You can buy one at harbor freight for something like $100.

 

Rented mine from a hardware store before, and one from a local shop. You can buy them cheap, but they take up a lot of space.

 

yeah i know, but i don't have the space to store it. i'm going to ask some places for a rental. if not i may buy one and then just sell it when i'm done.

 

should i get a 1 ton or 2 ton hoist? i'm planning on taking the engine and trans out as a whole. i'm going to get a load leveler, two hooks, a bolt on bracket for the front of the engine with a hole in it or a grade 8 bolt and washer, and the strongest rated chain i can find. any other tips?

 

2000 lbs in a ton.

 

how much do you think the engine and trans weigh all together? if the engine weights 250, i'm guessing the trans weights like 150-200 tops? if so the 1 ton will be more than enough.

 

It'll be fine, I'm guessing this is your first engine pull? Just go slow and make sure everything is disconnected and labeled.

 

Don't buy an engine from jasper. The motor i built happened to be a rebuilt jasper engine. Half of the cylinders were bored .030 and .060 over. they do whatever it takes to make it run, even if that means using different rods etc.

 

Fine for a low rpm truck motor maybe, but uh balance nightmare perhaps?

 

Well depends I can take a engine out with just a come along done it once but I have two engine hoists so theres not a need. 1 ton will work perfectly for the engine and trans just take your time.

Jasper has good products overall. They purchased build facilities from a few different places and are selling engines made by Reccon for one. Granted I have seen some Junk come from Jasper and had plenty of issues dealing with them when I ran the shop but overall had less failures with them then the other places. I'd just buy a gm crate base engine and be done its less expensive then a stock jasper rebuild. Got into an argument with a Jasper rep about that. It was kinda fun when they told me thier product was better then a new engine and worth the $300 more. Easyer to sell a customer a new engine then a rebuilt for $300 more.

 

I picked up a roller block in a junk yard and had it built at a local shop, start to finish, including install with new custom exhaust for about $6000. I'm finding small things that were missed here and there that are still giving me fits...even though the motor itself runs like a scalded dog. That said, if you don't want to go through the pain of looking for all your parts and "building" the engine the way you want it, I would look at Scoggin-Dicky or Salee/Gilbert Cheverolet and pick up a GMPP motor. They've really got some good deals that make good power. Oh, and trust me when I say you'll be MUCH, much happier with a 350!!! hahaha

 

yeah this is my first solo pull. my i've done a few with my friend but that was a while ago. everytime we did it we pulled the motor and trans out as a unit so i have some knowledge of how things are going to go.

as for the hoist i'm going to get the 1 ton foldable from harbor frieght. when i'm done i can dismantle it and store it when i need it.

as for the motor i'm not sure where to get it from. there a dealer a few miles away from me that's a GMPP seller but i haven't gotten around to calling them. and the GMPP website doesn't say anything about blocks. are those hydro roller type blocks similar to the originals? if someone knows anything please feel free to point me in the right direction. all i know right now i'm not buying from Jasper. oh yeah, and i'm definitely getting a 350! lol time for an upgrade.

oh yeah, while under the car finishing up the prep work i found a nice sized hole in the side of my oil pan next to the filter/oil cooler. pictures coming soon.

 

You might want to get a 2 ton hoist. The Firebirds have the longest nose on the third gens and the smaller 1 ton hoist may not have enough reach. By the time I have my 2 ton extended all the way out it is only good for 500lbs.

Something to think about.

 

agreed, you do have a point. i'd rather spend the extra money for that much more peace of mind. what about chain strength? also what size bolts should i get to mount the engine to the stand?

 

btw, does anyone know if GM still sells roller blocks like the ones for our cars? i'm looking at GMPP now and the only thing they have is a base 350 engine intended for use in cars from 69-85 and it's not a roller cam block. what i want to do is build a 350 with the hydro rollers, and my TPI injection system. i intend to use the car in SCCA use at the track as well. anyone a good place to get this done?

 

Look up any rental place in town, they should be able to hook you up. Or, check out harbor freight, they've got em for like, $99 or so, maybe a little more now as it's been a few years since I checked on the prices.

