ok, so if you've checked any of my other posts I have replaced: IAC valve, Fuel Pump, O2 sensor, MAF sensro, Radiator, Thermostat, Cap, Rotor, plugs, PCV Valve, EGR Valve, and my car still won't idle at a light without smelling rich and stalling after the RPMs drop super low, get really rough, rev up on their own a few times, then stall (just as the light turns green)...
my last Idea is that there is a large vacuum line in my car stuffed with a screw. i know it should not be stuffed with a screw, as I am willing to bet thats not quite factory. This is it's location: it starts in the back of the inatke manifold plenum, about the middle rear, in a 3 way intersection on a damper valve. It then runs along the drivers side edge of the hood, up to the front, that's where mine ends and is.. well.. screwed. from what i have gathered from other camaro resource sights, is that on a 2.8 v6 (my engine) the tube then goes towards the front of the car on the driver's side and hits a T section, where one half of it goes to Cruise control (which I don't have) where does the other half go to? when I remove the screw, I can hear air being sucked in, so where should it go to? I have no idea what else could be causing my compilation of problems with the stalling and whatnot...
when it starts to run low and rough RPMs, (which only happens after 5-10 minutes of driving it, then continues for the rest of the day..) I seem to lose power (light dim, and voltometer drops a bit), and if I'm at those low RPMs when decelerating I basically lose power braking... any ideas??

 

The vacuum line your refering to runs down to a vacuum chamber ..its a round ball looking thing located underneath the battery tray or in front of the LF tire.It supplies an additional amount of vacuum.You might want to check your brake booster...start the engine and let it idle ,press the brake pedal and watch the rpm gauge or feel the engine.If it stumbles or the gauge fluctuates your booster is ready for the junkyard.I was about to sell my car cause it died everytime I came to a stop,rpms would dip twice and that was it...dead.It drove me nuts..

 

the tube that starts here runs to a vacuum chamber? my battery is on the passenger... and if LF tire, where exactly? can you get a picture of it? I'll double check to see if i can find it, I think mine was near the canister and was all hooked up... but yea I'll check the booster too by braking/RPM watch...fricken expensive part goin...check them tomorrow after work.. round 5 ET..

 

do a search for "orb of power", it's affectionately referred to as that.
large softball sized black plastic sphere. You CAN'T miss it.

 

hm... I can't seem to find one in my vehicle... can anyone find me a picture of the tube and where it goes? keep in mind I don't have cruise control.. or power anything (except steering and braking(when it feels like it(which is one of the big problems of this!))) so would it still be in there? I tried pumping the brake with it Idling and I didn't seem to lose RPMs so I'm thankfully thinking that the power brake booster isn't dead, also Just to point out that when it is doing this the car kinda smells exhaust/gasoline fumey...

 

ok heres my professional opinion, i wont dawg this post because this is a very relevant whole heartedly acted problem.

YOur car is running rich, duh! the car stalls, it loaded up with fuel.


anything that will cause it to run lean, take out of the equasion. ie, vacuum leaks, o2 sensor(doesn't affect idle really), low fuel pressure, bad pump...

I think its related to your TPS!

but, there is a rule of thumb when you get parts from Autozone, Advance or oriely, "ALWAYS BLAME THE NEWEST PART!" a rule you should now live by.

Seeing as most the things you repalced could almost never be the problem, disconnect your MAF, disconnecting this will put the car in limp home mode and it will run strictly off the tables in the ECM.

Does she still load up? if not, then your maf is bad.

If so, then well, your IAC could maybe be the problem, very doubtful, but check and make sure its operating.

Check the voltage for your TPS, i will put my dollar on the TPS being faulty.


Remeber your car is running rich, whatever meters air, and when defective measure less air, will not be the problem, more air means running lean, not rich!

I'll also add that a leaky set of fuel injectors could do this as well, so i must ask, you have a subling idle, but at high rpm it will seemingly go away correct? or will it snap crackel and pop? snap crackel and pop is a good sign, no bad leaky injectors. Your engne always wants less fuel at idle, less fuel means no fouled plugs and no load up at idle. More fuel is seemingly ok at high RPm so you wont notice the extra fuel.

If all of these check out, replace your ECM.... If your broek and dont want to buy one if your not sure, go buy one from autozone, but keep your old one, the old one will cost you a core charge, but they wont give you your core back if you return it. So have them order you the replacement, and try it, if it doesn't sold tyhe problem, clean it up 100% and return it saying you didn't need it afterall, dont say you installed it.


After this, you should be running 100%!!!!!!!!