Crouchman

iTrader: (1)

I've got an 88 IROC 305TPI - was 700R4, now T-5. Was stalling before the swap at stops. Just drops - RPS may wiggle then just die. Somethimes just straight dies. Sometimes goes quickly to about 500RPM & recovers. Usually idling at about 1250, but can go down, up, down, up. After the swap, it now dies (most inconveniently) when I downshift into 2nd making a turn - for the most part. Can stall at a stop, but this is intermittent. Stalls alot or not at all. Have thrown parts at it without success. New mass air flow, had the new plugs/wires, etc when I bought it, power cleaned the injectors, ran injector cleaner in the gas, etc. Possible computer problem/bad computer? Any other suggestions? No fun to drive it. Losing power steering in the middle of a turn takes the fun out of it. But the T-5 swap was a great decision. Sooo much fun when it's running good. Thanks for any help!

gurkgurkgurk

sometimes timing issues will cause that. also make sure to check rotor, cap, coil.

nimrod_sixty9

Sounds more like a fuel issue to me... Pump... filter..

Supervisor42

Nobody mentioned cleaning the throttle body or cleaning/replacing the IAC (idle air control)? Changing the TPS?

gurkgurkgurk

yes like mentioned before it can be a fuel issue.

go by whats cheapest to replace first that way u dont have to shell out 100 bucks on a fuel pump, that id gladly sell you

anyways

fuel filter
cap
rotor
sparkplugs

Crouchman

iTrader: (1)

did most of that, I think including the IAC. Did all the filters/fluids/wires/cap/rotor/synthetic, that kind of stuff when I first got it. Doesn't smell like it's combusting completely - can get whiffs of gas/smells rich at times. I think there is a timing issue...my mechanic thinks the timing bracket isn't positioned correctly, if I have that right. I think the computer takes over. He was thinking it may be a computer issue. Knock sensor wasn't even connected when I got it. Put in a new one. It does run like a scalded cat when it doesn't stall. And starts right back up after a stall. Is also slow to start after it's hot/warm. Cold starts on the 1st or 2nd crank. 2 or 3 cranks when it's warm/hot and has been shut off for a bit. Starts pretty much right up after a stall though. Go figure. Thanks for all the input.

gurkgurkgurk

that happened to me all the time. it would stall, but turn on perfectly right after, turned out the timing was set to 4* atdc