How do I remove the oxygen sensor? It won't come out of the exhaust pipe, tried heating it up, in my gay *** book all it says is, carefully back it out, how the Fruck am I suppose to carefully back it out. Fing A i am so pissed at my stupid car.

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un4givin89



[This message has been edited by un4givin89 (edited November 24, 2001).]

 

They sell a O2 socket that you can put over the O2 sensor that makes it alot easier to break free.

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1989 Iroc-Z 5.7 350, Blue, T-Tops

Lightly Moded:
Edelbrock Headers, Rebuilt B&M 700R-4 Tranny, Higher Stall Torque Converter, Airfoil, 3.4 w\posi, K&N's, Ported & Polished Plenum
-- Blue LED Bakelite Dash & Climate Control
- I am just some 17 Year old spending every dollar I make on my car.

 

Penetrating oil! Lots and lots and lots of it, let it soak in for a day, do it again, yatta yatta.

Now, once it's been penetrated nicely (heh, heh..) there's a couple of options on how to get the thing out. You could buy an oxygen sensor socket, which basically is a regular socket that's missing a side so you can have room for the wire. This is good for putting the new one back in. Unfortunately, these sockets can slip more easily than a standard socket, so.. you have to be careful there. You could just get a regular socket and cut the wire off the o2 sensor, but then you're pretty committed to getting it changed out then. heh. And I've also heard of people taking a standard box wrench and going at it from the bottom of the car with a cheater bar.

 

Has anyone tried using a crows foot? I was thinking about that the other day.

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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.

 

let the car run until the ehxaust manifold is hotter than hell, try it then, just don't burn youself. If it still won't come out, grab a blow torch and heat the bung that the sensor screws into. Get it glowing, and then try, that should do it.
I use the O2 sockets, its just easier.

 

just cut the top down enough untill you can slip a deep socket over it, then get a ratchet and a pipe, any length will add torque

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90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player,autometer phantom gauges, soon to have 91-92 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, all new suspension, and new inteior

 

Just take the manifolds off and put headers on with a new O2 sensor.... ok, so that's not realistic. Just try one of the methods above. Make sure you call it a bitch too... that always works. Yell at it.

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1986 Trans AM
355 TPI
4 Wheel Disc Brakes
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
6" rods, approx. 9.7:1 Compression, Stock TPI (soon to be ported), 24#/hr LTI injectors (cleaned and flowmatched by Cruizin Performance), Hedman Shorty Headers, 3" exhaust with 80 series flowmaster, SBC 993 heads completely redone and modified for 1.6 RR, 1.52 RR (for now), Comp Cams XE262-14 TPI Cam, Holley AFPR, TPIS airfoil, MSD wires, MSD 6-AL Ignition, Hypertech 53,000 volt coil.

Track times to come.

 

I cut mine off at the pigtail. Then used a standard 22mm socket with a breaker bar.
Getting a new one back in was the bitch. I couldnt find an o2 socket, I just used vice grips, and was careful not to destroy the sensor. Put some copperslip or similar grease on the threads (DONT get any inside the sensor itself) and put it in when the exhaust pipe is hot. It will go in much easier.

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Smeg
89 GTA 5.7 TPI

 

got it with while the engine was cold with pentrating oil!! Car is runnign strong now, thanks guys.