What I want out of the car is to be capable of running 12s. What kind of horsepower at the wheels is neccessary for this to happen?

Currently the engine is a stock L98 with only the intake system slightly modified (SLP CAI, TB Airfoil, K&N Air Filter)

Keep in mind that I would still like to retain the TPI setup as I like the way it looks. I will be getting the intake plenum ported, a granatelli MAF, 52mm TB from holley or BBK, the Edelbrock intake runners (I really like how they look). I will be looking at an entirely new set of heads and valve train to go with it. New cam as well, and a 383 stroker kit with H beam rods (possibly eagle?)

I was also looking at SDPC's vortec TPI intake manifold for use with aluminum vortec heads, Any thoughts on this piece of kit? I can't stress enough that I want to keep the TPI setup because of it's low end torque capabilities and the way it looks. I would like to keep the engine "looking" stock for the casual looker, but on the track be able to leave the competition wondering what's inside the engine bay.

I will be keeping the 3.27 rear gears, and having the transmission built up (internals freshened and correcting the 2-3 flare up issue) with a stage 2 trans go kit and a 2400 stall converter from vigilante. Will 2400 be too high to run the car on the street for casual city/hwy driving or will I need to drop a little bit lower?

Is this possible to have a firebird running 12s on street tires(Cooper ZPTs 245/50) with a 383 build up?

Also what parts would you guys recommend for heads and valvetrain (keep in mind that I want to keep the TPI setup, so its gotta fit) and cam grind to get some more power out of the engine. What other parts would be recommended for the rest of the internal bits (pistons, rings, bearings etc or will that come with a stroker kit)

Any help would be appreciated!

 

stock l98 will run 12s if you lose some weight

 

Hrmm, sounds tempting, however, I know I need a valve job done because of oil leaking into most of the cylinders and I have a sticky lifter on cylinder #6.

I would also like to freshen the engine up as it wasn't very well maintained from the previous owner. Only took me one oil change to grind down the crank bearings into nothing...

 

You need valve seals if oil is leaking in, not a valve job. It couldn't hurt on a high mile set of heads though to do a valve job b/c over time the valve hitting the seat wears the taper out.

If you are gonna go and stay w/ the TPI make sure to upgrade the base too. IMO the two biggest restrictions on the TPI intake are the limited pleneum volume and the base. Either port your stock base or get a big mouth one w/ some GOOD runners.

Honestly, a set of headers, a small cam, a good TPI build, converter and gears will net you 12s w/ traction. It all really depends on how "radical" you want to go. Cause radical to me on the street is a 10 sec motor car while to some its a 12 sec car...

 

I wasn't going to say I want to go 10s just because I know that it becomes very involved.

Is 10's even possible with a TPI setup or would there be some serious modifications having to take place to make it happen?

In my mind, if it's broke, upgrade it. My #6 exhaust valve is sticking (sounds like its missing an exhaust pulse sometimes and taps quite loudly) So I don't know how long it has been doing that because it only decided to voice it's opinion just recently. If something's wrong internally, I want to replace it and everything that it connects to so I don't have parts breaking 1 piece after the other and have to nickle and dime the car to death. So far that's really all ive been doing with the mechanical side of the car. Headlight motors broke 1 after the other, exhaust pipe weld seam split, had to replace the front control arms and every hose in the car, had to replace all sorts of lights everywhere in the car, tires, breaks(full job including rebuilding 2 ceased rear calipres). Just piece after piece after piece. The car is at the age where the mechanicals are supposed to fail due to age and wear, so...I wanna start fresh, be better than stock, and I am willing to pay for it.

So essentially bore the block out, replace 90% if not 100% of the internals and have it like a brand new engine ready to go for another 100000 miles and another 18 years.

Thats what I want, im just wondering about parts, which ones should I choose, which have you guys had experience with? Performance wise, durability, tempurature etc. What do you recommend for an intake base and so on.

Really appreciate the feedback so far, it's helpful.