Got a lot of good miles from my machine and getting ready to renew it. I've hit 150 in it's younger days and want to add some power. Anyone have some ideas with history to back it up? Can make program changes and mods as neccesary, but would like to hear some testimony.

 

Welcome Aboard!

I'll be bumping this topic over for better exposure.

 

i am in too i would like some insight as well.

 

Headers, high flow cat, and catback. I went from a 14.8 to a 14.0 with full exhaust. I used:

SLP 1 3/4" headers
Catco high flow cat
Edelbrock RPM catback

After that I would do a new intake manifold and runners. I would use the Accel manifold and AS&M runners.

After that I would do a cam, maybe a ZZ4 or slightly bigger cam.

 

Do exhaust first. Then the TPI needs to go, it a major restriction and is not a performance intake setup. 300hp is about the max limit for TPI.

 

Me Leigh try 400hp, but thats pushing it and very hard to do, baseplate and runners are very good idea, get the TPIS(edelbrock) baseplate, it is ported for TPIS (as&m) runners.

Oh its a performance intake just it was designed for the 305, not the 350 or 383

 

I don't consider 4500rpm performance.

If you change to a different type of fuel injection manifold, it is no longer tuned, thus no longer TPI.

 

Sounds like I have some work. That's ok. I am Flomaster, cat back. Could do better up front. Not ready to change intake components yet, but willing to clean them up for the short term. Replacing is an option in the near future. Heads wouldn't be out of the question. Ready to spend a small amount in that area now. Getting the cam right is important. It's the most work to replace. I am looking for something that is streetable and works with future intake mods as well. Currently have an '88 L98 with stock roller cam. Tuning is not a problem as I have said before. Not sure what heads are in place, will definitely know more tommorrow.

 

search, read, then post if you don't find the answer

 

Heads, maybe a cam while you're in there, heads, some headers would be nice, heads, a high flow cat typically helps some, heads, I personally like the Big Mouth and AS&M LTR set-up for a TPI, heads, try looking into the Prom board for some insight on tuning. Did I mention heads by chance? Look for Chris89GTA's posts. He's running rather impressive times for a stock intake through stock manifolds.

 

do you think he should try heads also?

 

OK, got the message. There are so many people talking about heads that it's hard to decipher. Read where vortec's require a new intake, not ready for that yet. TFS, Dart, where does it end? Some say porting an polishing would be sufficient on my heads if the valves were opened up. I want a daily driver with some "look out" attached to it. Still haven't got a clear answer on the cam yet. Thanks for your input. Anyone have any hard numbers? The heads and cam need some attention for sure. The exhaust is getting it's fair shake already.

 

If my opinion counts any here is what i would do.

Rebuild your engine capable of supporting the power output you would like to see in the near future. that may be 400 hp, so get internals that can support 500hp.

So a stock crank wont do you much good. Get a SCAT crank new, fordged is best, but you could also settle with their cast steel cranks.

Rods, i am currently using summit stage II rods, they were on a big sale, almost half off on summit when i purchased.Dont know if they still are. But they are great rods and rood for high HP.

Pistons, i'd get KB -10cc ish pistons, fordged is best, but hyperutectic will work.

Top end is most important now.

For a low buck, high output motor. Vortec's seem the most popular. And for $400 a set you cant really scream at all. but if you have time, port some stock heads, if ported correctly, 10 hours of work can flow just as good, or better then vortecs. And you'kll be able to say they are "custom" heads. Each porting job is different then another due to casting differences. Try to go for a minimum flow amount to be 230-240cfm. Properly ported thats easy enough.

Next is intake and cam. You intake much match your cam and vice versa. I personally love the look of the TPI, but it just seems to me that it likes to sybolize R!ce. Looking cool, but performing crappy. the long small runners are great for street driving. But they are small in diameter and flow like crap at high rpm. Either changing baseplates and runner's(like $650) or gettign a stealth ram, modified Lt1 for $100 cheaper, you can flow well into a respectable range.

Cam selectipn is hard. but different cams perform differently. I always wanted a lopey idle, but i drive my car everyday. It needs to have a respecable idle, and be semi effiecent. And flow well at the rpm range i'm looking at. FOr you i'd say. you'll love 6k-6.5k....


But anyways, have fun with your project. they're all differnent and each time they become more exciting.

