Oil change for move north. Please Help Fast, moving in a week
Oil change for move north. Please Help Fast, moving in a week
I own a 1992 firebird, with the 3.1L V6. It has 123,000 miles on it, and I have been running 20/50 racing oil in it. Currently 90% of my driving is highway miles in southern Texas, but I'm going to move to Dayton, Ohio on a job transfer. It gets very cold in Ohio, at least compared to my South Texas standards of temperature. Does anyone think It could hurt my engine if I switch to a 5/30, or perhaps a 10/30. What about 10/40? All suggestions will be appreciated, well except leaving the car behind. By the way, the car will be moved on a trailer, I will not drive it to Dayton.
thanks,
Craig C.
thanks,
Craig C.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Just make sure not to go with thick oil that cold weather won't help it loosen up, I use 10W30 and go to college in Western MD, close to WISP if anyone knows where that is.
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2 Tickets to game= $250
Gas= $20
Sitting 20ft. from MJ= Priceless
'86 IROC T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK HEADERS Hooker CatBack
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite
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2 Tickets to game= $250
Gas= $20
Sitting 20ft. from MJ= Priceless
'86 IROC T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK HEADERS Hooker CatBack
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Other than the actual viscosity, a major difference between a 5W and 10W oil is that the 5W has to be able to pour at -20 degrees F, while the 10W (or any other rating above that) does not.
If the car sits outside and the temp gets below -20 at night, that can be an important factor to consider.
However, good ol' synthetics (typically) pour well below -20 regardless of the viscosity rating, and provide better overall protection anyway.
FWIW, the -20 pour point was adopted after the winter of '83-'84, when the midwest experienced over a week of bone-chilling temps that went below -20 every night, with day-time highs below zero. The factories paid for a lot of engines with spun bearings after the owners started them up with gel in the crankcase for oil. A GM rep admitted, though, that they didn't have a single warranty claim on engines that had AMSOIL or Mobil 1 in the crankcase during that cold snap. Rather than finally indorsing synthetics, they just imposed that -20 pour point for 5W oils instead.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
If the car sits outside and the temp gets below -20 at night, that can be an important factor to consider.
However, good ol' synthetics (typically) pour well below -20 regardless of the viscosity rating, and provide better overall protection anyway.
FWIW, the -20 pour point was adopted after the winter of '83-'84, when the midwest experienced over a week of bone-chilling temps that went below -20 every night, with day-time highs below zero. The factories paid for a lot of engines with spun bearings after the owners started them up with gel in the crankcase for oil. A GM rep admitted, though, that they didn't have a single warranty claim on engines that had AMSOIL or Mobil 1 in the crankcase during that cold snap. Rather than finally indorsing synthetics, they just imposed that -20 pour point for 5W oils instead.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by five7kid:
FWIW, the -20 pour point was adopted after the winter of '83-'84, when the midwest experienced over a week of bone-chilling temps that went below -20 every night, with day-time highs below zero. </font>
FWIW, the -20 pour point was adopted after the winter of '83-'84, when the midwest experienced over a week of bone-chilling temps that went below -20 every night, with day-time highs below zero. </font>
We has to wait 3 1/2 - 4 hrs. for my oldest sister to come pick us up.I was gonna suggest that you get the 5W-30 also. It gets very cold here in the Midwest, as well as very HOT!!! Living here is like moving to Alaska in the winter, and then to Florida in the summer.
But you don't have to pack and move.
The drastic weather comes to you.AJ
10W-30 Mobil1 and a block heater will do ya fine. I've started cars at -40C with a block heater(-35C with a manual choke and without a block heater) and haven't had a prob with the 10W-30.
I start pluggung in around -10C(it's been hovering around -15C for the last week here). This makes starting a lot easier, and eliminates the cold idle time(engine goes right to 450 - 500 rpm).
Don't forget the gas line anti-freeze. Coming from a warmer clime, you'll likely pick-up some condensation, which will plug the fuel filter if it freezes.
I start pluggung in around -10C(it's been hovering around -15C for the last week here). This makes starting a lot easier, and eliminates the cold idle time(engine goes right to 450 - 500 rpm).
Don't forget the gas line anti-freeze. Coming from a warmer clime, you'll likely pick-up some condensation, which will plug the fuel filter if it freezes.
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Keyport, WA
Car: 98 Z28
Engine: 346 LS1
Transmission: 6 spd.
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 4.11
Thought I'd post because I used to live in the Northeast and I moved to Florida and I will be moving back to the Northeast in about a week also. I had a 92 3.1L when I lived in northern MD and I always used the 10W30 and never had any problems, but I always kept my car in a garage. I'd just use the synthetic and not forget all the different antifreezes.
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