Heyguys,

For Christmas I want to get my brother a set of 1.6 rocker arms, and I was wondering if you guys could help me pick some out. His car’s an 83 z28 with a 305 LG4. He has an Edelbrock RPM Intake, Edelbrock Headers/y-pipe, 3in Flowmaster catback, and 14x3 K&N Open Element. What would be a good set of rocker arms to get him?

 

How much you want to spend?

Comp magnum ones are good, roller tips. Good and strong.

Stamped roller tip ones are ok, much cheaper too, summit or proform makes those.

 

Just realise that when switching to a 1.6 rocker the pushrod will run closer to the rocker stud. sometimes on 305 heads the pushrod guide slot in the cylinder head needs to be lenghtened towards the stud to clear the new pushrod position.

Why not get him something that for, less money will really make a performance difference. get him a new Camshaft and lifter set.
Yes, its more work to install, but worth it.

 

I have the 1.52 Magnum roller tipped rockers. Very stout pieces 80 % stronger than stock ( Visard)

 

Hmm I think my bro and I could put a cam in. Is it hard or is it just time consuming? How long do you think it would take to put in?

 

First time effort will take "all day" 6 to 8 hours.
You can do it at home in the garage.
special tools needed : crank balancer remover/installer and a crank timing gear puller . Can borrow from many auto parts stores that have a "lend a tool program"

You'll need a new intake manifold gasket set. new timing chain and gear set too and timing cover gasket and seal.

Summit cam and lifter sets are very economical $69
New timing chain and gear set is like $25
If he has the stock little 305 cam this will make a world of difference. much more than rocker swap.
Do you know the rear gear ratio in your brother's car? I can recomend the right grind for him.
Is he planning a torque converter swap (hi stall) in the near future or stay with the stock converter.

somthing like this cam would be a good choice.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Or maybe a comp cam/lifter set like this one.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Thanks for the info. I believe he has 3:23's. Sometime down the road he plans on getting a higher stall, but not any time soon.

 

Either of the two cam sets would work well then.

 

Good call F-bird, I didn't think outside the box on that one.
With the rest of the mods he has, the cam is a fantastic idea.
The summit one, with all the parts needed to finish the job (all from summit) would be under $120. That's not bad.

 

Ok cool, I am going to go ahead and order him the summit cam kit. Would it be a good idea to replace the valve springs, pushrods, and valve seals while we do the cam swap? Any recomendations for those? I was looking at pushrods but was unsure what length to get. I will also be getting him a couple other things. Let me know if I should add anything to the list.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CLO-C3023

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=FEL-TCS5124-1

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=SUM-G3220

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

 

You'll need valve cover gaskets as well. May want to price it out vs a complete SBC gasket set, I paid $30 for mine, so if all your gaskets come out to more then that then...

You don't need the lock plate, but if you want new bolts for the cam then sure.

Springs and valve seals are a good idea. Look at comp 981's for the springs. Valve seals - look at Felpros positive valve seals. Get two intake setss. I forget the part #'s, but do a search on here to find them, It involves a lot of 7's....

You won't need new pushrods, they're pretty cheap, so if you feel like it, give'r, but definately not needed (unless current ones are bent).

 

Cool I got the gasket set instead of all the individual ones. For the valve seals will we be ok using 2 intake sets? While doing a search I read on some heads it might require machining to use the intake seals on the exhaust.

 

WOW. Talk about being nice to family.... . Wanna join mine.

 

When you do the cam swap be sure to add a can of GM EOS engine oil supplement to the oil Dump it all over the cam and lifters in the motor. You can contimue to run GM EOS even after the initial break in. Its about $7 at any GM dealer and is the only engine oil additive you'll ever need.

The stuff you see advertised on late nite TV (duralube etc etc) only wishes beening this good. This stuff (EOS) is the real-deal. Its real anti scuff-anti wear proven protection for your new cam and your motor in general.
it is the only additive recomended by major cam companys and Major auto manufacturers. Even other than GM.
Be sure to prelube the rockers too.

 

Am I the only one who doesn't know how to get the timing chain
cover off without dropping the oil-pan, so that I have a prayer of
successfully resetting the t-c cover to oil pan seal??

PS f-bird.
Is that EOS stuff any good for the classic gm clacking/sticky
hyd. lifter??

 

I can take off my water pump and get to the cover easily....I dont think you have to drop the pan....but of course I have never done a timing cover swap or had to take it off....so maybe I'm wrong....but I do know that when I take off my water pump I can see it clearly.

 

Don't know that EOS is good for sticky lifters. usually caused by varnish in the lifter or in the lifter bores. Nothing will restore a worn out cam and cupped lifters thou. At that point your to late for any additive to work.

You can get the timing cover off and on by loosening the first few front oil pan bolts out a bit. ( remove the front most two). Then trim the corners off the lower lip of the timing cover so you can slip it back on by forceing the oil pan front down a little to get over the lip. use some gasket sealer on the corners of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan and block.