Remote HEI coil voltage
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From: Painesville, Ohio USA
Car: 1989 IROC Z28
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Corvette servo
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen, 3.23, posi, PBR
Remote HEI coil voltage
Short version: What is the voltage output of the stock remote HEI coil? I thought I read somewhere it's around 30kv. Can anyone verify?
Long version: L03 engine was running rough after bringing it out of winter storage. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor b/c they haven't been changed in a while. Had a bear of a time getting the rotor off - basically, had to split it into pieces to remove it. While I was at it, the ignition module and coil were replaced with Accel products. While it was running, although poorly, I was able to time the ignition to spec - 0 deg BTDC.
Engine started, but continued to run very rich until it warmed up - then, it wouldn't run at all. Noticed fuel was dripping from injector pods, so I rebuilt the TBI. Now, the engine doesn't start at all. The rebuild solved the dripping fuel problem, although I'm surprised how much fuel is injected while cranking to start (I never looked at it before - so I don't know what's normal). But, I was relieved to see if I continue to crank the engine, the injectors cut back to just a light mist w/ each pulse and no dripping.
I suspected it may be a vacuum leak, so I had disconnected & plugged every vacuum line attached to the manifold and TBI. Still wouldn't start. Then
I suspected the EGR valve might have some carbon build up from running rich. So, I removed and inspected it. Surprisingly, there was only a light layer of soot. The movable portion of the valve seemed a little off center though and the vacuum housing of the valve may have been tweaked that way. I was able to straighten it out and it seems to seat better even though it didn't appear to be leaking. Now while cranking the engine w/ the throttles closed there’s 15-18 in. of vacuum. Another oddity was the puddle of fuel in the lower EGR passage - suspect this was from cranking the engine w/o it firing. I used rags to draw all that I could out of it.
The ignition is firing, but I'm not sure it's putting out enough voltage. I purchased a spark tester that adjusts to 10, 20, 30 & 40 kv. Both the original coil and Accel coil will only jump up to the 20 kv gap. It's a good healthy spark, but I thought both were supposed to put out more. If I adjust it midway between 20 and 30 kv - nothing. Right now, this is the only thing I've found amiss. The Accel coil is supposed to put out up to 48 kv. The primary and secondary resistances are close to spec - primary 0.4-0.2 ohms; sec 8.4 k ohms. But, the secondary resistance isn't to the frame of the coil - where I don't get anything - only the ground side of the primary connections.
The only way I get a sign of life is to pull the fuses for the injectors, crank the engine to 'dry it out', and spray some starting fluid or pour a small amount of fuel into the manifold. Even then it only gives a 'flutter', not what I would call starting until it runs out of fuel. Which leads me to think it's spark.
Long version: L03 engine was running rough after bringing it out of winter storage. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor b/c they haven't been changed in a while. Had a bear of a time getting the rotor off - basically, had to split it into pieces to remove it. While I was at it, the ignition module and coil were replaced with Accel products. While it was running, although poorly, I was able to time the ignition to spec - 0 deg BTDC.
Engine started, but continued to run very rich until it warmed up - then, it wouldn't run at all. Noticed fuel was dripping from injector pods, so I rebuilt the TBI. Now, the engine doesn't start at all. The rebuild solved the dripping fuel problem, although I'm surprised how much fuel is injected while cranking to start (I never looked at it before - so I don't know what's normal). But, I was relieved to see if I continue to crank the engine, the injectors cut back to just a light mist w/ each pulse and no dripping.
I suspected it may be a vacuum leak, so I had disconnected & plugged every vacuum line attached to the manifold and TBI. Still wouldn't start. Then
I suspected the EGR valve might have some carbon build up from running rich. So, I removed and inspected it. Surprisingly, there was only a light layer of soot. The movable portion of the valve seemed a little off center though and the vacuum housing of the valve may have been tweaked that way. I was able to straighten it out and it seems to seat better even though it didn't appear to be leaking. Now while cranking the engine w/ the throttles closed there’s 15-18 in. of vacuum. Another oddity was the puddle of fuel in the lower EGR passage - suspect this was from cranking the engine w/o it firing. I used rags to draw all that I could out of it.
The ignition is firing, but I'm not sure it's putting out enough voltage. I purchased a spark tester that adjusts to 10, 20, 30 & 40 kv. Both the original coil and Accel coil will only jump up to the 20 kv gap. It's a good healthy spark, but I thought both were supposed to put out more. If I adjust it midway between 20 and 30 kv - nothing. Right now, this is the only thing I've found amiss. The Accel coil is supposed to put out up to 48 kv. The primary and secondary resistances are close to spec - primary 0.4-0.2 ohms; sec 8.4 k ohms. But, the secondary resistance isn't to the frame of the coil - where I don't get anything - only the ground side of the primary connections.
The only way I get a sign of life is to pull the fuses for the injectors, crank the engine to 'dry it out', and spray some starting fluid or pour a small amount of fuel into the manifold. Even then it only gives a 'flutter', not what I would call starting until it runs out of fuel. Which leads me to think it's spark.
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