 

The next time I have my TPI (L98) motor rebuilt I will have a roller cam installed that also has a cam lob for a mechanical fuel pump. So when I get tired of working on my TPI system everyday I can just remove all of my Trouble Prone Injection system and all that other stuff that is not needed, and put on a 650 Edelbrock carb with a manual chock.

 

This is going to be one example of the things that has depreciated on this site over the years. Knowledge and common sense.

It’s generally a combination of the skill of the builder, tolerances as well as the conglomeration of parts and RPM range (biggest of all) rather than just the conglomeration of parts that will dictate what HP an engins can ‘support’ or ‘handle’.

How on G0d’s green earth did you ever come to that asinine and ignorant conclusion? You don’t even know what his operating rpm range is. He hasn’t said anything about running a power adder or such so where do you come up with ‘You need a forged (proper spelling BTW) crank’?!? How is a Scat better than a blueprinted stock casting?!?

Mmmm… overpriced stock reworked rods. You can do better work for less with the same rods.

Yep, that’s it, slap in dished forged pistons over hypereutectic (correct spelling again) or even -gasp- lower silicon content castings. Yep, that builds HP right there. Even more so if you have them .020 in the hole with some nice 72cc chamber heads! That’s the ticket right there!! You tell ‘im! Let all those good secrets out of the bag. All those people going with flat tops or domed pistons with a flat decked block must be trying to de-tune their motors I guess.

After all the smoke you just blew up this kid’s *** you drop to vortec heads as the proffered advice?!? At least no one can call you consistent… except maybe Ronald McDonald.

TPI symbolizes ****?!? Holy crap, NO!!!!! I must go out and get some whale tail 20 ft high wing now… And how is switching baseplate and LTRs to another baseplate and LTRs change the intake from being a TPI intake?!? With the miniram, stealth etc. sure, but?? I also guess Chris’ 13.39 on stock intake and manifolds is impossible huh? Hell, on a -stock- intake?!? Noooo…..

He would never have guessed different cams perform differently. Heck, we were all under the assumption that that all cams performed the same! What a revelation!! And I would never have thought to limit the cam selection to just the intake! What was I thinking taking into account the heads, exhaust and driveline?!? Pfff… too much work that way right?!? Go back to hanging out at McDonald’s… or as RB says… The previous was brought to you in it's entirety by the Dark Side where everything is, well, Dark. Thank you and have a good evening.

 

Funny, but you're still a dick.

 

ROFLMAO @ Red Devil... those type posts still get me!!!

Alright... My take. Exhaust (at least a catback) and headers if you can, then heads/cam. People hate on the stock intake way too much IMO. There are guys w/ way more intake than I have and they are still running slower. My car went 13.3 @ 102.5 w/ a 1.9 60" on the STOCK TPI intake (only modification was knocking down the walls in the pleneum, and stock exhaust manifolds. I have a Hooker Catback but that is my only exhaust mod. I have a converter and ProBuild transmission that should be in the car in the next few weeks so we will see what that does for times. I think the stock TPI w/ the right h/c and headers/exhaust can see low 12s. I may be completely wrong, but its all in the setup. Most guys would say that I have way too much cam for a TPI intake, but what having the bigger cam has done is move my torque peak up in the RPM band. I have no less torque at peak than any other TPI setup, but I do have it at a higher RPM range thus allowing you to move faster down the track. Yeah the car runs out of breath at around 4500-5000 rpm, but the car is moving... My point... Don't hate on it. My main goal is to get it as far as it goes!!!

 

And your car is still SLOW. What's your point? Beat my crappy taurus and then I may heed your musings.

Chris... *cough*plenumvolume*cough*....

 

sorry guys, when i read that post now, i can tell i wrote it late at night. 11:32 isn't considered late to most but when you work 14hour days, while owning your own business its late.




Sorry

 

I know...

 

Owned by the Sandman. Sucks.

Chris, got a spare yet? I could always start with just that before the season is up.

 

Ya know, this has to be said.

You take a guys post apart and try to make him look like a fool...

All after you offer the most generic-build suggestions possible.

Head, cam, PROM tuning, exhaust and intake...

Gotta give you some credit though, you did mention a brand of intake setup

So you think when I rebuild my motor I should consider heads, cam, intake, exhaust and PROM tuning as well?

 

Actually to make him an idiot we could have told him to hit the search button!!!

