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Replacing fuel pump, need to worry about anything?

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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 05:26 PM
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MKnight's Avatar
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Replacing fuel pump, need to worry about anything?

Going to be replacing my fuel pump tonight, any tips or things I should be looking for? It seems that it is just a matter of taking the fittings off and then unbolting, bolting up the new one.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 09:07 PM
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five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You have to get the pump arm on the end of the pump rod. The pump rod is facing down-hill and likes to drop down to the adapter plate. When it drops down, you can't get under it to hold it up while you mount the new pump.

Easiest trick is to remove the bolt on the front of the block that is in a bolt hole that goes through to the pump rod. Put in a longer bolt and lightly seat it so it hold up the pump rod. Remove the old pump, install the new one, take out the long bolt and put the original bolt back in.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:06 AM
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Another trick is to remove the rod, coat it with a lob of grease and stick it back in. The grease will keep the rod from sliding out while you're trying to mount the fuel pump.
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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I just found out I don't have the right wrenches for this job. I don't want to strip the fittings and was told that I need a wrench with extra teeth to grab properly.

Last edited by MKnight; Jan 29, 2006 at 03:34 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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Originally posted by MKnight
I just found out I don't have the wright wrenches for this job. I don't want to strip the fittings and was told that I need a wrench with extra teeth to grab properly.
FWIW, I believe Wright Tool is still in business, so you'll only have to contact your local distributor to get the "wright" wrench to remove the line fittings. Or you could use Allen, Armstrong, Crafsman, Crescent, Easco, Matco, Proto, S-K, Snap-On, or several other brands. All you need to ask for is a "flare nut wrench" that should cost you about eight dollars (that's four toonies).
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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From: Ft. Branch, In.
Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
It helps to get the rod on the "low" side of the fuel pump cam also. I use a extending magnetic tool or part grabber they sell at A/Zone to hold the rod while I turn the engine over with a socket on the balancer bolt. When the rod goes up as far as it can, that's the low side. THEN you run the long bolt in to hold the rod.
Let's get it right dudes!!! Vader, I think curtis would be offended.

Last edited by sqzbox; Jan 28, 2006 at 10:39 PM.
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