darkecho

Ok so i bought this 1990 Camaro RS for 250$ and am in the process of fixing it up a little bit..

Currently the car will shift if i am easy on the gas, if i floor it the car bogs down and when/if it does pick up, it takes forever/never shifts.. confusing?

so i decided to do a compression test, got all the numbers, the plugs and wires were shot as far as i can tell, the plugs looked bleached white and the wires were rotting, there are lots of vaccum hoses and stuff that looks like it needs replacing..

there is one tube that goes from the exhaust manifold to the intake, is it supposed to be rubber and clamped? because the dude who i bought it from put this useless pos duct on it and it doesnt hold pressure or anything and judging by the springloaded flap on the intake, i assume it needs to hold pressure...

so anyways here are the compression results.. i label them like so

Pass---Driver
8---7
6---5
4---3
2---1

1 = 188 PSI
3 = 179 PSI
5 = 185 PSI
7 = 197 PSI

2 = 200 PSI
4 = 195 PSI
6 = 187 PSI
8 = 182 PSI

are these good numbers? if so i will by new plugs and wires for the car and continue spending my free time working on it, if these are bad numbers the car is going to be parted out and sold on ebay then junked.. please let me know!!! the cars life hangs in the balance!!!

Apeiron

Those numbers don't look all that bad.

If the POS duct you're talking about runs from the manifold to the air cleaner, it's actually stock. The thermac valve closes when the engine is running cold so that the air cleaner draws warm air from around the exhaust manifold to warm up the engine faster.

darkecho

i just remembered that when i did the 1,3,and 5. the engine was warm. so i went back out today and did them when the engine was cold, so these are all cold numbers now.

Pass---Driver
8---7
6---5
4---3
2---1

1 = 188 PSI ---NOW 195
3 = 179 PSI ---NOW 189
5 = 185 PSI ---NOW 194
7 = 197 PSI

2 = 200 PSI
4 = 195 PSI
6 = 187 PSI
8 = 182 PSI

from what i calculate, these are all within 10% of the highest number, but thats a 20 PSI difference.. are these ok numbers? is the engine ok, good, excellent, or crap, mediocre, pos?

all numbers are cold now

sellmanb

Those compression numbers look great actually


Your problem lies within the tranny... it's definetly on the way out... but you should ought to check the transmission fluid level, and the color/smell of it as well. It should look redish pink. If it's orangish, or smells burnt you'll need to have a transmission service done... quick lube places should be able to do it, or you can do it yourself with removing the transmission oil pan... then you should replace the transmission filter and pan gasket.


Also you should re-adjust your TV cable settings... look at the write-ups on TV cable adjustment in the write up section.


Good luck!

darkecho

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

i am really happy to hear that the engine isnt shot! i am going to buy spark plugs and wires today and start that engine back up!

i have some pictures of a few things i had quesitons on, ill show them below..



1. what does this thing do? and what attaches it to the intake?


2. what does this do? i think it attaches under the intake to a nipple.


3. what is this thing? i think it attaches to a little plastic peice with a sponge in it where the air filter goes..

4. i found this while doing the compression test.. it was just dangling there, any idea what it is and where it is supposed to be plugged in at? it is on the passenger side down between the 8th and 6th cylinder or the one closest to the firewall and thenext one

THANKS!!!!!!!!!

Apeiron

What you're calling the "intake" is actually the air cleaner.

1. Heat stove for the thermac system.

2. Fresh air hose for the PCV system.

2. What it does depends on where the other end is connected, but it's a vacuum line of some description.

4. Probably or a a broken coolant temperature sensor that should be screwed into the head between #6 and #8.

darkecho

thanks!! does the thermac system have to be attached or not.. it doesnt get that cold here in california haha. and ill have to use a zip tie to get that vaccum line to stay on the intake...

im going to get new plugs and wires for it today and start her up with the new dizzy and rotor... i have a diagram of the firing order, i assume that since it goes ina circle all the time that i can put any plug anywhere on the dizzy as long as i follow that order right? if the firing order was 123 on a 3cyl engine, then the dizzy could go 231, 312, or 123 right? as long as its in the same order when it rotates...

thanks!

Apeiron

In california I'd be willing to bet you'd fail visual emissions without the thermac.

darkecho

grrrr. ur right... ill get that tube out of the trash, thats probably why it was there in the first place, just t pass visual haha

sellmanb

There should be a vacuum diagram on the under side of your hood. Study it for a while and then look at how your vacuum lines are located, then fix them heh.