Obviously what we listed is a generalization of things to be done. Gives him a basis for his search. I mean I could go into great detail on what my car runs w/ what mods I got and which ones I don't. But I really don't care to get into a pissing match w/ guys over the BS they call, or what I did or didn't do wrong. Go back to wherever you came from and quit trying to tell people that actually took the time to make a decent post that we are trying to make him look like a fool...

 

Are you even reading the same thread I am?

Go back to where I came from...jeesh..

Why is it the chick always has to open her mouth?

 

Pretty sure its the same thread assclown. Where you are coming from is somewhere I am sure not many people besides you can tell... as for the chick comment, you opened your mouth first and complained...

 

No, I really don’t know that, but since you always seem to take exception to my posts, feel free to flap your gums. It’s typically amusing.

Notwithstanding the actual post in question (unless you think it was correct, in which case you need some help as the author doesn’t even agree with it!!)…
No, he did that fine all by himself, I just entertained people with my reply while concurrently pointing out his fallacies. Hell, HE admitted it as well, he said he was owned by the Sandman, happens to everyone. Is comprehension of the events beyond your capabilities?

Actually, for most people with even the most basic of reading comprehension (say, kidrcth) understood that my post was written in such a way as to illuminate the reader unto the profound virtues of a good (and I don’t mean vortec here boys and girls) pair of heads for a TPI set-up. (Or something like that in a fifth grade vocabulary if it’ll make you feel better.)

Additionally you may note that there were two people who asked similar questions with regard to the same underlying issue and as such I wrote my thread in such a way as to encompass, generally, both questions. Unless your extra-sensory powers are so vast as to have foreknowledge of their eventual combinations, you really can't be too specific. My ESP isn't what it used to be. Sorry.

My preferred out of the box LTR TPI set-up yes. Not my favorite set-up, one doesn’t exist yet.

I would hope if you were serious, yes. You could always just run stock everything and be happy with sub-200 hp. :shrug:

Apparently, unless you think a long block with forged internals topped with vortec heads and with a LTR TPI setup is a good investment and path to HP. But then again, I haven't seen you show us the path to power in this thread yet. 'Stock rulz!!' Right?

I can’t, they kicked me out for being too ‘mean’.

I don’t know dear, why don’t you enlighten us?

 

Assclown, I like that.

Let me speak slowly for you so you will understand...

Original Poster asked for engine build suggestions.

RD posted generic build, intimating he preferred Brand X intake (and exhaust), then contridicts himslf and points to a guy? (you) running stock intake and exhaust manifolds.

I have no problem with that, ede sugests a search first, questions later.

I have no issues with anything here up to this point, nothing, nada, zilch.

You still following along?

Good, I can slow down if you want me to?

Then another Poster suggest certain items to use

and his specific parts.

Then RD comes back and slams the **** out if him.

Still, all at the same time, offering no further advice that can help the original poster out.

Then you dance in, for what reason I really don't know, and reply to me like I've given you a wedgy.

So if your panties are still bunched up feel free to PM me and we can continue on...or we can banter back and forth until this thread gets locked, really doesn't matter to me.

 

-sigh- I'd hoped for some fun Mikey. Instead you make me explain rationale yet again....

Just to clarify before you attempt to crucify me…

There was no contradiction (or exhaust reference, I prefer my own). I was putting that reference in my post (in context Mike, remember?) to emphasis the fact that heads (IMNSHO) are the paramount consideration to anyone’s ‘combination’ with regard to 'TPI'. I don’t spoon feed, I try and have people learn. I think that was clear to most.

Again, notwithstanding the fact that ChevyRacer HIMSELF admits he was a tad too tired to write that post correctly (and I don't really think that was slamming the **** out of him either)…

Apparently you didn’t really read that post, or you were too excited about trying to take a hack at me -again.
Maybe you could answer the questions I raised (I never said the post was not a good tool for illistration)? How is a Scat cast crank better than a blueprinted stock cast one? How is HP level directly correlated to engine longevity with no reference to rpm or any montion of poweradders -sans or otherwise? You don’t agree that Scummit’s rods are no better than well worked stockers? Or that they are overpriced for what they are? Should we touch on the dished pistons comment without a reference to heads, cam, etc.? And the TPI=****? Another reference to Chris’ motor was made there as well. What pray tell was wrong in anything I said Mike?

