Rod bearings bad.....AGAIN
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 169
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From: Owensboro KY
Car: 1998 zx9r
Engine: 899CC inline 4
Transmission: 6 speed manual
Axle/Gears: 15T front sprocket, 43T rear
Rod bearings bad.....AGAIN
My motor started knockin about 10 months ago, it only had about 8,000 miles on it. I tore it apart and my rod bearings were bad, replaced them and no more knock. Well after sitting all winter i started driving my car again in march. Ive never had a oil pressure guage working on my car and i finally got one a few weeks ago and after putting it in my oil pressure would drop from 60 cold to like 5 when it was warm so i tore it down to replace my oil pump and i checked out my rod bearings before hand and 1,2,3 and 4 are all in pretty rough shape they have grooves down to copper, the rest of the rods are good and my mains are great im still on the original set, but i dont want to put another set of rod bearings in if they are going to go bad in a few months. I had the crank turned before i built the motor and its 20 over on the rods and 10 over on the mains im running the appropriate oversize bearings.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Rod bearings bad.....AGAIN
Sounds like the remaining metal debris from however many times a motor has blown up in this block, is still stuck in the oil passages...
Tanking doesn't dissolve metal. Physical cleaning methods are necessary.... with the cam bearings and plugs still out of it.
Tanking doesn't dissolve metal. Physical cleaning methods are necessary.... with the cam bearings and plugs still out of it.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,262
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
Re: Rod bearings bad.....AGAIN
with that oil you had good cold start flow, so i agree with sofa, you still had some trash in it.
pressure wash it & scrub out all the passages with a brush of the right size & hot soapy water.
after you have cleaned everything including all the passages & know its clean, blow it off with compressed air, don't forget to blow out all of the passages from both directions.
make sure you pressure wash everything you reuse, valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, rods & pistons. if the intake has a heat shield on the bottom of it, pull it off & wash under it.
then clean everything at least 1 more time.
pressure wash it & scrub out all the passages with a brush of the right size & hot soapy water.
after you have cleaned everything including all the passages & know its clean, blow it off with compressed air, don't forget to blow out all of the passages from both directions.
make sure you pressure wash everything you reuse, valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, rods & pistons. if the intake has a heat shield on the bottom of it, pull it off & wash under it.
then clean everything at least 1 more time.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,869
Likes: 2,429
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Rod bearings bad.....AGAIN
Take your motor apart; take the block to the machine shop. Specify that they remove the cam bearings and ALL oil passage plugs, including particularly the one about 1" into the block underneath the rear main cap; then AFTER the plugs and bearings are gone; that they should tank it; and that you will come pick it back up with all of that still removed. Have them tap the 3 small plug holes in the front of the block right around the cam bore, to ¼" pipe thread.
Buy yourself an assortment of rifle and shotgun brushes (.22, .30, .45, .410, 12 ga., 10 ga.), a small wire brush shaped like a toothbrush, and a couple of cans of Gunk Engine Bright or similar such as the store brands of engine degreaser (diesel fuel in a spray can).
Go get the block. In the morning on a nice hot sunny day, take it to the quarter car wash; using plenty of the spray can cleaner, run the brushes through EVERY oil passage in the block, most notably the 3 that run all the way from front to rear around the cam bore, and the 5 that go from the cam bearing journals down to the main journals; use the toothbrush-like brush in the grooves that end up covered by the cam bearings; then car-wash the hell out of EVERY ONE of those holes, passages, and grooves. Stick the wand in them and blast them out. Wash the bores with a rag and the soapy water. Blast the cooling passages real good too, get as much of the rust out of them as you can, make sure you leave as little soap in there as possible. Take the block back home, let it sit out in the sun and dry, and wipe down the cyl bores, main saddles, and lifter bores with transmission fluid, to keep them from rusting. Paint the block inside and out.
Then take the block back to the shop and have them put the cam bearings and all the plugs into it including the freeze plugs (use brass ones), except for the 3 little ones in the front, around the cam bearing. MAKE DAMN SURE they get the ½" one under the rear main cap back in at the proper level. Get yourself 3 ¼" allen-drive pipe plugs, and drill 2 of them with about a #70 drill bit; put the undrilled one in the center hole (above the cam), and the 2 drilled ones in the holes to the sides of the cam. Build the motor and enjoy the security of knowing that at least, it started out clean.
Buy yourself an assortment of rifle and shotgun brushes (.22, .30, .45, .410, 12 ga., 10 ga.), a small wire brush shaped like a toothbrush, and a couple of cans of Gunk Engine Bright or similar such as the store brands of engine degreaser (diesel fuel in a spray can).
Go get the block. In the morning on a nice hot sunny day, take it to the quarter car wash; using plenty of the spray can cleaner, run the brushes through EVERY oil passage in the block, most notably the 3 that run all the way from front to rear around the cam bore, and the 5 that go from the cam bearing journals down to the main journals; use the toothbrush-like brush in the grooves that end up covered by the cam bearings; then car-wash the hell out of EVERY ONE of those holes, passages, and grooves. Stick the wand in them and blast them out. Wash the bores with a rag and the soapy water. Blast the cooling passages real good too, get as much of the rust out of them as you can, make sure you leave as little soap in there as possible. Take the block back home, let it sit out in the sun and dry, and wipe down the cyl bores, main saddles, and lifter bores with transmission fluid, to keep them from rusting. Paint the block inside and out.
Then take the block back to the shop and have them put the cam bearings and all the plugs into it including the freeze plugs (use brass ones), except for the 3 little ones in the front, around the cam bearing. MAKE DAMN SURE they get the ½" one under the rear main cap back in at the proper level. Get yourself 3 ¼" allen-drive pipe plugs, and drill 2 of them with about a #70 drill bit; put the undrilled one in the center hole (above the cam), and the 2 drilled ones in the holes to the sides of the cam. Build the motor and enjoy the security of knowing that at least, it started out clean.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Jun 13, 2007 at 09:20 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Owensboro KY
Car: 1998 zx9r
Engine: 899CC inline 4
Transmission: 6 speed manual
Axle/Gears: 15T front sprocket, 43T rear
Re: Rod bearings bad.....AGAIN
Ive just about got it stripped down to the bare block, its gonna be clean enough to eat off of. I was also just wondering if rpm could be doing harm to the bearings, ill occasionally pull 6500-6700 when im racing somebody, the other 95% of the time its below 5500.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,869
Likes: 2,429
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Rod bearings bad.....AGAIN
grooves down to copper
That's the result of trash... metal shavings most likely.
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