Flip the heads over show the combustion chamber shape.
show the top of the head between the valve springs ( numbers, casting mark etc) show the intake port face.

You'll be well on the way if you can swith to a Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold. Just check the intake to be sure it has not been shaved a lot on the bottom and your good to go. You'll like that intake.

 

I like all the MSD stuff. that new electronic advance distributor is pricey thou. No direct experience.

 

I'm going to say probabily not. I can tell you for sure at vacuum advance for a GM HEI is not going to bolt on that distributor.

 

k here are some more pics

 

K those are TFS " Twisted Wedge heads"
They are good heads. There is an issue with the non stock intake valve angle and valve to piston clearance with a standard flat top piston.

You have to mock up the heads on your motor with the valve train adjusted and measure the valve to piston clearance.
T ensure you have enough clearance between the intake valve and the piston at or near TDC as you rotate the motor.
BY HAND!

This is a must do thingy. Or big time engine damage can resiult if things collide. Do not start this eninge untill you have verified proper valve to piston clearance.

the larger the cam grind the closer the valve gets to the piston top. The TFS site will have teck info and help. You can call them too. this is critical.

See how the intake valve angle is not the same as the exhaust valve angle in the head?

 

yeah i see how they are on a different angle.

how do i see if there is clearance? lay the heads down and turn the motor over til the pistons come and see if they hit the head?

yeah i was told they were trick flow wedge g2 heads. told they are really good heads, got screwed on the intake. now i gotta sell this and buy a new intake.

now i need a new distributor, hey do you think i could take all the parts out of this and put them in the the old distributor i had, or would they even fit?

 

Aww, darn it...but hey...you're still in my book.

 

also i took alook at the torker II not exactly this intake. im gonna try and find out what kind of intake it is so i can sell it.

 

You have to mock up the motor with the heads on and check for valve to piston clearance. Some people use a clay blob on the piston and measure the valve imprint. Bad method.

The "light spring and dial indicator " method is much more exact. Thats what I use. You're going to need the help of an experienced engine builder on this one.
Not something for the novice. Your friends probabily will make it worse too.

You may have to tweek the cam timing ( advance or retard) a little or you may have to change the cam for a different one.

Don;t worry it will run great once its done right.
They re not G2 heads they are Twisted Wedge heads.
G2 heads are conventional 23 degree valve angle heads.
The intake and exhaust valve angle is 23degrees and both are the same that is the stock SB valve angle.

Twisted wedge heads use a modifed valve angle and placement. The intake valve doesn;t even get near to matching the valve relief in the piston. the options with standard valve relief flat op pistons are:
advance or retard the cam in the motor a bit to get more clearance, install a smaller cam ( less valve lift at or near TDC) remove the pistons and have them custom flycut for matching valve reliefs.
or install TFS "twisted wedge pistons with the proper valve reliefs that match your heads.

Sorry this is not a direct bolt on.

 

damn, just wanted to put on a new set of heads to. i aint an expert. but i read other sites that said twisted wedge heads work fine with flat top pistons. but i just moved to ontario, know nobody, and have to find this out quickly.

im not sure what mock means? but im guessin i gotta put in the pushrods and bolt it all in, then turn the motor over to see if the valves hit the pistons?

 

im workin on my car in a basement of a condo, thought it would only be taking off the heads and replacing them. guess not.

i cant take the block out to rip it apart to take out the pistons and replace them.

 

maybe thats what the test is for

but i read on a site. http://www.dallasexportsales.com/DES...-heads-TF.html

half way down. twisted wedge g2 heads will accept standard pistons up to a .490 lift i only got a 467 or 484 i think.

 

The lowest clearance is not necessarily at max lift or TDC, making the light spring and dial indicator thing pretty difficult to do. If that’s what you want to do just basically check a whole range by pushing down on the valve with your finger and start measuring if you find a spot that looks really tight.

There’s nothing wrong with the ‘clay blob’ method, just sprinkle it with some talc or something powdery to keep it from sticking to the valve as you go around.

No, twisted wedge heads came as G1 and G2. G1 were the original heads with 13*I/23*E valve angles and iron valve guides, the G2 heads got 16/18* valve angles with sintered bronze valve guides. They were pretty much completely different heads.

It’s not really as bad as all that… especially with the G2’s. It’s not even as bad as TFS originally listed. In most cases you can get well into the .5xx range with the lifts and moderate durations before you have problems. Of course, if you stick with the published specs then you know you’re safe.

 

here is some basic info on TFS tw heads

In the article it says that they will "bolt on" with cams of 238@.050 duration as tight as 106LSA and .512 lift.

You still have to check and accuratly verify valve to piston cleanance on your motor before starting. There are too many variables like actual piston deck clearance etc etc. To blindly state that these will bolt on your motor with your cam without interferience. Its a matter of checking.
Its all about detail.
But they are good heads. especially with some custom porting.
I would contact TFS and get the straight scoop.

