K, I have done the search, read lots of "don't do it" posts. No one gives a reason other than valve shrouding and what have you. My only question is durability for daily driving. I have a 98' GMC Sierra 4x4 and an 87' Trans Am now (Iroc and Z28 are gone now). I'm pulling the drivetrain out of the TA to drop in a Turbocharged 350ci small block with AFR's. And I would have the 305 block left over, the motor out of my Sierra is the basis of my 350ci FI engine, SCAT crank, H-beam rods, TRW Forged pistons @7.8:1 C/R with 76cc AFR 195 heads. I know the "make more power with a 350" argument, I know it's true. But I am considering putting the 335 kit in this 305 block and dropping back in my pickup, considering I have the block laying around, a new 4x4 xtreme cam (250H), Vortec heads etc. I'm thinking this combination (335, 250H cam, Vortec Heads) would make good low end torque and pulling power which is what I use my pickup for anyway. I'm not looking for a 400+HP motor or anything. Something with good driveability/durability and make good torque. I know a 383 will make more torque but searching around for blocks up here is a PITA and any good ones are WAY overpriced. I do all my assembly work and my fiance's dad owns a machine shop and the machining wouldn't cost anything so price for the build isn't an issue. I could have it all together for under 1K. Anyone think this WON'T make good torque? Won't ever see over 5,000rpm (cam rated to 4800).

 

it will be cheaper to find another 350 block and put it in there. i don't know about you, but i feel my 350 engine in my truck could use more grunt and that 335 would be making 15% less power than it is right now even. I would not bother with the expense or hassle. if your family friend owns a machine shop then finding a local block shouldn't be a hassle at all, i could probably find 200 in the local traders times magazine cheaply enough.

 

oh, and the factory Vortec 305 offered in my truck made 285 ft/lbs and 230HP
and my factory 5.7 made 330 ft/lbs and 255HP. I think the 335 with Vortec heads and 250H cam would make more torque than my factory 5.7

 

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What makes you think a 335 would make 15% less power than a stock engine? He has a few race blocks sitting around but I'm not buying a race block even at discount for a daily driver. All the blocks in the trader up here are crap or over priced. I've looked

 

build the 305. i have built several because some people just gave them to me. i had one with l98 alum. heads carb. tpis cam(.510 lift) 5 speed. heck of alot of fun to drive, great on gas(seriously). it had all the power i need on the street.

 

Thanks. That was my idea with it to. The 335 would make gobs of low end torque combined with that cam. Should get better milage than my factory 5.7 did (my mileage increased when I went to a 4.56 gear from a 3.42 with 33x13.50 tires because it was so much easier to get the boat moving lol). The 350 will be in the TA, going to be an SCCA/Road America car but a/c, drive everyday with over 600rwhp

 

I don't have a problem with running a 305. However, sinking $1000-1200 into a 305 shortblock just doesn't make a lick of sense to me.

Don't think it's going to cost you less than that. The price of the kit is just the beginning. It doesn't include the external balance damper or flexplate. And you need to machine the block to accept the pistons and extra stroke.

If you can't buy and build a 350 for less than what a 334 would cost to put together, you aren't trying hard enough.

(FWIW, my 350 is getting better mileage than my 305 did.)

 

Well maybe you didn't read the entire post but the machine work cost nothing as well as assembly. The only cost is rotating assembly. I install, balance, and machine everything. Pays off to have the ability to do your own work. A RA kit from powerhouse with matched balancer and flexplate is $8xx. A good block around here for a 350ci (roller block) will run you in the $200+ range. But most of them are snagged up already, I've looked. I don't doubt the fact that a 350 can be made to have more power, that is not my question. Why do you think the 5.7 is going in the TA? I'm not looking for 600rwhp like I am in the TA, I'm looking for a reliable motor, makes good low end torque for towing. I already have the block and other parts. I just need a rotating assembly. The 335 should get better mileage than my factory 5.7 for the simple fact that it won't take as much effort from the drivetrain (motor/tranny/rearend) to get the 5600lb 4x4 moving. Another reason I care more about the low end torque than anything else.

