It will cost more than twice that much just to ship a complete LT1 from the US to his location. Think Alaska, only remote and uninhabited.

 

Exactly

Were populated, somewhat... lol

Ill be in calgary and lethbridge in 2 weeks, ill have a look around there. Maybe i can pick up a LS1 fairly cheap and store it at my dads house down there for a while.



Damn all of you!

Now your making me want to go back to crappy carbs lol

 

And the circle begins again

 

LMAO!!

If it's any constitution, I was kinda in your same position a few yars back. I did'nt ask as many questions and change my mind as much, just did a ton of research on many different routes and started making my own descions on what I wanted.

First thing is setting a goal for the car, you need to have a clear vision of EXACTLY what you want from it and want it to do. After that, it's all gravy. Then once you make your first purchase, just run with it. I have a buddy that cant make a descion to save his life, constantly procrastinating...took him 4 yrears, and $6K to build a motor that only runs low 12's Biggest thing, and no disrespect, we'd offer suggestions on what would work, then at the last minute he'd talk to some duffus and those ideas were fresh in his mind so he'd buy this or that...ended up with a bunch of really nice parts, but none of them work together.

Before asking about combinations, ask yourself the true intention you want, then put on the tunnel vision goggles and start marching forward, otherwise your going to continue this constant circle and I'll guaruntee you wont reach your goal which will really bum you out in the end cuz you'll be back and forth trying to build 10 different motor combinations, wasting alot of everybodies time and a whiole lot of your money. Do your own homework, and lots of it, the net is FULL of many different combinations and just take cues from what parts seem to be constant among them and pretty soon it'll all start coming together. After doing enough research you'll start to see who knows what their talking about and who are wanna be's, and that will also hjelp with your descions.

Not busting your ballz, but after awhile all these guys are gonna just flat give up on ya with this back and forth business.

 

Well like i said up a few posts ago or maybe in the other thread, i want to be able to safely say i put 350HP to the ground. So ill revery to one of my previous combos with a few tweaks from some of the suggestions that were made.

Heads: AFRs pair $1500
Piston/ring kit $240
Carb: Holley 4150 double pumper 750cfm $500
Intake: edel RPM air gap $200
Roller Cam: Comp XE282HR $250
Retro lifters: Comp $420
Rods: Comp $30
Roller Rockers: $266
SFC: Jegs bolt ons $180
Dizzy: Might keep my stock HEI
TC: around 2-2200RPM undecided still, lets say $400

Which once again puts me in the $4000us range

Now for the cam and TC combo, im really lost here as i havent drove anything other than a stock TC. So its really hard for me to grasp how this thing is going to work with a 2500+RPM stall, TH-350 and 4.11s out back. Maybe ill drop the cam down a bit...

 

You should be able to do that easily with this combo. With decent heads (sportsman 200cc, not as good as afr's) I put down 350hp/348tq with the same cam, single plane efi, through a tremec tko and a 9".

Also, get subframes that were designed to be welded in.

 

a generic rule for convertor to cam is this, -and it is not in concrete just a generic formula so to speak to give you an idea of what works best.

22? duration cam = 2200-2800 stall

23? duration = 3000+ stall

24? =4000 stall

Very broad and bland, but gives you an idea.

Convertors are the big mistical item on this board and many others. We'll use mine for example, it's rated at 4600 stall speed. In reality the added torque my motor had, the convertor actually flashed to 5100rpm from a dead stop on the starting line to WOT throttle, which equates to mashing the throttle, the tach needle going upto 5100rpm and staying there until slippage is overcome and vehicle speed "catches up" then the tach starts to rise again.

In town/street driving it acts like a normal torque convertor, in gear I'm idleing at 850 rpm, when I pull away from a stoplight tach will go to 12-1500rpm and car starts to move. stall rating is what it will flash to, not what it goes to before car moves. These characteristics arre typical of the 9.5"-10" street strip convertors

When venturing off into the 8" race convertor territory it's another ball game since these will exhibit much more low end slippage since basically they are purpose built for one thing, lowering rotating mass to aid in speed and effeincy of the drivetrain. These are the convertors that will tach higher rpms before vehicle starts to move. our truck for example has roughly the same motor-more/less as mine, but uses an 8" race convertor. The truck will tach 2K easily before it budges.

