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what would cause loss of power to radio

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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 07:13 AM
  #1  
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what would cause loss of power to radio

...im not going to list the symtoms i am having with my z28, besides a few tha have been botherin me inside my head...

The car has been broken down for 3 weeks, with alot of wierd problems...

However before it broke down...broke down. I did notice some wierd thngs, i want to discuss..

The aftermarket cd player installed... Would just randomly turn off and say goodbye. Then turn itself back on....and cvontinue playing music.. What would cause this..

On top of this during thne same time the engine is acting up making wierd noise's...

The Speedo and tach jump around like crazy

Anyone ever had similar problems ?

Hit me back with anything thanx .. chris
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 07:43 AM
  #2  
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
sounds like a major wiring issue to me...... Who installed the cd player.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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From: Massillon, Ohio
Car: 87 TA
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Axle/Gears: 2.73
The same thingk happened to my JVC stereo on my 91 bird. I never did figure out what it was though...It didn't happen too often for me to worry. and I ended up selling it to fund my 84 about a month later. Now I'm having a stereo issue with my 84. whenever I turn the headlights on, the power is cut to the stereo. Stereo wiring is a common problem with F-bodies I'm seeing...lol.never had a stereo problem in my 87 camaro though.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 11:30 AM
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...

i installed the stereo..

i can only think of one thing after i have been thinking...

i have read some board's about a mysterious fuse near the alternator, im gonna rip it out

But i must admit.... i think its TOTAL POWER LOSS to the Ignition(red wire) and BatTERY (Yellow thicker wire)

for a split second, some how the ignition wire is sending a FAULT to the stereo... anyone follow ??

i could bypass the battery wire and run a fresh wire from the battery, with the proper fuse. that way i would never loose power... and if i did, then it would have to be a ignition problem of some sort....

what would cause that ?
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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Before hacking up your car's wiring and destroying it for all time like everybody else that hacks up their car's wiring in the belief that somehow that's better than fixing whatever they damaged in the first place, stop and think.

Which wire(s) are without power? What does your test light say? The battery wire should have power all the time, and the switched wire should have power only when the key is in Acc or On. Which one(s) lack power?

If the battery wire is dead, look at the "interior lights" fues. If the switched power wire is dead, look at the "radio" fuse.

There's absolutely no point whatsoever in jumping directly to "hack the wiring" before you even find out what's wrong.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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From: Massillon, Ohio
Car: 87 TA
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
I've been told of this "mysterious fuse" near the alt. but I actually don't have a fuse near or even in line with the alt. I've used a multimeter when my stereo loses power, when it happens both my ACC and 12v wires lose power. not completely though, they go down to about 1.5-.5v....
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 11:42 AM
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From: North Central Mass.
Car: 1985 Berlinetta
Engine: Megasquirted TPI
Transmission: Transgo 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
When my s-10 was doing this it was a bad ignition switch.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 12:10 PM
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From: Massillon, Ohio
Car: 87 TA
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
there's an interesting issue....owner before last of my 84 said that the ignition switch went bad so he hooked up a push button start. I just 10 minutes ago thought that may have been an issue so I hooked up the column ignition...worked fine....the car fired right up...but the stereo is still cutting out...
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 12:23 PM
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....

since we're on the topic of The Ignition Switch... might as well ask a question...


I have a remote starter button i rigged up....

i also replaced the ignition switch.. and the ignition switch i just installed didnt fix the "Using the Key to Start The Car" problem, so i still have to fix the problem, where do i look next?

What's between the ignition switch and the starter ?

Anyone know how to test the Fuel Pump Relay ? it's located ont he drivers side firewall ?
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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From: Massillon, Ohio
Car: 87 TA
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Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
are you saying that when you replaced the column ignition switch it didn't work...?
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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lol yeah...

here's the story.. when i bought the car, it would start with the key.. thats great!! he even told me something about connecting a wire or sumthing etc.... i ignored him fro 3 weeks

next couple weeks.. go by and the car wouldnt start i open the hood, and find a wire hanging from the starter and i tap it to the positive on the battery.. that fixed the problem, so i installed a more perminant connection for my remote starter , and i installed a new starter too...