This is how the firing order should go.

darkecho

ok so i just replaced the spark plugs and wires... now the car doesnt start...
the battery also seems dead, i think that the door was ajar or somthing but even jumpstarting it with my firebird doesnt seem to help... i think that maybe i got the wiring incorrect or something... i did what i saw in the picture but does it matter what node of the distrubtor i start on as long as it is in the right order? i think maybe i did it backwards hahah...but i doubt it

darkecho

ok so i just replaced the spark plugs and wires... now the car doesnt start...
the battery also seems dead, i think that the door was ajar or somthing but even jumpstarting it with my firebird doesnt seem to help... i think that maybe i got the wiring incorrect or something... i did what i saw in the picture but does it matter what node of the distrubtor i start on as long as it is in the right order? i think maybe i did it backwards hahah...but i doubt it

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

If I'm seeing the # 2 picture right and we're looking at the front of the T.B.I. unit, that hose goes to your P.C.V. valve. To make sure your rotor is pointed at the right cap terminal, rotate the engine until its at a 0 mark on the timing tab. This is T.D.C. and the rotor should be pointing at the #1 Distributor terminal or tower. If it isn't, pull the distributor out a little and adjust as necessary to get it pointing at the right tower. Remember to disconnect the tan wire with the black strip to bypass the E.S.T. cicrcuit when you're setting timing. Then plug it back in after the timing is set.

darkecho

ok so i figured out the problem hahha... im a retard, during the compression test i took out the fuel pump fuse so that it woudlnt be running fuel... yeah so i put that back in and the car started up... the timing was off and so i was messing with it to get it better but the light was still firing erratically.. maybe because th wires are crossed wrong or somthing? or maybe because the spring was close to the air cleaner which is metal? anyways then the car stopped starting and so i have given up for tonight... i think maybe it was on the wrong wire cause i could see the mark on the pulley and it was way way advanced.. and turning the cap didnt seem to affect it... so i duno. tomarrow is my first day at college so maybe later tomarrow i can work on it some more...

oh and the wires dont stay on the distributor cap very well and it pisses me off they just keep popping off all the time! UGH it sucks!!

sellmanb

Make sure that the spark plug wires are routed exactly as you see them in the picture. Just for reference, #1 is on the driver side, and #2 is on the passenger side.


It is VERY easy to get the wire route wrong several times (done it myself enough times lol) Go through the firing order and your spark plug locations again and again, then get your wife/girlfriend, or neighbor, or mom, or anyone else to double check it... sometimes you'll find that you go through it so many times wrong, that you dont even see what you did wrong until fresh eyes see


Did you gap all of the spark plugs to .035 as well? If not, take them out and do that. A gapper is only like 2 dollars, and it's vital that they're gapped correctly.


Good luck!

darkecho

i am pretty sure they are routed right... the car started and ran several times but i think maybe the battery is shot...

on another note, i have some disturbing news about vaccum hoses...


ok for one the picture under the hood doesnt look anything like the real thing... unless im looking at it wrong but im pretty sure im not...

there is one hose that splits into 3 hoses right next to the distributor on the passenger side. one of the three hoses goes directly to the top of the engine with a short 3 inch peice of hose that WILL not stay on the little 3 way splitter... then another of the three hoses goes all the way to the driver side then down the fender to this canister where it splits and one of the hoses goes to what looks like another pump or somthing behind the radiator but the other hose has a screw in the end of it.... yes a friggin screw....

and on the canaster i was previously talking about, there is a little hose attachment that says "AIR" but its got a cover on it so im sure if its really supposed to have a hose..
and there is a nipple for that hose in picutre 2 so i figured out where that goes... the air cleaner is attached to the enging by:
a wingnut, a electrical connector for the air sensor, the PCV breather, and this vaccum hose..
does that all sound correct?

so if you have any insight on any of this please hahah thanks so much you guys are helping me slowly but surely work my way through this!!

is there any way to know exactly which post on the distributor cap #1 cylinder wire goes on? if there is a specific post to put it on then i got the order down, but i need to know if there is particular post to put it on... is there a screw or something i can use as reference? thanks!!!

