Bad oil leak after changing headgasket
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 905
Likes: 42
From: Hamilton Ontario Canada
Car: 1985 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: GForce T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 posi
Bad oil leak after changing headgasket
Basically, the car wasn't running well, and it basically led me to change the head gaskets.
I changed the gaskets, and now I leak oil. After the car is done running and I look under, there is a lot of drippage coming down the bellhousing. It stops after a little while, but it still creates a significant puddle.
AND I smell burning coolant. What the hell did I do wrong?
The car runs 10x better the before BTW. But I'm constantly topping off the two fluids every week. (A quart each)
Any thoughts, besides the crap job I did?
I changed the gaskets, and now I leak oil. After the car is done running and I look under, there is a lot of drippage coming down the bellhousing. It stops after a little while, but it still creates a significant puddle.
AND I smell burning coolant. What the hell did I do wrong?
The car runs 10x better the before BTW. But I'm constantly topping off the two fluids every week. (A quart each)
Any thoughts, besides the crap job I did?
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: illinois
Car: '88 GTA,'85 z28
Engine: L98, LB9
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: sleepy 3.23, hello 3.73
Did you:
A - torque down the heads starting center and moving your way out criss crossing the head bolts.
And
B - check the cylinder and block decks for warpage?
I would love to say that it were simply a valve cover leak (wire stuck underneath or something silly, but since you're losing coolant as well something went wrong with the heads, most likely scinerio B.
A - torque down the heads starting center and moving your way out criss crossing the head bolts.
And
B - check the cylinder and block decks for warpage?
I would love to say that it were simply a valve cover leak (wire stuck underneath or something silly, but since you're losing coolant as well something went wrong with the heads, most likely scinerio B.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
I would suspect rear china wall intake gasket for the oil leak (they like to fall off if a little sealant isnt used to hold them on, at least for me). Maybe distributor gasket.
As for the coolant, where are you smelling it? From under the hood or out the exhaust?
As for the coolant, where are you smelling it? From under the hood or out the exhaust?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 905
Likes: 42
From: Hamilton Ontario Canada
Car: 1985 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: GForce T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 posi
I smell the coolant from inside the car.
I bolted everything up according to spec.
I used a straight edge and feeler gauge when I checked everthing.
I bolted everything up according to spec.
I used a straight edge and feeler gauge when I checked everthing.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Just because you bolt it up correctly doesn't mean that little rubber china wall gasket can fall off when you put the intake on. Reach back there and see if you can feel it.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
No offense, but in this case it seems to be an installation error. I have no doubt that you torqed everything to spec, and in proper order...
just trying to help out... and it seems as though the intake "gasket" didnt settle right. i've found that to get the RTV to cure correctly w/o any leaks that you really need to clean the heck out of the contacting surfaces (I clean it out and then use rubbing alcohol). And even then, when you are putting the intake on before you bolt it up, it is possible to smear it just enough that it will create a small valley without RTV that will let the coolant, or oil seap through.
This is why if you CAN use an intake gasket, it is a good idea.
just trying to help out... and it seems as though the intake "gasket" didnt settle right. i've found that to get the RTV to cure correctly w/o any leaks that you really need to clean the heck out of the contacting surfaces (I clean it out and then use rubbing alcohol). And even then, when you are putting the intake on before you bolt it up, it is possible to smear it just enough that it will create a small valley without RTV that will let the coolant, or oil seap through.
This is why if you CAN use an intake gasket, it is a good idea.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I've also been told numerous times to let the RTV dry some before installing - not a complete dry, but let the bead dull over before installation - whether you use a gasket or not.
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