I HAVE BEEN POSTING THE CRAP OUT OF THIS PLACE AND PROBABLY ANNOYING A COUPLE PEOPLE. I HAVE JUST BEEN HAVING A LOT OF PROBLEMS WITH MY IROC. I CANT GET THE IDLE DOWN AND I CANT FIGURE OUT WHY IT KEEPS SURGING BETWEEN 30-35 MPH. I HAVE ALL NEW SENSORS AND HAVE SET EVERYTHING BY THE TECH ARTICLES ON THIS WEBSITE. I HAVE WENT OVER VACUUM LEAKS AND I HAVE NONE. IM STARTING TO THINK IT COULD POSSIBLY BE THE ECM BECAUSE I HAVE STARTED IT AND UNPLUGGED EVERY SENSOR AND IT DIES WHEN I UNPLUGG THE MASS AIR FLOW BUT WHEN I START IT BACK UP I CANT GET IT TO KICK ANY CODES.(SES LIGHT NEVER TURNS ON NO MATTER HOW BAD IT IS RUNNING.) COULD THIS BE MY ECM? IS THERE ANYWAY TO TEST MY ECM? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANX JOE

 

We all know what it's like to have gremlins in a car, only typing in all caps is annoying.
If you never get any codes, then i'd say your ECM may have a problem. You might be able to nab one from a car at the JY or borrow one from someone... It'd be easier/cheaper than buying a new one.

 

With KeyOnEngineOff the SES light should be on (bulb Test) and go out when the engine is started.

If it fails the bulb test:
Check the Gages fuse
If it's good then you'll have to bypass the ECM to test the bulb because the ECM turns the bulb on via an internal solid state switch to ground.

To manually test the bulb disconnect the ECM.

With the KOnEOff ground the Brn/Wht wire of the smaller of the 2 black ECM connectors, the bulb should light, indicating that the ECM is dead.

If it still doesn't light then replace bulb, and ground the Brn/Wht wire again

If it still doesn't light start checking for circuit wiring discontinuity.

Once the circuit is repaired reconnect the ECM and use the KOnEOff to test the bulb, no light indicates the ECM is dead.

 

Thanks for the replies guys,Joe