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

The hose in picture 2 goes to the P.C.V. valve and the short piece of rubber hose goes to the breather element inside the air cleaner. Sellmanb posted a pic that will show you where to find the #1 tower on the distributor. Use that as a reference point. You said the wires going to the Distributor won't stay on and that could be the problem with getting the car started. Those wires have to stay on. There's a Battery and Tachometer wire that plug in there. Also the wiring to the Ignition Module and Pick-up Coil also goes into the Distributor. Secure those wires and see if it will start. Let us know where you're at.

Apeiron

It's not the PCV hose in #2. The PCV hose is 3/8" in diameter, and is clearly visible attached to the throttle body. It's some other vacuum line.

darkecho

i am also wondering if i had an engine swap.. this car had a salvage title and having all these mickey mouse fixes makes me wonder if they just dropped a junk yard engine into the car and got it running enough to sell it....

i got the car to start but it stopped starting after that, i think that the timing is off and also the battery is dead which is kind of a problem... i jumpstarted it to get it going the first time... so i will be going home in about an hour to work on it some more. i will post again in maybe 3 hours with an update. thanks so much you guys are a huge help!!!!

BTW would the engine start at all if the distributor and wires werent right? i know i have them in order but i might not have started on the right post on the distributor cap and i dont know where on the distributor cap to start placing wires... they are all the same and the cap doesnt have any markings ... anyways ill let you guys know if the car starts.
thanks!

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

The hose is the wrong size. The location matches the one for my P.C.V. valve hose on my 305 T.B.I. camaro.

sellmanb

Yes it is possible to get a car started momentarily even with the wires routed completely wrong, and the distributor hiccupping.


Put the wires on the terminals exactly as it is in the picture I posted above. Though, if they put a new motor in, who knows whether they were able to get the #1 terminal lined up right lol.

darkecho

i got the car to start!

it just needed a really good jump start, i think the battery is dead..

there is still a problem tho.. i have it on spark plug one and im trying to do the timng but it looks either WAAY advanced or WAAAy retarded...

when standing at the front of the car facing the firewall... when u look down at the timing marks, which direction is advanced..

when i look down at the timing notch on the pulley with the timing light... the notch is like 5 inches to the left... is this advanced or retarded?? oh and the distributor cap is turned all the way clockwise..

what does this mean.. am i on the wrong spark plug?

and the car will run forever it seems so its not struggling, i thnk the wires are all on right.

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

If I'm readin this correctly, it sounds like you're retarded. The timing I mean. Take it to straight up zero and see how she does.

sellmanb

I THINK that left is advanced... it will probably idle higher, or seem like it the farther left it is. Just turn the distributor a little bit more counter clockwise (IIRC?) to get it right.

As far as the battery goes, you can bring it in to any auto parts store, or quick lube place and they should be able to test it for you. You'd be best to bring the car in to a quick lube place though since they can test the alternator on the car as well... Some times when a battery dies it's because the alternator isnt charging it lol.

darkecho

ok so i got the car to start but it idles pretty rough, i rotated the dizzy all the way clockwise and when i use the timing light the notch is way to the left still... i saw the little metal bracket with the numbers on it and as far as i could tell the numbers go

*---------------12-8-4-0

the * is where the notch is on the tming pulley.. i think that maybe the #1 wire isnt on the right post on the dizzy cap... i am going to have to find it somehow, probably remove the valv cover and turn it manually till the intake valve opens and after it closes ill pop off the dizzy cap and see which post the rotor is pointing at...

any idea what post is #1 in reference to the electrical plug spot on the dizzy?
http://www.miamimarina.com/images/products/808483t3.jpg

thats what mine looks like, wth that squared portion..

could someone look at theirs and then open this one with paint and circle in red the post that i should be starting on? that would be the best!!!!!!


thanks guys!!!

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

I think I need to put the crack pipe down,lol. Sellmanb called it right. The pointer to the left of the 0 mark is retarded. Follow Sellmanb's diagram. Number 1 should be on a slight angle on the driver's side and towards the front of the vehicle. If you're concerned about it's placement, just trace that wire back up to the cap and then follow the firing order from there after you use a screwdriver to mark #1's location on the cap.

darkecho

could you show me by circling the right post in taht pic? the only reference point i have is that square base part where the electrical connections plug in, or the screws...the whole thing rotates and i have rotated a lot so i know that the post isnt the same as yours.. i need reference to the actuall cap itself...
lolwow this sucks i think im gona have to do it the hard way with the valves or compression or something...

anyone have any good tips to find out exactly where the #1 post is supposed to be at?
thanks for the help guys

