I have plans on building a 383 Stroker out of a Vortec 350 Block.I have a few questions.

1.Stroker kits have two different rod sizes,5.7 and 6.0 which is better?
2.Using ported/polished vortec heads and say a Edelbrock Air Gap Intake what would be a good cam size for performance/rough idle?
3.What brand would a good set of roller rockers be?
4.Do roller lifters give a big addvantage over standerd lifters?
5.What would be a good carb for a setup like this?
6.What would be a good exaust setup to run for this?
7.Would a stock rear end from a 85 T/A hold up to a stroker?
8.What would be a good size rear end gear for this?

I want as much power as I can get and still be very streetable.Meaning street Driven maybe 2 times a week.

 

Well, that kinda makes #'s 1-8 moot. . .

 

You're basically asking every question there is, and 99% of it is opinion based. I was about to rattle off and give you my opinion answer to 1-8, but geez, the next poster will give a schwack of new ones, and you won't be getting anywhere.
Look at what others have done with 383's, and pay attention to the parts they've used. A 400 HP 383 that's streetable is quite possible to make. Roller lifters go with a roller cam, so choose the cam style you want to go with first.

If it's a vortec block, it came with hydraulic rollers, so if you still have those, then going to an aftermarket replacement hydraulic roller cam is the best idea (best, again, in my opinion).

With your 700R4 (which isn't renowned for its strength behind a stout stroker motor anyway), a 3.42 gear set would work quite nicely. A beefed up 10 bolt should be fine to use for that.

#6 and your signature are definately contradictory, want to delete one and go forward?

6" rods are *slightly* better. The 5.7" rod setup is cheaper, and its not worth the large price increase to go to a 6" rod, since the difference is SO small.

 

A longer rod will:

Provide very good intake and exhaust velocities at low to moderate engine speeds causing the engine to produce good low end torque, mostly due to the higher vacuum at the beginning of the intake cycle.

The faster piston movement away from TDC of the intake stroke provides more displacement under the valve at every point of crank rotation, increasing vacuum. High intake velocities also create a more homogeneous (uniform) air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber. This will produce greater power output due to this effect.

The longer rod will reduce friction within the engine, due to the reduced angle which will place less stress at the thrust surface of the piston during combustion. These rods work well with numerically high gear ratios and lighter vehicles.

For the same total deck height, a longer rod will use a shorter (and therefore lighter) piston, and generally have a safer maximum RPM.

* information provided provided by: http://www.victorylibrary.com

Note: There are also some negatives about going with a long rod, but the benefits out weight them in nearly all applications.


The difference in price between a 5.7 rod 383 and a 6.0 rod 383 is roughly like $50.

I just finished building a 6 inch rod 377ci stroked 350 vortec block (std. bore). This engine was built for a friend. Its going to the chassis dyno this upcoming tuesday, I'll post results on this thread if anyone is interested. Thanks to the long rod and ultra short piston the bob weight was an awesome 1673grams! Here are some pictures of the build:













Also, if anyone is interested in a custom built engine, you can PM or email me. -dan

 

Well yea, and that's all well and good in theory.

Unfortunately the differences are so incredibly minute, and don't kick in until higher RPM, that its not worth it.
The differences like mentioned are great to try to sell rods, but any testing that's been done back to back, shows about a 3HP difference at 7000RPM sorta thing. At least from what i've read. You can do the math using some trig, rod length, stroke, etc, and it'll show that that measly .3" isn't a huge difference.

Its not a ton of cash, and you ARE seeing a gain in performance, but personally I think its hard to justify gains vs cost.

**Summit actually shows some scat rods 5.7 vs 6.0 as being the exact same price. Also, pistons showed being a very close price as well. Perhaps i'm going to just clam up here.