ok i posted this same question on the TPI board but this gets more traffic so i might delete that one. anyways...

ok im compiling a list of parts im gonna need to swap when i do heads, cam and intake. im talking EVERYTHING here. plus i would like a little advice as well.

ok the setup is LPE 219 cam, AFR 195 heads and a Holley Stealth Ram. ive searched a bit and that seems to be a very nice setup and will make soem good power but the heads and intake will accept a larger cam later on.

ok i need:
heads
intake
cam (already have)
1.6 rockers
cloyes double roller timing chain
upgraded springs from AFR
head gaskets
intake gaskets (what part number?)
5qts oil (i would assume since the cam is a roller cam and it doesnt need a break in, synthetic would be ok?)
i would like to get a 2pc timing cover
assembly lube
head studs (ARP)
loctite

and thats all i can think of. if anyone has anymore suggstions that would be great.

ALSO. what about driving it? the guy that might be doing my custom PROM lives about 20 minutes away from me so it will be driving on a stock L98 SD tune with a stock stall. is that gonna pose a problem? also after the tune, am i gonna be ok with the stock stall and 3.23 gears until i can get some 3.73s and a t56 swapped in?

 

make sure you get the right Cloyes timing chain for factory roller cam blocks. I've given up on head studs since I've had too many leaks. I now use ARP head bolts consistently no problem (make sure you got teflon thread sealant). since you're a '91 TA, are you keeping the serpentine belt set-up?

When I swapped over from factory center-bolt valve-cover heads to after-market perimeter-bolt heads, on the RH (pass) side, for the serpentine A/C mounting bracket, one of the bracket mounting holes didn't line up. I guess the late-model head/bracket holes are different than pre-1987. I had to use a piece of threaded rod to use a different bracket hole under the A/C compressor. I torqued that sucker good. it works. just lucky that GM put an extra hole in their AC serpentine bracket, making it darn-near universal fit.

retaining the A.I.R. pump?

are your AFR 195's center-bolt or perimeter-bolt valve-covers? if old-style perimeter bolt, you will have to do something about the alternator power stud being a bit close, if not in contact with your valve covers, especially since you're running roller rockers, probably with poly-locks. I had to fabricate two brackets, one to extend the alternator further over to the fender, and another bracket to support the rear of the alternator in its' new position.

Are the heads angle-plug? are the spark plugs in the stock locations? you might want to mock it up with your exhaust headers/manifolds before you put it all together to make sure you have adequate spark-plug access and clearance for the spark-plug wire boots. I had to resort to some of the shorter Accel plugs for two of my LH (drivers) side plugs, and replace my SLP shorty header on the RH pass side with a Hooker shorty since my replacement heads were angle-plug. These are ugly discoveries to make at the last minute.

you ought to get new o-rings for your fuel lines where it mates with the fuel lines at the chassis, and also at the front of the manifold, and probably for your injectors just to be safe (unless you're using new injectors). If you're **** about maximizing bolt thread-engagement, nows the time for longer bolts (metric) for your fuel rail retaining bolts. included with your HSR?

gaskets for the throttle body? or new TB? the water passage casting underneath the factory TB was pretty corroded, a couple of the tiny screws broke off. luckily my new TB came with new screws & gaskets.

I didn't see header-or-exhaust manifold gaskets on your shopping list.

I used Mobil1 with my new hyd roller cam and it's fine.

since you're not changing the injectors, you might be able to drive the newly-cammed motor to your chip tuner. maybe. you might want to be using a rich-lean indicator during that drive, and maybe take an extra set of spark plugs with, just in case. I had a custom-chip burned to my motor build-up specs and it ran like crap, couldn't idle at all. That's the biggest reason I got into chip-burning (el-cheapo rock-bottom eBay laptop, TunerPro, DataMaster, Moates Flash-n-burn, etc). couldn't even get it out of the driveway to go down the street with the custom chip.

what about a new thermostat housing (mine was pretty corroded)? 160* lower-temp thermostat at this time? thermostat housing gasket (I like the Fel-Pro plastic one)? radiator hoses? replace water pump (aluminum Edelbrock)?

If you're going with an aftermarket TPI base, be sure to go with the Mr. Gasket slightly-larger-than-stock TPI-runner gaskets, not stock TPI runner gaskets. runner gaskets included with your HSR? I used the Edelbrock TPI base.

do you really need that 2-pc timing cover? for future cam swaps, I guess. If you've got the oil-pan off, maybe have a 1/2" NPT fitting welded on, if you're ever considering going with a supercharger (SC oil drain line). nows the time.

you might want to think about the P/S hoses, if they're due. I used this "opportunity" to fix the PS leaks.