Actually if you read into what I said you will (as I hoped others have) gain an understanding of the issues at hand. Maybe borrow lonestar’s ‘corrective logic’? Doing what I did in the manner in which I did it should lead both of the posters with questions down, hopefully, a path with more, directed, questions. As I said before I don’t like spoon feeding people, they don’t learn **** that way. My style, and yes Mike, I know you don't like it.

 

RD explained his point. My view on his point of heads are the key is that you can look at my SETUP, and see that the intake is not killing me as much as some people thing. The heads have killer head flow, and the area under the curve is good so I make good linear power w/ the TPI intake even w/ the bigger cam that is more suited for short runner setups.

So you decided to come out and make comments for general amusment then if you have no issues w/ anything said so far? Or might you have some small "issues" w/ a particular board member... RD is harmless!!! LoL

No I am good, but damn sure seems like I need to go back to the beginning for you and take it even slower on my part this time...

Don't flatter yourself. Takes a little more than a annoyance like you to get my "panties" in a bunch. There are no issues to be had on my part. Just wondering why you felt the need to open your mouth when it wasn't needed. But feel free to take it to PMs if you want. Although I have nothing further to say on the subject...

 

Chris,

Since you've nothing else to say, I guess we will agree to disagree.

My view on Red Devils post was an attempt to belittle ChevyRacer and make him look like a fool, obviusly your view is different and deem the post to be informative information.

I must apologize though for the "chick" comment, the line about "going back from where you came", didn't sit well.

 

ReDevil,

Looks like we posted at the same time, never even saw your reply once I hit send...

Anyways, without going back and re-quoting everything you mentioned, I'd like to bring up a few points:

1. You say "I'm after you again"? or similar? I don't recall ever "taking a shot at you" or even arguing a point with you...please refer me to the thread(s) you speak of.

2. You ask why would a scat crank be better than a stock reground one? I'll give you a few examples of when/why it's a better choice for some...no known shops in the vicinity tat do good work, user would rather have something at his door step than take time off from work/etc, to take parts in.

3. I'd be willing to bet ChevyRacer retracted his post because of the salm, not for being tired, heck, do you think he was tired and lack of sleep made him think he bought Summit Rods?

3. You talked about "effective" way to make HP (in your reply to me) slam CR about not knowing what the original posters goals are, at the same time make assumptions about effective HP...that you don't know. Maybe CR thought the guy wanted to run some boost, add nitrous, etc...sure, he doesn't know...but looking back on your post, you must know, since you're hammetring down on the used of forged bottomend parts.


Again, my point is you took the time and effort to eloquently nail a new-ish memebr, in my view to possibly show an air of superority on your part.

You mention
"How on G0d’s green earth did you ever come to that asinine and ignorant conclusion"

And that's not slamming someone?


The reason I haven't offered a suggestion on the "build", because the original poster hasn't even mentioned a goal he's trying to achieve...other than he "wants to add some power".

That said, we could go back to your original post via making assumptions of "wanting to add some power", he doesn't need new heads, he could touch up what he has and get 10-15hp easy, or go with (not proffered advice here) bolt on the Vortecs, add the SDPC base, any used AfterMarket runners, all with a mild lifted cam that he wouldn't have to work any further on the Vortecs with, and easily get 50-60 more HP than stock...that's Adding some power"...but then again, adding some power to me might be 50HP, adding power to him may be 200HP. But since I don't have ESP, I can't assume it...unlike you...who must have ESP...not in the state that you know what the guy needs...you just know what he doesn't need.

 

1. Thaaaaat may have been my fault. I'll call him and see if he can pop on this weekend. I had you confused with another (old)member from the NTB days. My bad.

2. I think he meant blueprinted, not reground.

3. After seeing his newest thread, I doubt it. I think they guy was trying to help but was ignorant of any real experience. (see newest thread)

3(a). I'm not reading it the same way, but it may be because I know him. He seems to be talking in general acceptable theories where CR was just popping off stuff. Really, do vortec heads and a forged bottom end add up? I think RD's post was originally just the concept of making sure you get the heads right. Everything else was a response.

And he's a natural *******, you wouldn't beleive how fast he gets those out. Eloquent on the other hand... not too sure on that. He's got a big enough head already.

-Steve (Black Bomber)

 

^Me.

