Help me build a 383
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Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 169
Likes: 1
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Help me build a 383
Im going to start building a 383 for my next camaro. But im not too sure where to start. Are the 383 rotating kits from summit any good? Or should i piece it together seperatley? Also i cant decide if i should go carburated or injected. Id like to have at least an 11 second car. Thanks.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 0
From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
An 11sec car (11.9) requires sufficent HP about 115-116mph in the traps. In a 3500lb fbody, thats close to 450hp. Thats tough to do with a TPI. It can be accomplished with either a miniram-lt1 type intake or a carb. Is this your daily driver?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 169
Likes: 1
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Nope, defintaely not going to be a daily driver. I actually dont have a camaro yet to put the motor in. And my IROC that i have now im going to leave alone. The car this is going into is going to have a roll cage, street slicks, the whole nine yards. Its going to be a weekend "go out and kick some *** car"
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 0
From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
I am a firm believer in defining an objective. From that objective you learn what your going to need to accomplish with airflow and overall engine rpm.
Lets say that you want mid 11s (to be safe). Something in between 470 and 480 hp should do it and not require you to rev the whee out of it or go with any real big rearend gear.
You should first setup the relationship between the speed you want to see and the engine rpm. If you want to pull 120 in the traps and still keep rpm close to 6000, (this comes down to can the projected displacement make the required hp at the target rpm, and yes a 383 can make 470+ hp below 6000) you will need about 20 mph for every 1000 rpm in top gear. You can do this with a 4.10 rearend and a tall tire, or a 3.73 gear and a normal size (25.5inch tire).
So, say you build it to pull 6200 real hard and shift at 6500. To make hp in a 383 at 6000+, you need a good head (that should be the first major purchase). From there you will be able to tell your cam grinder what your heads can flow and he can match a cam to your gears, weight and your objective.
A set of AFR190s or TFS190s will provide 260+cfm, that should be enough to get you 500hp no problem. Since you really don't need to rev the dickens out of the motor, a lot of the killer parts are not required. I don't see any need for a forged crank. Get forged pistons (the catalog is not available at http://www.srp.com/ right now but they are the most cost effective in many cases) and a set of high quality aftermarket (either 5140 or 4340 forged) rods.
The process of going with a lightweight piston allows you to remove rotating weight without reducing strength.
I really like these type of rods (http://www.catpep.com/Products/images/proracingrod.JPG) bc they use a bolt instead of a bolt/nut. The problem with a 383 stroke, is that most I beam rods are not stroker clearanced like your average Eagle H beam rods. But, H beam rods are extremely heavy.
The fact of the matter is that most of the killer parts are not needed after you remove some weight. Especially if you are really not going to be spinning it more than 6500. If you build it with good (not killer parts) it will still be overbuilt and will probably be around on this earth after u have left.
I got around the problem of using an I beam rod by getting a reduced base circle cam. That allows you to not mess with clearancing the rods. The cam is a little more but it works out about the same. The rods work would run about 40 bucks and reduced base circle cams are normally about 50 bucks more than standard bc.
Now about your original question
. Just about anybody can provide a quality bottom end to meet the requirements defined so far. In fact, good factory parts can accomplish it.
But, i have found that this guy, sells both high quality parts and gives good deals. You might want to e-mail him.
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=dynoflo @msn.com
Man that got long.
[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited October 18, 2001).]
Lets say that you want mid 11s (to be safe). Something in between 470 and 480 hp should do it and not require you to rev the whee out of it or go with any real big rearend gear.
You should first setup the relationship between the speed you want to see and the engine rpm. If you want to pull 120 in the traps and still keep rpm close to 6000, (this comes down to can the projected displacement make the required hp at the target rpm, and yes a 383 can make 470+ hp below 6000) you will need about 20 mph for every 1000 rpm in top gear. You can do this with a 4.10 rearend and a tall tire, or a 3.73 gear and a normal size (25.5inch tire).
So, say you build it to pull 6200 real hard and shift at 6500. To make hp in a 383 at 6000+, you need a good head (that should be the first major purchase). From there you will be able to tell your cam grinder what your heads can flow and he can match a cam to your gears, weight and your objective.
A set of AFR190s or TFS190s will provide 260+cfm, that should be enough to get you 500hp no problem. Since you really don't need to rev the dickens out of the motor, a lot of the killer parts are not required. I don't see any need for a forged crank. Get forged pistons (the catalog is not available at http://www.srp.com/ right now but they are the most cost effective in many cases) and a set of high quality aftermarket (either 5140 or 4340 forged) rods.
The process of going with a lightweight piston allows you to remove rotating weight without reducing strength.
I really like these type of rods (http://www.catpep.com/Products/images/proracingrod.JPG) bc they use a bolt instead of a bolt/nut. The problem with a 383 stroke, is that most I beam rods are not stroker clearanced like your average Eagle H beam rods. But, H beam rods are extremely heavy.
The fact of the matter is that most of the killer parts are not needed after you remove some weight. Especially if you are really not going to be spinning it more than 6500. If you build it with good (not killer parts) it will still be overbuilt and will probably be around on this earth after u have left.
I got around the problem of using an I beam rod by getting a reduced base circle cam. That allows you to not mess with clearancing the rods. The cam is a little more but it works out about the same. The rods work would run about 40 bucks and reduced base circle cams are normally about 50 bucks more than standard bc.
Now about your original question
. Just about anybody can provide a quality bottom end to meet the requirements defined so far. In fact, good factory parts can accomplish it. But, i have found that this guy, sells both high quality parts and gives good deals. You might want to e-mail him.
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=dynoflo @msn.com
Man that got long.
[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited October 18, 2001).]
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Lawrenceville, IL Lawrence
Car: 89 Iroc Z
Engine: Carburated 427 Smallblock
Transmission: 400 Turbo
Scoggin Dickey has stroker kits from relatively inexpensive ones to the higher priced assemblys. Eagle also has stroker kits available that are quality parts as well. Kinda depends on how deep your pockets are! Hope this helps.
Bruce
------------------
"Four on the floor, fifth in the glove compartment"
Bruce
------------------
"Four on the floor, fifth in the glove compartment"
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