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

Look, pull the #1 plug out and have a buddy crank the car over while you place your thumb or a finger over the #1 plug hole. When you feel a burst of air hit your finger or thumb, you should be pretty damn close to #1 at T.D.C. Pop the cap off and see what tower the rotor is pointing at. Now use a breaker bar and socket to slowly crank the engine over until the timing mark is pointed at 0. This is T.D.C. and the rotor should be pointing at the tower that represents #1 plug and wire. If the rotor is off by a tooth, pull the Distributor back out and correct it. Then mark the tower that is now #1 by scribing it with a screwdriver. Follow your manual's firing order, making sure all the plug wires are on the cap right. Then fire it up and reset your timing again as described earlier. Let us know how it goes.

sellmanb

dark echo.


You have to unplug your EST connector to set your timing. This will set the SES light, but dont worry, you can pull the negative terminal on the battery for a minute and whipe out the code.

The EST connector is the 3 prong connector at the base of the distributor. What it does is advances the timing. With it connected you wont get an accurate timing at idle.



When you look at the timing, and see that the timing is off so much, keep looking at the timing, but move the distributor counter clockwise (IIRC?) or whatever way to get it right on.

Dont worry about it being running at the time because the spark plug boots and such wont zap you (trust me, I was really scared about doing it my first time lol).

Even if you are one terminal off the entire way around, you can turn the distributor back and forth the whole 360* (basically) until you get it right.



Good luck and report back!

darkecho

here are some pix... i put in my compression guage and rotated the crank by hand with a socket until i saw the pressure click up... then i remove the guage and inserted a little tool that i was able to tel when the piston went up and down, i got it pretty close to TDC and took of the dizzy cap... here is a picture
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/upload...echo/rotor.JPG

then i put on the cap to see which it would be... here is a picture, it is pointed out in red.. this is with the distributor rotated all teh way clockwise righty tighty
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/upload...kecho/cap2.JPG

and the pronged thing you are talking about, is that the one with the blue arrow or the green arrow? i thought i was supposed to disconnect a wire on the passenger side, the brown and tan wire... i even think the service manual mentions it too... are you sure i have to disconnect the dizzy? last time i tried that the car woudlnt start at all...

THANKS!!!!!!!!

darkecho

ok im not making any progress here guys...

tonight i went out there and did the compresison thing... crank ove rhte engine by hand wait til compression guage moves, take out compression guage, stick a tool in there to feel the piston, got it to TDC, remove the dizzy cap and saw the rotor pointing towards the battery, so i mark the dizzy and put it back on put the wires all back on made sure everything was nice and tight, rotate the dizzy to all the way clockwise and try to start up...nothing....adjust the dizzy, try to start...nothing... this goes on for about ten minutes until finally........ the throttle body explodes into a ball of fire... i jumped out and smothered it with a shirt and was like "the hell?!" then i rotated the dizzy again and noticed a clicking sound, then a couple more times and i saw that every time i rotated the dizzy a certain way, the injectors sprayed fuel.... so im like uhhhh.... so i figure thers a short somewhere or somthing so i undo all the plugs and twist the cap again, this time i get shocked, current ran through my arm down my chest out the other hand on the radiator- i jumped 5 feet and curse the car and thats the end of tonights camaro-session


any ideas why the injectors spray and i hear a clicking sound... i think i know why...

when i was looking earlier, the rotor doesnt rotate with the rest o the distrubutor assembly.. so the rotor was probably close to hitting a dizzy post and when i rotated it, my hand was touching that particular dizzy post and the current shot through me... i disconected the dizzy from the coil and when i rotated the dizzy, the coil shocked a nearby spark plug...

some weird stuff guys.. i dont know where to go from here, do i have a short on my hands? i just want this damn thing to run again!!!!!

the sad part is i think that i had the wires right in the first place but now i have no clue.

sellmanb

I hope that was a pun... funny either way.


You had all the spark plugs on their posts all the way and still got shocked? That's not a good sign... it's never happened to me.


You dont have to take the rotor off to do this. By taking out the rotor it is possible that you put it back in backwards.


When fire spits out of the carb/tbi unit it typically means that your timing is way off... possibly even 180* out...