 

I've looked at more specific equipment equipment now and would like to know what you think about a few product selections. I've been looking at the fast burn aluminum heads from GMPP, the 23' 46cc Duttweilers from TFS, and the 74cc comb. chamber 180cc in. port cnc'd set from AFR. It seems AFR has significant value in that no porting is supposed to be required and the flow numbers are up there. I would however have to use a slightly domed top piston to maintain my current compression. I've read somewhere that I would actually want to have a whole point more compression with the aluminum heads to keep the same "thermal dynamics" as the cast iron originals. Is that the same as saying that detonation at the higher compression would be the same as with the factory setup? Anyone else running or tried the AFR's? Anyone have any experience and insight to offer?

On another note, I have spoke with David at Comp Cams about cam selection. He recommended, with the setup he and I discussed, the k08-503-8. Anyone had any experience with this cam? More specifically, what is the effect going to be on vaccuum and will I be left with a reasonable idle?

The rest of the setup is looking like increasing stall speed a couple hundred rpm, Hedman headers and y-pipe(already 3" high flow cat and flomaster after that), open up and smooth the tpi plenum, open up and smooth the tpi baseplate, port match the baseplate to the heads and do what little if any can be done to the runners. Will also be making programming modifications to match the changes.

Input welcome....Insults not....Thanks!!

 

You're speaking in too many generalizations to really get anywhere...looking through your thread, I only pick up the following:

1. Stock intake will stay

Which really limits the rest of a build/needs


Since the stock intake is going to begin to choe the motor in the 4500RPM range, no need to run a cam that makes power in the 6000rpm range....you're heading for a mismatch (although I didn't look at the cam spec on the cam you mentioned...but it not necessary, IMO)

If you want 350hp, you need to design the build to get it, or drivability will suffer..i/e big cam, stock intake, is a mis-match.

AFRs are pretty much top of the line for most folks, so no worries if running them. The 180's will flow so much more than the stock intake can support, it'd almost be a shame to spend the money for them and choke them out.

Soo, all my dribble aside, what are your goals with the car? i/e 1/4mile slingshot, road racer, daily driver with excellent milage, etc....just noting some things that you have to keep in mind.

Building and engine/car actually begins at the "end" of the equation...after the answer, you then need to write the formula.

 

I can't believe people are still playing this tune.

 

Lol...what music have you been listening too?

 

I'm not looking for a sling-shot. A road racer is fine. I want something that works well in the mid-range. I don't mind that the heads are top of the line because it means I can't hurt them and they won't hold me up. I have already taken into consideration that the intake is limited to a certain degree because the runners are only so big. It seems that in order to stay on track with my goal, I need to build to the full potential of future intake mods. The intake is the area that I can change the least when it comes to the runners, but it's the easiest to get to to change out. I have all kinds of options where that is concerned. At this stage I want to have all of the basics covered and ready for the final "ker-plunk" of cash where labor isn't such an issue. It's in the near future and still in planning. I would hate to put something in this project that isn't going to work in the "final result." I don't need to be the fastest quarter mile, but I don't want every "tom, dick, and harry with an import or v-6" beatin me down the stretch. In simple terms, I'm looking to build one heck of a foundation.
BTW....I wouldn't mind impressing a few of my road course buddies too. (suspension next........) LOL

 

Ok, I've finished the rebuild. Having some problems though while tuning. I punched the 350 .030. Trickflow heads and 1.6 roller rockers, comp cams xr276hr-12 cam, port matched intake and exhaust, new comp cam roller lifters. Low vaccuum is the problem. I've checked gaskets with propane, listened with a length of hose, tried plugging off different lines, still low vaccuum. approx. 10" at 650 rpm idle and approx. 18" at 2000. I was experiencing low O2 volts of .03 sporadically after changing from 32b to 6e. That cleared up when i plugged the pcv valve line and the port for the passenger side valve cover vent. I've listened to the injectors for operation and hear the steady tick that I would expect. The egr vavle seems to be operating properly, but I can't verify how good the seal is when it is closed. I'm new to tuning and have spoke with comp cams to ask if this is typical of the cam and was told that I should expect 15" vac. at idle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

How does the car run when you step into it, say 2500rpms and up?


Any surging?

 

Seems to run fine. I've noticed a need for tuning small acceleration changes, but large throttle changes get decent pickup. I've been checking blm's in the typical rpm ranges and some not so typical. They manage to stay in the 120-140 range depending on where the maf is and whether I'm cruising, decel, or accel. Don't really have any surging.

