Ok..the info...

new pro rebuild 350 shortblock bored .40 over to a 357.

new pro rebuild heads with new umbrella seals and 3 angle valve job

new stock L98 CAM.

new gaskets.......

put old sensors and other stuff back on

put it all back together and drove it for two days with NO problems. Then the third day...get in and take a 12 mile round trip to daycare fore the kid and the it stalls on me 3 times coming home. park it in the garage and cant make it run again. take about a 3hour break and come back to it and try to start it...it barley runs...take it on the highyway not leting it die...drive down the freeway 3miles with no problem. get to a buddy of mine's place and it runs like crap again....he unplugs the MAF sensor and it runs fine on the "canned" computer program. says it is a bad MAF. Try another friend of mine's MAF of the same year vette...no workie....runs fine without it plugged in...

PLEASE HELP!!!!
do I need to buy another MAF?? at $150-200 I really don't want to.

 

Replace the maf power and burnoff relays about 12 dollars each at any parts store.

What year is the car?

 

Sorry..it is an 89 GTA.

I pulled codes 33 and 34...but they seem to conflict eachother

 

89's are easy they use the same relay for both, ont the firewall by the brake booster there are 3 relays , a square one and 2 oval ones, replace the oval ones. Also check the condition of the wires on the connectors and wrap any bare spots with elec. tape do this to the fuel pump relay as well.

 

/agree with john. If the relay's don't fix it make sure you get the right kind of MAF. If you have the straight type vs. the kind with a 45 degree bend.

 

thanks guys..mine is the straight pipe.

 

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!


it frired right up!!! it was the relays!!!!!! WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!!

you saved me!!!

 

VERY COOL !!!

 

Tryin' to do some searching.......

My '89 IROC has been parked for a long while..... .......just because I went diesel truck crazy!


But gettin' back into the car world. But when I parked the car, it started to have an ackward idle (up then down then up then down, etc.....). I had a code, can't remember the number, but it related to the MAF. I was headed to Columbus, so I got a MAF from either AutoZone or NAPA on the way. Disconnected the battery and everything. Car ran better for awhile then the Service Engine Soon light came back on like it did in the past. I came back home and parked it - last year!

You guys mentioned relays...........is that just for the Firebirds, or is the same on Z's??????

 

Well, cleaned the IAC yesterday and still no luck.

 

4rc, Try replacing the two oval relays on the dr. side firewall, and put some fresh gas in it, also there is a 20 amp fuse on the dr.side radiator support, make sure that is still good.

 

Thanks!!

I'll pick up some relays after work and get them in tonight.

Dumb Question - - - Where is the 20 amp fuse on the rad support???


Note: Last year I did put in new wires, cap , rotor, plugs, etc... So the tune up items should be ok. And there is a fresh tank of 93 in it as well.

 

Another question - what exactly are the two relays for?


I picked up one relay at lunch, and of course, they didn't have two. . So I have to go back after work to get another one, as they are transferring one from another store.

 

Put two relays in tonight. Fired it up and let it warm up. It seemed a little better but then still had a fluctuation in rpms. It was bouncing from around 900-1100, and back and forth.

But I also noticed my volt gauge and looks like bad news for the alternator! I pulled that tonight and will try and get another one tomorrow. Do you think that is a factor in this at all? Just wondering if anyone else had similar troubles.

Also, it seems to have a noticable "bad spot" between 1,500 RPM and 1,650 RPMs. The car will really shake. Below that, it idles fine. Above that, it idles fine. But one thing at a time. Anyone have ideas on this??????

 

Anyone out there??????

 

4rc,
Since your MAF is relatively new I would look away from that for now (don't rule it out though!)
Rough spots at part throttle looks like the throttle position sensor.

What codes are set?

 

Ok, could really use some help now!

Put the new relays in and a new alternator. Really the car seemed to be doing much better. Idle and revs were smooth. I took it for a drive adn then returned home.

Once I got back in the driveway, it still had a small surge in idle, but not really too bad. But, in Park, just rev up the engine to around 1,500, there is a very noticable vibration throughout the car!!

Ever experience that???? Maybe motor mount, harmonic balancer, etc???? The car now revs very smoothly and quick, but hold it at that rpm and she will shake, shake, shake!!!