This is how I'd suggest setting your timing.


do what you are doing with the compression gauge, and checking for TDC and setting it to 0* base. Take out your distributor, put the rotor to the positon approximately where the #1 post should be (It shouldnt matter which direction the square end is facing as long as the post is approximately where it should be (at ~4:30 [like in a clock]) if facing from the balancer (see the picture above).


get a flashlight and a long flathead screwdriver and move the oil pump driveshaft (there's the top of the driveshaft if you look in the hole) and stab the distributor and mess with the driveshaft until you get it "good enough" hehe. If when you turn it over, it hiccups fire or whatever, turn the distributor around 180*. Then try it again.


Good luck, hope tommorow isnt as painful lol.

darkecho

the boots were all off, i was looking for a spark or somthing where a short might be. so it made sense why it shocked me, it probably was lining up with the rotor when i twisted the dizzy cap.

A. Does the dizzy sparking have anything to do with the injectors sparking? i remember a plastic tab breaking off of the coil packs electrical plugs... maybe its shorting or somthing..


ok i kind of understand the first part of your thing on timing

1. i need to get cylinder 1 to TDC again
2. i need to take OUT the entire distributor and put it back in with the rotor pointing at 4:30 once i have the #1 cylinder at TDC..

this will get me set to "0* base" ?

ok so this next part about stabbing the distributor.. i dont get the whole logic behind this? was this supposed to be funny? i dont think i have ever heard any service manual say "now take a screw driver and stab the distributor until its about right"

what does the whole second part mean? is it necessary? i dont know what i am trying to acheive with the second section..

once i have everything done, then i put the cap back on the distributor and put the plugwire onto the 4:30 post? the one the rotor is pointing at?


please tell me this night mare will be over soon!!!! i just want the car to stop burping out flames and start!

sellmanb

My bad.... stabbing the distributor is actually supposed to mean taking the distributor out of it's hole, aligning the oil pump driveshaft so the distributor will seat in the proper location and then put the distributor back into the motor (and when you do that you'll notice how it's LIKE stabbing something ) .


Here's another way of doing the timing. I actually just read this today and like his way a heck of a lot more than mine.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=316262


Yeah, with all the plug wire boots off, it's no wonder it zapped you lol.

darkecho

whats the groove and pointer? and how do i know when its at 0*?
thank you so much i think that this step will be the end of my problems with the ignition!! its all smooth sailing (sorta) from here if i can just get the timing and wires all sorted out

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

Let's try this again.

1. Move the crank until the indented line on the Balancer points
to the 0 mark on your timing tab. The indented line on the
balancer is considered the pointer.

2. Pop the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing.

3. Unbolt the Distributor and turn it until the rotor is pointing at
the 4:30 position when the Distributor is engaging the oil
pump shaft and ready to be bolted back down.

4. If you have a problem getting the rotor to point where you
want, use a screwdriver to adjust the oil pump shaft until
you can get the rotor to point at the 4:30 position.

5. Put your wires back on in the correct firing order, but make
sure number 1 plug wire is on the 4:30 tower.

6. Start the car and adjust your timing with brown wire, your
E.S.T. disconnected.

7. Using your timing light, set the timing to 0 and lock the
Distributor down.

8. Shut the car down and reconnect the tan wire for the E.S.T.

9. If the car backfired or wouldn't start, pull the cap back off
and unbolt the Distributor again and pull it up enough to flip
it so the rotor is pointing in the opposite direction.

10. Follow steps 4-8 and see what happens.

One way or another, this car is gonna start! Lol, even if it kills us all.

darkecho

is the balancer the "timing pulley"? and the pointer is the line on that pulley? THANKS i think im going to skip work early and go home and fix this thing!

darkecho

ok so i went home, i did some stuff along the lines of your thing but i am going to combine your instructions with another persons..

1. crank engine manually
2. wait/for compression by watching compression guage
3. once compression is acheived take out guage and replace with spark plug
4. take off dizzy cap and pull out distributor shaft
5. while holding dizzy, rotate rotor till it is at a 45* angle between 6 and 3 o clock..
6. use screwdriver to align receiving cylinder at bottom of the hole that the dizzy came out of so that it will accept the dizzy shaft. (is that little cylinder supposed to be wobbly?)
7. slide the shaft back in so that the it will mate back up
8. put dizzy cap back on and since the cap rotates 360 degrees, i dont think it matters what post the #1 plug goes on but for timing purposes, the plug should go on the post that the rotor is pointin towards...

now u are supposed to try starting with the EST disconected and get it fired up right?


i am starting the whole process over, i have the compression guage in the spark plug hole and im cranking the engine over manually....

am i on the right track?

sellmanb

Yes. Once you get the #1 piston to it's TDC, and at 0* wherever your rotor is pointing will be where your #1 terminal will be. Then put the spark plug wires in the proper firing order from there Sounds like you're gunna get it this time

darkecho

ok so what is the point in moving the rotor when i can just put the #1 wire on whatever post the rotor is pointing to?

