New Crankshaft?
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LSX (swapping)
Transmission: 4L60E (swapping)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi 10 Bolt
New Crankshaft?
Anywho, me and some other classmates were ripping my engine apart at school for an assignment, and while putting it back together, we put in one connecting rod / piston assembly and forgot to watch where the end was going. Of course the stud on the end of the connecting rod was touching the crank journal and when we tapped in the piston it dented the journal up a bit. I asked my instructor what I could do to solve this dilemna, and he said to lightly file down the high spots of the dings, and it should be alright. I don't know if I trust him on this one or not. I know crankshaft journal clearances are tight, and will the low spots of the ding have any adverse affects if I assemble it again? Will filing the high spots off be alright? Or should I go for a new crank to be safe. I don't have much money to buy a new crank with, but then again I don't want to assemble the motor and get it back in the car and have it seize up on me. Any thoughts?
Re: New Crankshaft?
A file would not be my first choice, but the idea is right. The area can be stoned flat to knock down the high spots), then washed and lightly polished. If the ding is at or near the center of a bearing shell, it should make almost no difference. Full grooved bearings don't make 100% contanct, so one little valley holding extra oil is not going to be a serious problem so long as the engine and oil remain clean. It debris is allowed to settle into a pocket in a journal, it could be a disaster for the crank.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 807
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LSX (swapping)
Transmission: 4L60E (swapping)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi 10 Bolt
Re: New Crankshaft?
Yeah the ding is pretty small and near the center. Why use a stone versus a file (curiosity).
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: New Crankshaft?
The crank is case hardened, there's a good chance it's harder than the file actually. But I think mostly because the file is big and clumsy and... well, clumsy. A stone would be a bit more delicate. If it's a small ding, just try to polish it out with 400grit wet, you don't want to scratch the crap out of it with a grinding rock.
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Re: New Crankshaft?
yea, i would try and get in there with some pretty fine sand paper (preferrably wet too) and see if you cant smoothen it up a bit.
As long as their is nothing sticking up you wont have to worry about it chewing up the bearing!
As long as their is nothing sticking up you wont have to worry about it chewing up the bearing!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 807
Likes: 2
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LSX (swapping)
Transmission: 4L60E (swapping)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi 10 Bolt
Re: New Crankshaft?
Awesome guys, thats what I needed to hear. Thanks so much!
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Re: New Crankshaft?
The reason to use a stone is to assure that the "ding" is flush with the surface. If it is above the surface, no matter how much you polish, you're going to groove or spin a new bearing. India stones can be found in very fine grits.
Once it's stoned flat, polish with whatever you like - So long as it isn't aluminum oxide sandpaper. The abrasive (aluminum oxide) is harder than even a forged steel crank, and can embed small particles in the surface of the metal. That's not going to be very friendly toward your new bearings, either. Flint paper or crocus cloth for the final polish is good, since the abrasive is relatively soft.
Oh - And as Randy suggested, next time you should use rod bolt condoms.
Once it's stoned flat, polish with whatever you like - So long as it isn't aluminum oxide sandpaper. The abrasive (aluminum oxide) is harder than even a forged steel crank, and can embed small particles in the surface of the metal. That's not going to be very friendly toward your new bearings, either. Flint paper or crocus cloth for the final polish is good, since the abrasive is relatively soft.
Oh - And as Randy suggested, next time you should use rod bolt condoms.
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From: 39.84N 105.11W
Car: '89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: WAS 350 - now L92 (alum. 378/6.2L)
Transmission: WAS 700R4, now a built T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: New Crankshaft?
For whatever it's worth, pg 3 of this article has some good info on the surface hardening that crankshafts are subjected to... (You'll want to be careful that you don't get carried away with the abrasive...!)
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