Hey everyone. Is anyone using the 1094 FelPro gaskets ? They they're the steel shim "rubberized" version that compress to .015... I'm afraid to use them since it looks like they wont hold fluids too well. It feels like metal, the rubber coating is VERY light on them. Anybody use them successfully ? I've had my heads resurfaced and the block decked so the surfaces are pretty straight and smooth. Any opinions ?

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1991 Z28 6.0 TPI

360 4 bolt main block, TrickFlow 23 degree heads, CompCams CS270HR cam, Harland Sharp roller rockers, Accel base, SLP siamesed runners, 52MM SLP Throttle Body, Hooker Headers, Flowmaster catback, MSD6A ignition, Home made ramair system, 2500 stall, bullet proof 700R4, aluminum driveshaft...

[This message has been edited by crucial (edited October 08, 2001).]

 

I would not recommend the use of steel-shim gaskets for anything that has to withstand repeated heat cycles (i.e., street use). The extra tenth or 2 of CR isn't worth the inevitable reliability problems.

Use the regular blue FelPro gaskets and be trouble-free.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I wouldn't recommend them for al heads, as the expansion rate between the head and block is different. Use fel-pro 1010 for al.

For iron heads they would work good. Maybe a small bead of silicone around the water passages to be safe.

For al it' s better to tighten the quench by having negative deck height with the pistons sticking out the block .006" to .010" and use the thicker gasket.

 

The problem with 1010 gaskets is they're VERY expensive at almost 50 bucks a pop. I really dont feel like spending 100 dollars just on head gaskets. I think I'll go with the Fel-Pro #7733PT-2's. It's what TrickFlow recommends anyway. At least these are 17 bucks a piece which is reasonable. Guess I'll have to return the 1094s back to Jegs

 

For years, the factory SBC head gasket was a steel shim with no coating. When replacing, the common practice was to paint them with aluminum paint. Composite gaskets became popular for rebuilds because you could get by with slightly less than flat decks.

But, the only reason to use steel now is if you need the thin compressed height to improve your compression ratio. Cheaper than milling.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).