Apeiron

It just makes it easier to find the #1 terminal next time.

darkecho

so the whole thing with making the rotor match the cap isnt necessary? just tell me it isnt PLEASE lolol

so if i really wanted to, i couldjust position the rotor so it is pointing directly towards me if i am facing the firewall so that i know that the #1 plug wire goes on the post that is directly "down" when im facing the dizzy from the front of the car..

am i right? the timing is just a minute change of how much sooner or later the rotor hits the post?

so for instance, the rotor rotates clockwise, and i rotate the distributor clockwise about a half inch, that just means that the rotor will hit it a half inch sooner when the cylinder is on its compression stroke?!!?! RIGHT?!


hahah i just felt that "click" in my brain :-D i think im gona be ok guys, i think ill be ok hah

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Rotor rotates clockwise.

Rotating the cap clockwise brings the terminal farther away, thus retarding it.

Counterclockwise brings it closer, advances it.

The rotor needs to be #1 on tdc of compression stroke.

-- Joe

darkecho

oops yes i knew that just forgot to type counter.. typo! i really do get it i swear!

Apeiron

Close, timing is just a minute change of how much sooner or later the reluctor wheel on the shaft passes the pickup coil in the distributor body, but that's the idea.

The module only knows it's supposed to fire, it doesn't know which plug is supposed to fire. The relative positions of the rotor and cap determine which plug actually gets the juice at the time.

darkecho

DAMNIT I HATE WHEN U TYPE UP A HUGE POST AND THEN HIT THE BACK BUTTON ON ACCIDENT!!!

ok long story short, camaro is running THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH!

now i need to get the camaro running better, i plan on

gapping plug (what gap is besT?)
replacing/removing catalyc converter (any good way to test if its bad?)
fix and replace the vacuum hoses (they are alll fugged up, any one have a diagram? i dont think mines for my car...


on that note, what model of the camaro had a plain solid hood...no vents? is that right for a 1990 camaro rs 305?

ummm any other ideas of things to do to make the car run as best as possibl?! thanks again you guys the help is greatly appreciated!

um the car smells pretty strongly of gastoo after some run time... oh and the timing was set to about 16* nothing abnormal too obvious or anything... it didnt run too good at 0*( or what i think is 0) but advancing helped that... im thinking that some of these problems will dissapear as son as i get thje plugs gapped right and the vacuum hoses replaced and rerouted... a diagram would be wonderful!!! thanks!

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

Replacing the wires, gapping the plugs and fixing the vacuum hoses would be a great way to start. A new P.C.V. valve, breather element and Air Filter would be nice if you haven't changed those. The hood you have should be pretty flat with a tiny bulge on each side that help define the hood by giving it lines. If that's what you've got, you have the right hood. I don't have a vacuum diagram and probably wouldn't know how to post one if I did,lol. You might be able to download one from the autozone site though. Let us know how she runs after you've got all that other stuff done. I figured you would need to bump the timing some more, but 0 is a good place to start. Can't wait to hear how she's running after a little bit of work. And if the cat was plugged, you'd know because it would glow red after running for a littl bit.

darkecho

yea the timing is at 16* right now any ideas on the cat and vac?

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

If the cat isn't glowing red, then it's probably fine. Hit it a couple of times and see if you hear anything rattling. If you don't, then don't worry about the cat anymore. I tried to find a vacuum diagram, but I was sh** outta luck. Keep checking, maybe somebody else has one they can post.

darkecho

i went ahead today and bought a chiltons manual for the 82-92 camaros so it has vacuum diagrams and stuff....

anything i should check? heres my new list

Vacuum Hoses
Spark Plug Gaps
PCV and EGR???
what else can i check haha? the air filter looks pretty clean...


oh and today i bought some 10w40 oil for it, i forgot to get a filter so ill pick that up tomarrow... is this an alright oil for the engine? i live in cali if it realy makes that big of a difference... i think i shoulld drain and replace the engine oil and filter and tranny oil and filter...


what do you guys say? what kind of timing should i run too