You can plan on doing some mocking up and checking for sure thou. Unless you like bent valves and pushrods LOL

 

peak max lift at the valve has nothing to do with it. The piston is 2/3rds or more down the bore when the intake valve is at max lift. The critical part is when the piston is within 30degrees of TDC coming or going. This when the piston get snuggy with the valves. You're not even real sure what cam you rreally have. What are ya going to "think" when all the pushrods bend.
the actual cam/ valve lift during this critical part is dependant on the rate and shape ( duration, LSA intake C/L and rate of llift of the cam). Your .484" lift can can very well be openening the valve higher than a ".490" cam of unknown valve events. Its just not that simple. Unless you like to do things 3 times over and have a pot of money.
Get someone to help ya with it.

 

You can do a this checking with the engine in the car but how are ya going to get the car out of the basement?....

 

alright so im gonna put some powder on the pistons... and push down on the valves to see if they hit the piston while rotating the engine.

do i push down on the spring?

 

You're going to need hundreds of pounds of force to compress the valvesprings. If you're going to use that method, you'll need to replace them with lightweight checking springs.

 

so i cant check eitherway.

also on the distributor, on my old one, there were 2 plugs that were plugged into the cap of the distributor, but with the msd i have there is nowhere for those to plug in, do i just leave those alone?

 

Those connectors are for the coil. Your stock distributor has the coil in the cap. That MSD distributor you have needs an external coil.

 

where do those wires lead? and do i need to do anything to them? or just leave them how they are and hook up the msd ingition and coil and distributor?

 

the setup i have it

msd distributor 8460
msd ignition 6a
msd blaster 2 coil

are these parts gonna be improvement over my stock setup?

 

Not likely.

Those connectors will go to the MSD box if you use that setup.

 

why would it be an improvement over the stock distributor?

 

why wouldnt it i mean


if itook my old distributor, i put a brand new vacuum advance on it, can i change the internals with MSD ones and it will work better?

which parts would i need to change if i did that?

 

Chances are there's nothing from the MSD distributor that will fit a stock one.

For your engine, there's nothing that the MSD stuff can do that the stock HEI can't.

 

i never meant that exact msd distributor.

but couldnt i find a 4 pin MSD module and put it in my old distributor, and make it work better that way?

 

Yes, as long as something is "wrong" with your old one that it needs to be made "better".

 

ok i caled the guy i bought the cam from. he already knew my question. i said i bought some trick flow aluminum heads and the valves are on an angle, and i wanna know the lift of the cam. he said you wanna know if they are gonna hit, haha i said yes.

he said not a chance.

my cam is Crane Energizer 10052, he believes or maybe even 10072 but he doesnt think so. he thinks its the 10052

so if u guys can look at the specs on crane's site, can you tell me your opinion if they will hit or not.

 

ALSO

would i be better of using the comp cams pro magnum 1.52 roller rockers? or maybe go 1.6's because my cam lift isnt so high? that would bring it up .30 right?

 

You say I'm wrong and that I'm speaking untrue blab. Prove your theory is more sound than the ones I've given. As for not posting anything to help this thread, that's not true either. I presented information that might help the poster if he decides to just get another carb.

 

I hate to tell you this, but I put in both those part numbers and Crane's search engine said it didn't have a match for either of those part numbers. You might want to call that guy back and ask for some specifics.

 

When it comes to piston/valve clearance, going from 1.5x to 1.6x on the cam's lift will only exacerbate any clearance problems that may exist. Unless your guru specifically recommends these higher lift rockers, stick with the stock lifts.

 

alright. here are the pages for the 10052 and the 10072. wasnt hard to find, oh by the way my motor is from a 72 pick up, not original motor from my pontiac trans am.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

 

also you guys are a REALLY big help, thanks for everything. i got a couple more questions, im getting my old distributor back, not sure if its an HEI tho??

but would something like this help out my distributor?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-V8...spagenameZWDVW

cheaper then summit, or should i go with msd? perTronix?

 

If you stick with the part #100052 cam, with its .454 lift on both intake and exhaust, you should not have any clearance problems because even a stock old GM head should be able to clear that.

 

yeah they should fit no problem.


now in concern of my final questions, above, about the distributor tune up kit.

 

If your stock distributor had vacuum advance, that kit should work fine.

 

Proform distributor gear is good stuff in my experience. Buying that kit certainly won't hurt what you already have. But what F-Bird'88 was driving at was getting you to find out if the distributor shaft's bearings were worn out or not. Take it to a mechanic, if nothing else, and ask for his opinion. Usually, if there is wear you can really feel it and see it when doing a look-at.

Other than that, even the aftermarket people like Accell readily admit that the original GM HEI distributors were good stuff and will rev high enough to keep the average guy happy. The Proform gear on eBay will deliver you a good time when installed

 

i think ill purchase that proform stuff. thanks for you help.