So yep this is the third time im having to put this thing back together... I hate to think of this one not turning out well either...

So I've found myself a core that I may or may not decide to use for this and I have a few questions.

1. It's a 1 pc RMS (Which I wanted so I could save money on a T56 flywheel) block, I think out of a Vortec truck so it's not a roller block. And this is the lifter valley:



What would it take to use a factory style roller cam in it? What modifications are necessary and would they be practical? I'm aware I can just do a normal linked pair of lifters like the retro roller guys do, but that's not cheap as we all know. I've got an L03 out back that I could swipe most of hte hardware from, but Im not sure exactly what the casting differences are since I know these 1 pc RMS blocks all came with these tall lifter bores to accomodate roller lifters, but some (like mine) didnt come set up for the rest of the hardware.

2. I got this crankshaft with it. I really want to go with an aftermarket cast Eagle crank like I did the first time around, it looked like a very nice piece, but Im not sure I can justify the costs yet.

Is this salvagable? Im refering to the surface rust on the journals. I know I can probably get it turned. but it's just a stock cast L98 crank and I'm unsure about whether it's really worth the investment to keep it, was curious about what you guys think about it. And it looks nowhere near as nice as the Eagle crank I already have (But it's a 2 pc RMS crank, and a 2 pc RMS flywheel for a T56 costs more than a new crankshaft.) but I'm thinking I may just make sacrifices for the sake of getting this thing running. How much does turning a crank generally cost?





I'm not sure what kind of power I'm looking at yet. It's vortec heads and a mild (218/224 for now, may go up to a 224/230 cam) cam and I was aiming for 300 hp at the wheels, so I'll assume I'll be more realistically in the neighborhood of 350 hp at the flywheel? Is that pushing it for a stock l98 crank? Im thinking it should be fine, but I wanted to get some second opinions.

Thanks guys!

 

take it to a machine shop

I dont have a virtual mic

get the spider tray and the figure 8 lifter retainers

pushrods

cam plate

 

That block has what you need to take a factory-style roller cam. You're just going to need the various parts and have the machine shop drill and tap where appropriate to bolt them in. If you currently have a factory roller cam in your existing engine you could swipe what you need out of it. Your old LO3 would be an ideal candidate to donate the necessary parts.

Vortec truck motors (96-up) were all roller cams, so that's likely from an earlier truck motor than that.

Can't tell whether that crank is salvagable or not just from a picture, but the rust looks like it is mild enough it'll probably just go away when they polish the journals. If the crank needs to be turned then the rust is a total non-issue.

Did you get a complete set of rods with it as well or are you going to have to buy a set? I ask becuase depending on how much stuff you need to buy it might make more sense to get a complete balanced rotating assembly and install it rather than piecing this together one part at a time. Maybe think about stepping up to a 383 stroker crank while you're at it?

 

I can barely justify the price of a stock stroke rotating assembly, much less a stroker one. I did the math and it's not that much more expensive, but clearancing the block plus dealing with a small base circle cam have me thinking it's just really not worth the trouble.

 

I just measured my crank today its also from a L98 and it was 2.0990" and the book said its supposed to be 2.0990-2.1000" so my teaqcher told me it is a new crank i just bought the engine two months ago for $500 i just wanted to check in your guys opinion if i should use the stock bearings i have or should i buy other ones.