For bolts, just take out four manifold bolts and if they are in good shape, use those. Or, take out four of them, and go to Fastenal or a place that sells hardware like that and get four new grade 8 bolts...not stainless steel though, that stuff looks good but it's soft.

Personally, I went to Checker and got a lift plate that bolts to the carb/EFI fitting bolts. Took the carb off and it bolted in where those bolts go. All you'll need is four bolts that fit those bolt holes. Also, you'll want to take your hood off as it gives you much, much more clearance to work. With the hood on you'll scrape the underside of it trying to get the hoist in and out with the engine attached.

 

hey thanks ozz! unfortunately in this case i have TPI so no lift plates on the manifold for me. can i make a lift bracket out of something? sounds like it would be better for when the engine tilts.

 

ok guys, i bought the hoist, load leveler, and two hooks. i need to get some HD chain, grade 8 bolts and washers. still debating on either taking the engine and trans out together or separate. need bolts to hook up engine to stand too. anyone know the sizes of the bolts i need?

 

if ur pullin the engine and trans together pick up a tail shaft plug or you'll get trans fluid everywere

 

that sucks it was fine one day then another its blown


Ya, thats very good advice on the trans plug. 12 qts of fluid isnt fun to clean up LOL

 

Superbee

Ask me how I know LOL

 

lol not to get too off topic, but yeah we were pulling the engine trans out of my buddies 454ss and im like, u better put somthing in the back of the tailshaft, its gonna leak some fluid out. How much is some...i was like, alot. Hmmmm ehh **** it, let just pull it .......


Go to pull the truck out of the garage and see a red spot the size of the whole truck . I LOL'D

 

Try Summit Racing or Scoggin Dickie for a engine. I would shop around. Ithink you can find a better deal than Jasper.May can buy a 383 for what a 350 would cost.

 

hey guys, before the rain started i test fitted the load lifter and chains. in the picture below i have a grade 8 bolt on the front of the driver's side head with a grade 8 washer and at the rear of the passenger's side head i have another grade 8 bolt with a grade 8 washer in the last intake manifold hole. i'm thinking of adding one more lift point on the back of the driver's side head to support the combined weight. what do you guys think?

 

p.s. where do i get one of those plugs? the one's i have a work for the fwd transmissions don't fit.

 

If you're going to just lift it, get it out and get it down you should be fine. Just dont leave the whole assy. hanging for a long time and definately dont get under it at any time.

Those plugs are available from Summit or Jegs, or probably any local speed shop.

 

yeah right now i just want to get it out of there. the hoist is a 2 ton, load leveler and i'm guessing the chains also are 2 tons due to the fact that they came all together, and of course the grade 8 stuff i'm hoping should be fine.

for the record i'm not going with jasper, never was. i was thinking about rebuilt-auto-engines.com as some people have told me they had good experiences. recently i've been going through the GMPP catalogue but alot of those engines say "for use in cars 86 and earlier". i want an almost stock 350 with maybe a slightly beefier cam, hydro rollers, 1 piece rear main seal as i want to reuse my flywheel and starter, and that has heads that will allow me to reuse my TPI manifold and intakes. anyone seen anything like this?

 

hey guys what do you think of this one: http://www.sdparts.com/product/12513...RollerCam.aspx

 

i think id **** 2K away at somthing other than a weak *** tbi motor.

Get something with an lt1 or hair bigger cam, vortec heads with a vortec base intake...

No since in paying for heads and a cam u wouldnt use.. If you have to, buy the rotating assybly and replace the cam, then you can put different head on it and top it off with your tpi injection.

Roller is good. But that isnt worth the money and time to put a motor with that cam and heads back in.

Baby steps....we want leaps

 

That engine is an LO5 that means crappy swirl port heads you don't want them and for that price you can find better. And that peanut cam in it is a joke to.
If you wanna go that route by a headless short block and fin good heads and cam.
In the TBI forum there is a sticky on heads and port flow info I would reead up on that a little so that you know what kind of heads you need to get with the motor.