 

that cam (xr276hr-12) specs out at .503/.510 Lift, 224/230 Duration at .050, 110 LSA ... the duration is pretty aggressive for casual street work. The LSA is pretty tight too. I am not surprised to see low vacuum at idle.

You may need to do some more work on the setup to get it working right. Maybe get a copy of Prominator and cut your own proms. Emissions would be a problem in my neck of the woods... don't know about yours?

I'll bet it pulls pretty hard WOT eh?

 

thnx for the posts. I am burning my own prom. I've got the Autoprom and all the hardware. Just tore down the plenum and runners to install a new EGR and adj. fuel pressure reg. Adj. the fuel pressure to 48 after re-installing everything and vac. is at 12" at idle and ~23 at 2000 rpm. I'm getting great accel. from about 3500 on, but concerned about tuning in the lower rpm's with this combo. Lobe sep. is 112 with this cam, you have all the other numbers correct. Keep in mind I'm running 1.6 rockers. That puts lift a lil' higher. The o2 still keeps dying off here and there. I'm concerned that it's still an issue. Second o2 and same basic results. idle is steady with a lot of ecm correction toward the rich side. It's pulling like you wouldn't believe in the upper rpm, but could use a great deal of help in the lower rpm's. I've got a 2000 rpm stall working behind this setup and a built 700r4 to boot. I am still running the factory rearend gear for the moment, but I really don't think it is the brunt of the problem. Sure would appreciate any info.

 

No doubt you have a screamin setup

I found out about low vacuum by installing a cam with these specs -> 217/225 .505/.525 and 109 degrees LCA in a 305 no less.... talk about learning the hard way

It would make about 11-12 inches vacuum at idle and it would just lumpety-lump away. I ended up tuning the prom to deal with the low vauum but that only helped so much. In the end a vacuum reservoir was about the only solution (short of changing the cam).

There must be someone on this board who has recovered from too much cam strictly through tuning.

 

I'm concerned about running this new setup lean if I go open loop, or even how to accurately setup the idle in closed loop. I've got blm's creeping into the 150's when the car is at a stand still. Part throttle seems to be dead on at blm's of 128 throughout the maf while cruising. I need to work alot on PE and enlean. I believe I'm self EGR'ing as grumpy would put it. I haven't figured out a way to measure afr at idle or stand still in gear. Does plug checking work for idle situations? or maybe egt's? I've got less than 300 miles on this setup and desperately trying to figure out how to keep my adjustments from going too lean at idle. I've searched the posts and found a lot of information about lumpy cams, but haven't found a sure way of preventing lean afr's when idle.

 

What about settling on a higher idle, maybe around 800-850. Atleast until you can scare up some more experience with the setup?

 

gtadude, you need to adjust your 1st maf table. If your part-throttle blm's are around 128 +/- 6, then your injector constant is fine where it is, if not, then adjust it up or down until you get to 128 +/-6. Then work on the first 4 cells of your first maf table starting from zero.

Take your current blm's which you said were 150 and divide into 128 by 150 = .85 or 15% lean. Highlight your first 4 maf entries in maf table 1 and multiply them all by 1.15, which will increase all of the values by 15%. Re-burn the chip and run the car and see what the blm's are after driving around and sitting at idle. Make these changes until you get your blm at idle where you want them.

 

Thanks for the posts! I did raise the idle rpm to 750 in drive, 800 in park. Helped a lot of issues. Doesn't smell like gas when idling, O2 doesn't drop off to .030mv anymore, idle blm's are looking like 140, and oscillation is nil by ear, +/_ 50 by log. I will play with the low end of MAF1 and the lower rpm to see what the effect is. I had a lot of concern for the lower rpm due to the gaseous smell after idling for 15 or more seconds and the oscillating. I appreciate the rich/lean percentage calculation. Ive used it on the cruise portions of the MAF tables. That's what helped to get the blm's down to the 128 area. Got a ton of stuff to move on to once the idle and cruise is nailed down. Finally getting some good data from the O2 during throttle transitions and finding some minor timing issues on acceleration by seeing a slightly increasing knock count. Just got a MAX233 interface working for data logging (thinking it may be just a little more efficient on laptop power than the autoprom, don't get me wrong the autoprom is a great tool). Ready to do a boat load more data logging. Where to go from here? Looking at accel enrichment and decel blm's. Not looking too bad, but on accel the O2 hovers around 800mv until things even out. Decel is not as well defined yet. Not enough driving log to have good info. Help if you've got it. I'm listening.