepower." But who cares, it will still be over 400 at the flywheel and 300 at the rear wheels.

fin170703

thats a great web site there mate . just what i was after

katman

Here's a head that I sell a lot of that my head porter also likes.
They are made by Renegade, not too well known yet but the specs and price speak for themselves!
190cc intake
64cc combustion chambers
2.02/1.60 valves
Straight or angle plug (I suggest angle for plug access with headers)
Early style (pre 87), non-EGR
Bronze Guides cut for .530 seals
Hardened steel seats
Accepts standard or center bolt valve covers
comes assembled with stainless steel valves
Dual springs for up to .700 lift
7 degree retainers
Machined locks
guide plates
3/8 screw-in rocker arm studs
here's the flow
.200 112.5 97
.300 163.3 135.5
.400 209.2 167.9
.500 243.5 176.4
.600 265.2 175.8

Now for the price $875.00
only a little over $300 more than Vortecs!

OH did I mention that these are aluminum!

Comp Pro Comp, 1.52, 3/8 stud $249.99
Comp Pro Comp, 1.6, 3/8 stud $249.99
MotorVille stainless clones of the above $219.99

darrells3rdgen

If I had the "$$$$$" I would love to get me one of these into my car





Price: $16,999.95

Part # SD572620EFI
Brand: Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
QTY: 1




Description
650+ HP 572 cid Fuel Injected Pump Gas Street Warrior Series Custom Crate Engine Assembly

SDPC has turned the big and bad into the brutal. Our 572EFI engine complements power and performance with style and grace, making the competitors shake with fear. The ultra bad 620 hp 572 crate engine is combined with an Accel EFI 1000CFM fuel injection system controlled with an Accell Gen VII computer and wideband O2 sensers.

Our new 650+ HP fuel injected 572 crate engine is built around an all new Gen VI tall deck Bow Tie cylinder block. This all new race block is filled with a forged 4340 steel 4.375 in stroke crankshaft, 4340 steel H-beam rods, and forged aluminum pistons with full floating wrist pins producing 12.1:1 compression. Plasma moly piston rings are standard as is the screened and louvered windage tray. Our all new EFI street/strip engine is filled with hard core race parts for hard core performance and long term reliability.

darrells3rdgen

but on a serious note. like others have said a good cam , carb or fuelinjectors along with a little head work you could get respectable hp gains, but as with any hp gains of any kind you should consider improving your oil system by either installing a better oil pump and adding a windage tray ,deeper oil pan, plus improving you cooling system with a better radiator and if you'r running a electric fan go with a dual set up with a sensor around 160 degree . improving these things will help you'r engine out a ton,

also , I should have mentioned this before, before you try to run a 3rd gen fbody car with 400 ft lbs of torq there are other things that will need to be prepared first or you will destroy your car, and first the body on these cars cant handle that much stress without to much flexing . example the roof of the car just right above the doors you will see that it will have a slight wave in the natural body curve, in you can see a ripple in it then that is because the body of the car has been subjected to to much stress, to help prevent this you will need to weld in sub frame connectors, to give the body more support.

next you should pay atention to you'r brakes. with a higher hp car traveling at higher speeds those stock brakes just wont be there for you when you need them the most.

and of course suspension and tires should be upgraded also. because you could have the worlds fastest car on the straights but I you'r car cant hold the road at higher speeds then what good is all the extra hp going to do for you, " get you killed"!


so other suggestions if I may. isnstall a rollcage, and atleast a 5 point harness . an emergency fuel shut off, and engine kill switch, drive shaft safty loop. I can keep going and going, safety is very important not just for you but it's for others to.



most of the things I have listed and some I didnt I have done to my car, they do make a difference trust me on this.

darrells3rdgen

I wouldnt go with the csr electric fuel pump that is a little to much for that , you can get a very good holley electric pump for under $150 .
by the way I didnt know CSR made electric fuel pumps or any fuel pumps . or for some reason they dont list them on there web site.


and one more thing . I have a friend with a set up like you have posted, and he ran into 1 problem, that was the 750 holley carb was to big for that comp cams XE268 cam. he latter swapped it to a 650 cfm and had better responce from the cam. he may have had a bad holley carb.

you can give holley a call at there 1 800 number and give them the details of you'r buildup 350 and they will recomend correct carb and they can tune it to your cam spec's .

midnyteeight1

I'm not going with the Electric water pump. I know It will save me the 20 extra HP, but I already have a high flow aluminum one. Secondly, I will be using the XE274 cam with the Holley 750, I'm going to get the valves, combustion chamber, and ports coated. Why? Car craft, Chevy engines, and Calico says you can run your compression 1 point higher on 87 pump gas with the coatings without fear of detonation. There are tests that show all the way up to 11.7 cr without detonation on iron heads. Not that I'm trying to go to the 11 zone, 9.5-10.0 is fine for me. I like that cushion of comfort that really doesn't cost all that much.

midnyteeight1

Also, in no way, form, or fashioin would I recommend any of you to make any performance upgrades without considering saftey. I have poly bushings for the front and back end, upgraded shocks and struts, Pirelli tires, poly graphite brakes, (They're not Brembo's or Willwood's, but they work just as well.) I'm working on the auminum driveshaft, sub-frame connectors, and many other suspension compnents, as well as priming, painting, and putting remote door poppers on my car. (Yes, the door handles will be shaved) If everything goes right, I will have poppers for the front two doors, and two just for the trunk.My whole project will be a total of $2,000. That's not bad at all. (This is an expensive hobby.)

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

man your setup is just about exactly what im going to be running. xe268 cam holley street dominator and 650 double pumper. but i have no internal motor work. its a stock 4 bolt main bottom end.

Midnyte81

Though I talked to you earlier, I'm just reminding you; the heads might have to be modded just to make sure the pushrods don't rub against the valley. You already know its a bad idea for press in studs with a cam over .480 lift (.480 lift with 1.6 rockers is .512 corrected), since you'll need screw-in studs after the cam and rockers beat the stud out of the hole (I know from experience; this is my third-thirdgen). The xe268 is great for the price you paid for it, but the best "streetable" flat tappet cam from "CC" is the XE274. For anybody looking for power out of stock heads, look for the user name "Sitting Bull" because he breaks down porting and polishing instructions for even an infant's comprehension (Standard Abrasives is also an excellent source). The goal is 220/170 at .500 lift (For most "streetable" applications). If you have 200-300 dollars to spend, I would personally recommend you to go to Warner Robins towing and get the "Vortec heads" the old guy has in the back. Make sure you act like they're any old head, but the exact replacement for a car you already have. I have seen him go from $150 to $400 just by my facial expression. Good luck and happy Racing!!

Midnyte81

Like I said before, you can do all you want to your heads, but they won't beat getting a better pair to start with.

Milton

Midnyte81

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