On and off the car would start with the key, so i decided to replace the ignition switch, and after i installed it, it didnt fix the problem at all, i still cant start the car with the key...


im thinking it could be a VATS problem, how could i rule this out..?? But eaither way, my remote starter switch works good for now.. but i can only imagine what the real problem is.. on top of my BIG PROBLEM, which really gets me upsett to think about... But only if i can get the car started, i could see if my BIG problem is fixed after a whole bunch of new random parts... but thats besides he point.. if someone can tell me... If they ever seen the TACH and SPEEDO jump around like crazy while the engine is making the crazy noise's, i could fix my baby
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 12:41 PM
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From: Massillon, Ohio
Car: 87 TA
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
not sure about the tach and speedo problem...but the ignition switch I may be able to help. check the bundle of cable coming through the firewall on the drivers side. find the thick pruple wire and cut a bit of the casing off. hook a multi metter to it and turn the key. when in the "start" position you should be getting 12 volt.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
I have seen a problem before with VATS not allowing the car to start. Found the problem with a relay that is located on the driver side underneath the panel by the door. Had to jump the relay to get the car to start. Hope it helps.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 12:53 PM
  #14  
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From: Massillon, Ohio
Car: 87 TA
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
These are the reasons that I hate VATS. I was lucky enough to have never had a problem with it on my 91 bird...
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 01:01 PM
  #15  
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...

Originally Posted by j dezzy
not sure about the tach and speedo problem...but the ignition switch I may be able to help. check the bundle of cable coming through the firewall on the drivers side. find the thick pruple wire and cut a bit of the casing off. hook a multi metter to it and turn the key. when in the "start" position you should be getting 12 volt.
That would proove, the vats works, and the ignition switch is sending the voltage thru....

wat if my purple wire has no power, it's coming from a plug on the ignition switch.... where is it going...starter??
----------
Originally Posted by ResurrectingZ
I have seen a problem before with VATS not allowing the car to start. Found the problem with a relay that is located on the driver side underneath the panel by the door. Had to jump the relay to get the car to start. Hope it helps.
Is it labeled, you remember more about location or the color wires??

Last edited by xklipze; Jul 26, 2006 at 01:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 01:12 PM
  #16  
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From: Massillon, Ohio
Car: 87 TA
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
the purple wire carries the current from the ignition switch to the starter when you turn the key to "start". I believe it's a yellow wire that supplies the initial power the the switch...and that runs through the nuetral safty selector switch on the gear shift...it could be a problem with the neutral safty switch.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 12:26 PM
  #17  
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Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
I will have to look at it tonight to tell you more on it. It is under the cover below the hood release latch.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 10:41 PM
  #18  
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
check all ground wires. my CD player would shut off sometimes after hunting for the problem I found that a ground wire had a break it it.

also If the car wont start by the ignition switch check to see if the neutral safety switch is working.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 11:56 PM
  #19  
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...

i can check by looking under the center consol... ??

i must admit i drove the car for 2 weeks and i forgot to re install the nuetral saftey switch.. i plugged it in.. then my reverse lights started working again..

any other idea's about the ignition switch not letting the car start ? but a remote starter button does work....
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 03:36 PM
  #20  
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
have you tried using a testlight and check the ignition wire going to the starter. and check a few inches up the wire to see if it has a break in it?

I know getting a hand down there isn't easy. but it would be a good idea to remove the wires from the starter and clean them up a little.

also I have had a problem with the wire harness connecter that goes through the firewall on my car, I removed it and cleaned it good and used a little packet of lightbulb socket grease that I bought from autozone for like $1.
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 09:56 PM
  #21  
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From: Ft Worth, TX
Car: 91 Z28 with 64,000 miles
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The only thing I have ever seen cause all your gauges to jump at the same time is a bad ground. Unfortunately there is no quick way of checking them. Just get a meter and start checking resistance.
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