Vapor Lock......HELP PLZ!!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: BuiLt 350! Hooker 2055's
Transmission: T5-manual trans-centerforce clutch
Vapor Lock......HELP PLZ!!!
ok. first off let me say this has been an ongoing battle and i have searched the boards a lot on the subject.
i have a 84 TA that i swapped a 350 into. ive got hooker 2055 headers under the hood. a pusher elctric inline pump by the tank. the fuel lines are routed far from all heat sources as i can get them. new fuel filter before the pump and in the carb inlet. i added a fuel pressure regulator with a return under the hood and insulated the line going from it to the carb. theres no way i can route the lines any better and even with the regulator with the return, after very little traffic my car will die from vapor lock. it used to take a half hour to start back up. i added a 1 inch carb insulator in hopes of that helping. only difference it has made is after vapor lock it will restart in about 5 minutes. ive considered getting a fuel cooler but i dont see how this will help in traffic situations. i currently drive a company truck to and from work but am trying to get a new job but i cant possibly commute in traffic cause i will vapor lock constantly.
i have covered all bases from all posts ive searched on the subject. i really dont understand why its such a big problem for me when other ppl seem to have good results with just adding a regulator with return.
any input appreciated. really sucks to not be able to drive my car anywhere in traffic or durring rush hour cause i know ill just end up stalling.
i have a 84 TA that i swapped a 350 into. ive got hooker 2055 headers under the hood. a pusher elctric inline pump by the tank. the fuel lines are routed far from all heat sources as i can get them. new fuel filter before the pump and in the carb inlet. i added a fuel pressure regulator with a return under the hood and insulated the line going from it to the carb. theres no way i can route the lines any better and even with the regulator with the return, after very little traffic my car will die from vapor lock. it used to take a half hour to start back up. i added a 1 inch carb insulator in hopes of that helping. only difference it has made is after vapor lock it will restart in about 5 minutes. ive considered getting a fuel cooler but i dont see how this will help in traffic situations. i currently drive a company truck to and from work but am trying to get a new job but i cant possibly commute in traffic cause i will vapor lock constantly.
i have covered all bases from all posts ive searched on the subject. i really dont understand why its such a big problem for me when other ppl seem to have good results with just adding a regulator with return.
any input appreciated. really sucks to not be able to drive my car anywhere in traffic or durring rush hour cause i know ill just end up stalling.
Pusher pumps (from the tank) rarely suffer vapor lock issues. Are you certain pressure from the pump is dropping during the stalling episodes? Or is the pressure from the regulator falling off while pump pressure is still adequate?
True vapor lock usually occurs on the suction side of a pump.
True vapor lock usually occurs on the suction side of a pump.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: BuiLt 350! Hooker 2055's
Transmission: T5-manual trans-centerforce clutch
everytime ive ever started pulling fuel lines when the problem occurs i have fuel going into the regulator. seems like the problem happens at the inlet to the carb. i kinda figured it was all the heat under the hood causeing the problem.
you may be right but as a rule vapor lock is never a problem with electric fuel pump. you might try increasing the line size to allow more fuel if vapor lock is your problem. by any chance have you had the igniton module tested and tested hot?
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