H or I - beam rods?
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From: Canada, Vancouver Island
Car: 1990 T-Top Camaro RS
Engine: engineless
Transmission: Trannyless
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt/3.08. soon to be axleless
H or I - beam rods?
alright which is better to get?
im building an engine and i want to acheive 500 plus HP. (thats my goal)
and add a supercharger in the near future.
everything is going to be forged but i just dont know what kind of rods to get.
H or I beams?
which are better for what engine build?
and what is the difference between the 2?
----------
ahh i already screwed up with the 1st sentience of the post!!!!
im building an engine and i want to acheive 500 plus HP. (thats my goal)
and add a supercharger in the near future.
everything is going to be forged but i just dont know what kind of rods to get.
H or I beams?
which are better for what engine build?
and what is the difference between the 2?
----------
ahh i already screwed up with the 1st sentience of the post!!!!
Last edited by joshh44; Oct 26, 2007 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: H or I - beam rods?
I beam rods look like factory rods. They can be very strong and will survive well in most mild engines. With a bit of prep work they can survive more abuse than most people will give them credit. The downside is that they're heavy.
H beam rods are very light. They can take a lot more load from all out race engines or any engine using a power adder. If there's any kind of failure inside the engine like throwing a rod, H beam rods don't do as much damage as an I beam rod will. (past experience with both)
As with any engine build using non stock parts, an engine balance is required to make sure the crank is balanced to match the weight of the rotating assembly.
H beam rods are very light. They can take a lot more load from all out race engines or any engine using a power adder. If there's any kind of failure inside the engine like throwing a rod, H beam rods don't do as much damage as an I beam rod will. (past experience with both)
As with any engine build using non stock parts, an engine balance is required to make sure the crank is balanced to match the weight of the rotating assembly.
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From: Columbus
Car: 89 Camaro rs.
Engine: 357 t88 turbo motor
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: 3.55
Re: H or I - beam rods?
oliver i beam. good. stock bad. get a set of eagle h beam or scat. very inexpensive and worth them money. both are rated to 700 or more and they would do good with boost
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From: FH/Waterford/Port Huron, MI
Car: 2 camaros 1 trailblazer SS
Engine: 346twinturbo, 383tpi
Transmission: t56 and 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:46 4:11
Re: H or I - beam rods?
H beam all the way. But why all forged I seen 800hp N/A motors with out forged. Now it it was a Nitrous motor. And a little of topic but with force induction you should lower compression. So the best way IMO is in the pistion assuming that the heads already have a bad *** port. And thicker head gasket are not great.
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
Re: H or I - beam rods?
The best stock rods were the "powdered metal" found in the 96+ Vortec 350 trucks. They're good for 450-500 horsepower N/A, while the stock thirdgen rods are good for about 300-350 HP.
Manley rods are good too.
Part number 14050-8 is for a set of 5.7" H-beams good for 700 HP at 8000 RPMs. Even higher at less RPMs.
Manley rods are good too.
Part number 14050-8 is for a set of 5.7" H-beams good for 700 HP at 8000 RPMs. Even higher at less RPMs. Member
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From: Columbus
Car: 89 Camaro rs.
Engine: 357 t88 turbo motor
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: 3.55
Re: H or I - beam rods?
with my s10 and my 355 motor i went 9.93 at 136 on eagle i beam sir rods. which have arp waveloc bolts and are rated to 500 hp. im shure 7800 rpm is hurting them but no problems so far. motor is 10 years old. my turbo motor has corillo h beams with l-19 rod bolts. supposed to be good for 1500 hp.
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: H or I - beam rods?
Forged isn't always best. They wear out the bores faster, and make noise when warming up. They're also heavier. Who says they're needed? They're needed for the heat of forced induction, if you aren't turbo/supercharging, there's no need for it.
All connecting rods are forged, just to avoid confusion.
All connecting rods are forged, just to avoid confusion.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 665
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From: Canada, Vancouver Island
Car: 1990 T-Top Camaro RS
Engine: engineless
Transmission: Trannyless
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt/3.08. soon to be axleless
Re: H or I - beam rods?
im planning on sticking a supercharger on there in the next 2 or so years when i have money saved up for it.
but by then ill probably rebuild the whole motor when i get the charger. make all good again
how much hp will a hyp piston hold up to with out any supercharger?
i dont wanna break something. and its nice to know that i have strong parts in the engine.
how much did you pay for the egale H beam rods??
but by then ill probably rebuild the whole motor when i get the charger. make all good again

how much hp will a hyp piston hold up to with out any supercharger?
i dont wanna break something. and its nice to know that i have strong parts in the engine.
how much did you pay for the egale H beam rods??
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,462
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From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
Re: H or I - beam rods?
It was part of a kit that included an Eagle forged 400 crank and SRP forged slugs with the rods of course. $1500
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From: mckeesport. pa
Car: 88transam/ 86 iroc-z/ 64 corvette
Engine: ta 400ci tpi/ iroc 327 / vette 327
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Axle/Gears: ta 3:42/ iroc 3:73/ vette 4:11
Re: H or I - beam rods?
i used eagle esp 6 in rods in a 383 i had in my camaro. they worked great no problems. and i just got another set for a 400 project i am working on. for the price you cant beat the deal
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 665
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From: Canada, Vancouver Island
Car: 1990 T-Top Camaro RS
Engine: engineless
Transmission: Trannyless
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt/3.08. soon to be axleless
Re: H or I - beam rods?
my budget is $1500 or cheaper for the crank. rods and pistons.
i found an forged 4340 eagle crank for $549.99 its made for the 383.
its balanced as well. is that good deal or alittle pricey?
i found the same cranks but for much more money.
so i thought that price was pretty good.
i also found some pistions that are $400 for some forged probe pistions.
the rods would be about $325 for H-beam Forged rods.
so total it would be about $1300 or so.
what do you think?
i found an forged 4340 eagle crank for $549.99 its made for the 383.
its balanced as well. is that good deal or alittle pricey?
i found the same cranks but for much more money.
so i thought that price was pretty good.
i also found some pistions that are $400 for some forged probe pistions.
the rods would be about $325 for H-beam Forged rods.
so total it would be about $1300 or so.
what do you think?
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