compression test how to
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 7
From: Santa Ana, CA
Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: Lsa
Transmission: M6
Axle/Gears: 9" spooled 3.70
compression test how to
how can I perform a compression test on my 90 iroc. ie what tools are need, how can I make it easier to reach my spark plugs and basic steps so easy an idiot (me) can figure out.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Well Justin, lets start from scratch:
-Why do you want to do a compression test first? We might be able to find your problem an easier/better way
-Are you using headers or the stock exhaust manifolds? ie, why is it hard to get to your plugs? Do you have air conditioning? etc?
Then we can go from there.
-Why do you want to do a compression test first? We might be able to find your problem an easier/better way
-Are you using headers or the stock exhaust manifolds? ie, why is it hard to get to your plugs? Do you have air conditioning? etc?
Then we can go from there.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 7
From: Santa Ana, CA
Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: Lsa
Transmission: M6
Axle/Gears: 9" spooled 3.70
I want make sure everything is right with my engine because the previous owner stated it overheated and is going to need a new head gasket. Im running stock exhaust manifolds with a/c smog pump and all that.
-thanks
-thanks
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
ok.
I've never done a compression test, but from what i've heard:
you remove a spark plug, plug the tester into that hole. Keep a battery charger charging your batter during the test. Disconnect your distributor power, so the car won't start. Put a brick on the gas to hold the throttle blades open. Crank over the car for.. say 5 seconds, check the reading. Wait a few minutes to charge up the battery, do it again. Assuming same or virtually same results, move on. Keep charging that battery.
Within 10% of the same result between cylinders is ok. If your head gasket has failed, you probably have some coolant in your oil. Is it milky, like a chocolate shake?
Not much you can do to make it easier to get to your plugs, but I know what you mean, with air tubes, air conditioning, and all that jazz, it's pretty tight. Some of the members here must have figured out a better way then I did (remove all that unnecessary junk)...
I've never done a compression test, but from what i've heard:
you remove a spark plug, plug the tester into that hole. Keep a battery charger charging your batter during the test. Disconnect your distributor power, so the car won't start. Put a brick on the gas to hold the throttle blades open. Crank over the car for.. say 5 seconds, check the reading. Wait a few minutes to charge up the battery, do it again. Assuming same or virtually same results, move on. Keep charging that battery.
Within 10% of the same result between cylinders is ok. If your head gasket has failed, you probably have some coolant in your oil. Is it milky, like a chocolate shake?
Not much you can do to make it easier to get to your plugs, but I know what you mean, with air tubes, air conditioning, and all that jazz, it's pretty tight. Some of the members here must have figured out a better way then I did (remove all that unnecessary junk)...
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 782
Likes: 0
From: Port Angeles, Wa
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
If you want a totally accurate test you need to remove all the plugs at the same time and test each cylinder with 3-5 revolutions. If you dont remove all plugs it is claimed that you can get pressure from one of the other cylinders and cause faulty readings.
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