I ran a 3600 10" stall for 2 years on the street, excellent daily driver characteristics, only difference it would flash higher than a stock unit putting motor into powerband on the hit instead of working up to the power band....convertors are VERY important and MANY people take them for granted due to price of good units, but they're spendy for a reason-THEY are what lets all that raw power go through and determines how it gets put to the tires. and like I said before, you could put a 500hp motor in a otherwise stock set-up car and get your *** handed to you by a 250hp car that uses the power it has effeicently.

 

ok, so if i keep that cam and go with say even a 3000RPM stall the car will drive like its got the stock TC, still able to cruise at 1250-1500 RPM except when i mash the pedal off the line?

Doesnt sound too bad then, i was thinking somewhere along the lines of this big beast not moving till 2000RPM lol


Now im lost looking up the specific TC

I believe this one would bolt up and be the best choice for that cam.

TCI P#241000 -1965-91 GM TH350, 400 with dual pattern, 3000-3400RPM stall

What about a Jegs TC #60403? Anyone bother running these, Like you said you pay less you get less. its about 1/2 the cost of the TCI unit.

 

just to monkey with your #'s...
an edel performer RPM, tried and true, awesome manifold is ~$230, plain (not clear coated)
and an Air gap RPM is ~$330.
your EPS manifold should be ok, you wouldn't get a huge gain from spending another $300 there....
you mentioned before, you won't be seeing north of 6k rpm, since you want to keep your rotating assembly together, well an aftermarket ignition really sees it's best part at the very high end, so the lower RPMS, where your car will live, won't benefit much from a fancy schmancy ignition system.


since this may or may not help you, I was PM'ing IHI re: solid flat tappet cams, and their use on the street. From what i've heard before, solid cams are basically race only, but I have a cousin with a pure street mustang 5.0L that runs 12's, and he has a custom ground solid flat tappet, and loves it. a stud girdle can help keep them from becoming un-adjusted as quick, and helps high RPM stability as well....

anyway, just something you may want to consider..... since we're speaking of this now I consider a .621 lift cam to be the largest cam i've ever seen, ("only .621 lift"....riiiight...), but comp cams makes streetable solid cams, 268S for example....comparable to the XE268.....?
now, I was considering a lunati voodoo 268 cam, as it's got slightly better numbers then the comp xe268, but how would a solid version (comp 268S) compare to either? more upper RPM stability? more high RPM power? same down low?
This is kinda high jacking your thread, but I think we have a common goal here, most power for least money for a STREET car, so I think this info can help us both

oh yea, and price wise, a solid flat tappet is about $250 for cam and lifters, compared to $200 for hydraulic flat tappet. add on a stud girdle for $130 say, and you're still below roller pricing.

 

Right now im thinking ill just blow the extra dough on retro roller lifters and go with a complete roller setup. The solid cams dont look bad either but like IHI was saying earlier in this thread youve gotta keep a close eye on the lash.

I think the hydraulic roller setup would be better for me as its kindof just a bolt on and forget about it thing, and i would hate to keep thinking to myself "should i check the lash" just doesnt seem fun to me

 

Only time you will need to check inital lash is when it first fires up and gets going through the heat cycles, after everything is seasoned they will be fine.

and you dont need to constantly check them, solid anything will let you know when they need attention, casue they'll start chattering on ya. With GOOD parts including a girdle, and setting lash TIGHT you'll go along time without needing adjustiment.

If your going hyd roller, definately get the rev kit, even though your only going to 6K, it will help.

The 10" jegs units peform great and are very consistant...TCI produces them just tags um differently. Ran my 3500+ stall for $189 at that time and won alot of races at the tracks and drove great on the street.

SBC stud girdles are not that expensive, so long as they are spring loaded and use bolt-NOT u bolts-they serve the same purpose, so why dump $130+ for Comp brand girdle, when the BTE unit like I run for $59 does the same exact thing. Unless your talking about girdle and taller poly locks combined, but even at that through BTE it;s still under a $100.

 

I still think it will be cheaper for you to find a roller shortblock, than compared to getting a whole retrofitting set.

Plus, if you are dead set on using your other block to make the 383 on, you can always keep that motor on a stand. The cranks you'd have to buy different ones anyways, the rods you can buy new ones for because those will transfer over. The pistons i'd get some hypereutectic, just so you dont spin bearings and ruin those forged rods, or throw a rod out the block, or through the heads that you paid dearly for. But that whole throwing rods bit I think has more to do with your bolts than anything

 

Like I said, with that XE284 cam, you're going to want at LEAST a 3200 stall. 2000-2200rpm won't cut it with that cam.