 

hey guys, finally pulled the motor and trans out on sunday. worst part was trying to move the hoist to pull the motor. so i used a special tool as you'll see in the picture below



lol this was after i pulled it away from the car. just want you all to know i had both ends of the tow strap attached to the hoist to pull it evenly.

wow, i didn't know that motor was so under spec. forget that engine, then. do any of you guys know of a good long block that will work good with TPI?

 

did you pull the oil pan, and inspect the damage?

 

nah not yet. i'm taking a day off today. just got it on the stand last night. i'll probably do it later in the week. i'll keep you guys posted.

 

Ordinarily I'd say why waste the time since it would take more money to fix the 305 than a 350 costs but YEAH, we want nice clear pictures of CARNAGE!

 

This is a good starting point
http://www.sdparts.com/product/12530...psandSUVs.aspx

However you will need this
http://www.sdparts.com/product/E3817...nderHeads.aspx
for your engine too

And while ur at it a lt4 hot cam will help wake things up alot too

 

why would you recommend the above over a ZZ4???
just cusious, as I thought the ZZ4 was pretty much a preformance standard.

 

The zz4 is nearly TWICE as much, you could sell the vortec heads, buy a set of AFR's and a decent cam and be cheaper than a zz4. It would probably make 100hp more than a zz4 too. I'd probably go with a holley stealth ram over the $500 TPI base as well.

 

One i didn't know our heads were shaped like that, now i do lol. Two wow this really sucks but hey least you get to upgrade. Also im thinking why not get an engine and manual trans from a fourth gen... Makes more hp (trans can deal with it) and also will prolly get better gas mileage lol.

 

327??? Thanks for answering that question for me. a HSR is probably a better bet but never know what someone may want.

All in all its about how much $$$ he has to work with and what he likes.

GTAman keep us posted on what you decide to do.

I am picking up a stock L98 long block myself and will change the cam, heads, and intake myself as cost allows

 

does a ZZ4 engine have hydro roller? what i'm looking for is a long block with a good pair of heads and a better cam that i can hook my TPI up to. as i mentioned before, i need something good for SCCA track racing. 400 rwhp i guess would be my target.

 

yes it does have a hydro roller but its fairly tame and more suited for carb, the motor I posted also has hydro roller and it has the vortec heads ask anyone about the vortecs they will tell you how good they are. And is cheaper then the ZZ4
If you want 400RWHP you will need A really good cam and def a HSR or miniram intake(don't think the miniram is vortec compatible though) but that kind of power is not going to happen with a stock style TPI without Major mods and $$$ In the end a HSR will be cheaper. You will also need to have the heads fully ported too even if you were to pickup a good set of aftermarket heads like AFR 195's you would still need some work done to them to support 400RWHP

 

can the SUV motor with the vortec heads bolt up to a 700R4? can i transfer things like the flywheel, oil cooler, serp belt parts, and all the sensors over?

 

Yes eveything but the lower intake base should be a direct change over
The engine block is the same casting as yours just the heads have a dif intake bolt setup

 

The zz4 cam is very mild, I've got it in my uncles 88 L03 bird with ported '416 heads. It's still TBI but with 454 injectors, it's run by a megasquirt 1. It runs and idles very well, it went 14.5 at 94ish, and it pulls 3.5" of vacuum at WOT.

In order to make 400rwhp you need an engine similar to the one I described above, I doubt you could do it with vortecs and a streetable cam.

 

there are companies who make TPI bases for vortec heads, right?

 

yes the second link in my above post should take you to the base
I belive it an Edelbrock but others may have on aswell but for the price an Holley Stealth Ram would be the way to go alot more usable power and more top end
Tpi is done at 4500rpm with major mods you may get it to pull to 5200 but not much more.
the HSR will easily go over 6000RPM

 

so where are you from in new jersey? I have my old 305 sitting on a stand and no where to put it..

 

and now, what you've all been waiting for...the photos!

 

Wow..
Thanks for that final photo..

 

all I can say is Holy S*** man!!!