Fully forged and balanced 350 bored .040"
Eagle 4340 H-beams with ARP hardware
freshly turned ZZ4 forged crank
Speed Pro forged flat tops (approx 9.5:1)
Highly modified and ported Vortec heads (stock valve sizes)
Comp Cams cc305 cam (220/230, .544/.544, 114)
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
Edelbrock 600cfm Carb (weak link in the system?)
Hooker 2055s and catback, no converter
FelPro Gaskets, Clevite 77 bearings (bimetal rod bearings)

Looking around 400hp with a better carb on there
Future nitrous motor, with the forged stuff

I had to clearance grind the block to suit the large ARP bolts in the rod caps.

THOUGHTS? CONCERNS?

 

did you build the shortblock?

what ring gap did you use? (nitrous)
I left mine kinda wide, in case I *ever* wanted to use a little bit of the N20... I figured I can live with a tiny bit of blowby, just in case...

I don't think your 600CFM carb will hold you back *much...*

sounds like it'll be 400HP alright, a blast to drive too!

 

ring gap is .020 on the top and .016 or .018 on the second

 

did you spec that based on nitrous, or NA?
I'm not sure what you *should* have for a nitrous app, but just something to keep in mind.

other then that small concern, sounds good, give yourself a pat on the back, and go start it and drive the ********** out of it!

 

a stock gap should be 4 thousands per inch diameter bore, so minimal of 16 n/a

 

I've built many many engines. I still get nervous the first time I turn the key..... that feeling has never gone away or gotten much better. I'm sure if somebody said "boo!" as I was turning the key I'd need to take a big dent out of the roof of my car.

At some point you gotta see what happens. Turn the key.

P.S.- I'm not sure I would WANT that feeling to go away. Nothing like hearing that baby cry for the first time. Remember, it's a Chevy. It's not made of glass or peanut brittle.

 

These are the speed pro recomendations from the web site Federal-Mogul Web Catalog


. Speed-Pro top rings (ductile iron, 4" bore)
moderate performance .016 - .018 (.004 per inch of bore diameter)
drag racing, oval track .018 - .020 (.0045 per inch of bore diameter)
nitrous oxide - street .020 - .022 (.005 per inch of bore diameter)
nitrous oxide - drag .028 - .030 (.007 per inch of bore diameter)
supercharged .024 - .026 (.006 per inch of bore diameter)


. Speed-Pro 2nd rings (cast iron, 4" bore)
moderate performance .020 - .022 (.005 per inch of bore diameter)
oval track .022 - .024 (.0055 per inch of bore diameter)
nitrous oxide - street .024 - .026 (.006 per inch of bore diameter)
nitrous oxide - drag .028 - .030 (.007 per inch of bore diameter)
supercharged .024 - .026 (.006 per inch of bore diameter)

Notes: Use the chart as a guide to normal ring end gaps. The “ideal” end gap will be somewhat different for each engine.
Piston rings should be file fitted to the desired end gap with the torque plate attached. In worn cylinders, make sure that ring
gaps are checked at bottom of ring travel. In seeking the optimum end gap for your particular engine, choose the proper
application in the chart and gap the rings to the high limit. If the ring’s end surfaces show shiny spots after use, it is evidence
of ring butting. This means that your rings are operating at a higher than average temperature and require additional gap.
If there is no indication of butting, then the end gap can be narrowed until you reach the "ideal" condition. Remember, stay on
the safe side

 

yeah I measured my gaps to the TOP of the cylinder (seeing as the engine isn't freshly bored) so it has a minimal gap of 20 thousandths all around

 

Thanks flirtin! That's good info!

I think I did ~.022 or so on the top, and roughly the same on the 2nd ring. I used a piston, with the 2nd ring in place, in order to push the ring into the bore square, from the top. Then feeler gauged it, and filed some more!

anyway, you've button it up now right Token? No going back, let 'er rip! Be sure to post with your first problem though

 

Reminds me of last week, started my L98 for the first time after my first ever headgasket replacement, did the exhaust at the same time so it was uncapped at the y-pipe. So I'm getting butterflies sitting in the drivers seat about to turn the key, turn it and nothing happens (forgot to connect the battery). So then I'm all calmed down, get back in and turn the key and BOOM it backfires a mean one. Scared the crap out of me, I literally jumped in my seat, turns out my distributor was in 180 off LOL!!! All my neighbors came outside to see what happened.

 

If I had a dime for every time Ive done that

 

 

I got those same valve covers on my L98

 

THE ENGINE STARTED!



But I had to kill it after less than a minute of running due to an extremely leaky intake gasket. Water was getting everywhere. It's the rear drivers side on the manifold. I didn't find out why it was leaking so bad but I will get to the bottom of it. About a quart of water ended up in my fresh oil

 

fyi the engine runs beautifully! I had a bit of an intake leak issue (water) at first, but after that nothing but smooth sailing. The engine will go back into the car thursday (I hope). What a great birthday present for myself

 

Happy Birthday Token !!

Glad everything went smooth and hope she performs like
you want it too !!