So I was going to do a 383 but my machinist said it needed to go to .040 over so it is now going to be a 385. I am looking to run on pump gas and the motor is going in my 82 CFI car. First here is what I have so far;

010 block bored .040 over nothing taken of the deck since to machinist said it measured fine.
Eagle cast steal crank
Eagle 5.7 5140 rods with ARP bolts
Speed pro coated skirt 9.7:1 with 64cc chamber pistons
186 heads with screw in studs 1.5 crane full rollers and guide plates. Ported and polished with 2.02/ 1.60 valves.
Performer RPM Intake port matched and polished
Holley 750 dp
Milodon lifter valley baffle
Clevite bearing and perfect circle rings

I also have picked out a Comp Cams XE274 cam to go in this just haven't bought it yet.

I will be installing a TH350 with a 2500 stall. It will be street driven but not driven everyday. I am hoping to get over 400 at the crank on this and would like to run a small shot of nitrous (100hp) to get around 400 to the wheels and have the car into the 12's on motor.To optimistic?

Ok, here are my questions. First off I was thinking of going with a electric water pump but how much of a difference will it make. I know that it should free up a few more horsepower but is it enough for a budget conscious person. How much better cooling will I get.

Second, what are the pros versus cons of keeping the HEI and installing a Pertronics rebuild kit in the one that came of the motor but would I be better off going with divorced coil type distributor.

Next, will the oil pan that came off this motor which was in a truck fit on the camaro or do I need a special oil pan. And is anyone running a windage tray? Worth it?

Lastly, would the stock fuel pump with a return style regulator be up to the task of the motor. I really don't want to drop the fuel tank if I dont have to.

Ok enough thanks in advance. Please keep in mind I have way more time than money.

 

Then the electric water pump and the distributor stuff are not good ideas. VERY LOW on the bang-for-the-$$$ scale.Maybe, no, yes, maybe. Depends on what year truck and what you would consider "fit": the pan is taller in the front part, in front of the sump, on some of those, and will hit the frame before the motor sits all the way down on the mounts; and on some, the sump is longer toward the front as well, and the Y-pipe won't fit. If you can use your stock Camaro pan, that's the best bet. I ran the old "Z28" pan 360450 for many many years in my car, with both the stock exhaust and Edelbrock TES; and the Y-pipe with the SLP headers I have now will fit as well. That pan REQUIRES a windage tray; I used the Moroso slotted & Teflon-coated one. However, that setup may or may not fit your engine depending on what block you have.Depends on what car, what pump, the condition of the pump, and the condition of the lines. For nitrous, I would say no, however.

 

Carb intakes (or any "wet" intake) shouldn't be polished. They should be left a little rough, like 80 grit sandrolls leave.

 

What do you guys think of my performance hopes? Are they realistic?

Five7kid, anything that sounds amiss in the setup. I would love to know before everything is assembled. I followed the instructions in the chevy hi performance this month which called for 100 grit to finished it up but I haven't got that far yet. I have only got to the 40 grit step so I guess I will just use 80 grit instead of 100 than.

Sofakingdom, thanks for saving me a couple hundred on the electric water pump I can use that on a new fuel pump and pickup for the carbed setup.
I am going to have to do something with the distributor anyway since all the springs and internals look like crap and have rust on them. I guess I could buy one of the ebay HEI pieces that are like 60 bucks for the whole thing but I just assumed they are just. Is that not the case?

It looks like I will have to figure out which pump to run then. Mechanical or electric with a regulator. I think I will just go with a mechanical style and a regulator and a new pick up.

I thought of another question. The short block is not assembled yet but I figure it will need to be clearanced for the new crank. Is this something that can be done at home with a die grinder or something. What is the minimum clearance. Is there anywhere I could find instructions on this?

Thanks guys, you two in particular have help me out a bunch over the last few months and have help me keep my time line of, "motor in and ripping before the snow melts". (still have along time here in Alaska probably May'ish)

 

100 is okay, 80 is what SA says. It's just that you said "polished", which I took to mean a mirror finish.

 

You can run a mechanical pump without a separate regulator.

You can do all the clearancing yourself with a die grinder. About 1/16" everywhere is plenty of clearance.

 

Thanks so much everyone