 

$800 for a rotating assembly that will require a lot of your time to put together.

$200 for a builder shortblock that will take a lot less of your time to build, and will cost a lot less than $600 to put quality rebuild parts in.

The 350 still makes more sense. But, it's your time & money, so do as you see fit.

($1200 is still conservative, even if you don't "pay" for the machining).

 

five7kid, you know the old saying, you can take a horse to water, but ya can't make them drink it, seems fitting right now.

 

I'm gonna go against the grain and encourage it.Not because I think it's the best or most cost effective idea,because I'm well aware it isn't.But because I'm very curious,and he's willing to spend his $$ to answer my questions.

Now,may I suggest,if your only looking for a daily driver/tow rig,this can be pulled off way cheaper than the powerhouse kit.At the low RPM levels that your looking at,the advantage of a 5.7 rod over the 5.5 400 rod would be minimal.Why not buy one of the cheap stroker cranks,reconditioned 400 rods,and stock 305 pistons?If your machine work is free,that takes the cost disadvantage out of the equation.Just an idea to truly keep it cheap as opposed to paying $800 for 305 parts.My 92 pickup has a 310 in it,but I only have $475 in the whole build,and that's counting the engine itself!It's a great little motor,because it was cheap,and repaced a V6.

Let us know how this all goes down!

 

I would say go for it, but add a set of stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio rockers. You will most definitely have more torque than the stock 5.7L The small bore and long stroke will help you out in that department. Also be sure to clean up the vortec heads and try to get about 9.5:1 compression. I was seriously looking into buildng that exact enigne for my 96 Blazer untill I got started on my 383 kit for my TA. It'll give you more than enough torque and save on gas.

 

I KNOW that building a 350 would make more overall power. It seems like everyone thinks I am doubting this. I have built my fair share of motors. Last one was a 350 with a .060 bore, GM "pink" rods, nodular crank, TRW forged 11.0:1 pistons. Dart II heads, comp cams valve springs with hardened pushrods with guide plates, 1.52 magnum aluminum roller rockers, Lunati Solid Lift cam (.610/.617 236/246 duration), Victor Jr. Intake, blah blah blah. Went 11.97 in my 3500lb Iroc. Was going to put a 250 shot on it but sold it before I could. Shifted the motor at 7200rpm almost every day. Never had a problem. No one ever seems to answer the questions anyone asks about this motor. I didn't ask which was better, I asked what type of power to expect. Lets say I get the 350 block for $200 bucks

new crank (not refinished I would put all new parts)= $150
Factory style rods (cheap route)= $150
std. bore pistons- $100
Bearings (all of them, good ones)-$100 (maybe lest but an est)
Gaskets-$70 (gasket set from mr gasket)
New balancer-$60 (stock replacement)
New flexplate-$60 (same)
rings- $40
And I may be forgetting some minor things but for the most part that's about it. $730 in parts +$200 for block, I am now over the cost of the 335. This is decent parts at a decent price for everything. Again though I don't see this combo making any more torque (maybe HP) than the 335 would. Even speaking with Twister Racing Engine in Orl. Fl (who they say have built a few of these) say they will make awesome torque for such a small engine. My factory 350 made 330 tq, Vortec 305 made 285. 45 ft/lb difference. This is attributed to different cam design, somewhat smaller heads and the smaller bore. Increase the bore a tad, add stroke and even with the same cam it came with and heads, it would more than make up that 45 ft/lb difference. Now add my heads and cam, should easily make up near 400 flywheel tq. And these estimates have been confirmed as being close again by Twister Racing Engines.

Again though, there is no point in arguing the fact which will make more power if you build them up. That's a dumb question. The 350 small block will always be able to make more HP when built correctly. But that wasn't my question. It was stating how much power THIS should make.

Thanks, I will probably have the engine done in the next month or so and once tuned I'll let you know how it goes. Will be different with my injection system and being a big 4x4 on power numbers than if it were in your car with a carb or good efi setup (my efi sucks).

 

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Ya I planned on a set of 1.6 rockers for it, and the compression will be around 9.4:1. My exact thoughts