The new stabiliser bushuings are cheap about $15 for a set of polyurethane bushing, better and will outlast the rubber ones!
If your motormounts are bad ,your tranny mount probably is too.
The metal timing gears probably cost the same??? Not sure, but I learned 30 yrs ago not to use the plastic ones, once they wear in you can have rough idle problems due to slop or play in them. Terrible friggin idea.
I'd go with a poly tranny mount also. The motor mounts can be had in Poly also, but the clam shell type are taller, and can cause exhaust clearance/header problems, at least the ones I got. (Energy Suspension).
Should be able to get all of that stuff @ Auto Zone or Advanced/ O' Rielly's.
Yeah you're right a motor is a motor! Been awhile since I've torn into anything but a small block chevy!! Good luck.

 

You will also have to aquire a damper install tool, either by renting or creating one with a threaded rod, nut, and a couple of large washers. Depending on whether or not you end up changing the timing set, you will also need a 2 or 3 jaw puller (rentable at Autozone as well) in order to remove the crank gear.

Good to hear things are moving well for you.

 

well apparently autozone don't rent the damper puller any more and it's like $30. I called last night. The guy seemed to think the timing gears were all metal.
So I need an install tool aswell and a puller for crank gear.
Is there a set which will do it all?
What if I pull the cover and all looks good?
I got home early enough today and I pulled the water pump.
Hoping that the weekend will allow me to work on it some more.
I'll have to work saturday weather permitting...but merely a few hours.
Will I have clearance issues with the puller seeing as the motor is still in the car? How easy is the pulley to remove from the damper?

 

iirc the pulley is just bolted on

 

Interesting..my Autozone rents a damper puller. Hmm.

Yes, there's a "special" tool for installing a damper, too. It's pressed onto the crank snout rather tightly and the only way of completely drawing onto the crank is via a large threaded rod, and a washer to pull the damper on. A few bucks at the local hardware store, though, and you can fashion your own damper install tool. Nothing big there. Threads on the crank snout are 7/16-20.

You will only need the jaw puller in the event your timing set needs to be replaced. If all is well, then nothing needs to get pulled off. There really isn't a set that does everything. The damper removal tool utilizes the 3 crank pulley bolts, and the crank snout to remove the damper. The lower timing gear is just a gear pressed onto the crank snout, so it needs a jaw-type puller.

If all is well under the timing cover, put it back together and call it good. Make sure the gasket sealing surface is clean on both the timing cover and the block.

3 bolts hold the pulley to the damper, undo those, tap the pulley and it falls right off. Damper can be removed with the engine in the car.

 

AZ should rent all you need. A steel timing set should run around $18. At least the last one I bought, which didn't come from AZ. Timing cover seal set will run about $8, but you need to look at your damper and if worn where it meets the crankshaft seal you'll need the $18 set with the little steel sleeve for the damper and matching crankshaft seal to go into the cover.

Clean the crank snout and damper and lube well before re-installing. You'll never get it back on dry.

With the oil pan off I'd consider replacing the rear main seal while you're there. It almost certainly leaks by now. $11 and comes with the little installation tool.

A one-piece oil pan gasket, $25, is a helluva lot easier to install while the engine is still in the car. It includes little plastic clips that hold the gasket in place while you lift the pan into position from underneath. Otherwise $13 and a bit of a gamble towards leak free.

The above would certainly keep your lower end leak free for some time to come.

 

Good info.
Ok I bought a puller set. Finally got hold of the contractor who owed me and I'll be working side on saturday again...so more funds are on the way for my project.
Looking to probably pull the damper any day I get home with daylight.
I have the pump out so I'm ready.
I also need to get back underneath and check stuff and replace seals while I'm there.
I'm just not in a great rush since it's not my DD yet. But that's the plan in the short to long term.
I wasn't aware I could do the rear seal without pulling the transmission.
I'll more than likely do the front seal and gasket while I'm at it at the weekend. That way I know it's good to go.
Getting back underneath will prob wait til next weekend since it's all buttoned up again. But I know I need to do that oil pan seal so I'll do the rear seal at the same time. Time is an issue about pulling the caps. What should I be looking for there?

Once again I thank you guys for the seemingly unlimited knowledge I am learning from you's. I am humbled by the awesome response to my once little thread.

THANKS HEAPS.

 

Do you have a torque wrench? One is needed for tightening the caps.

Basically, you're looking for anything that doesn't look like a nice smooth surface. Take pictures and post them so we can see them. The thought is, if that kind of crap was in the pan, it could have been sent through the system and ended up in the bearings and made some marks on the bearings/crank surfaces. Do one cap at a time. Take the front cap off, take a picture of the bearing surface and crank journal. Put cap back on and torque down. Move to second cap, repeat process through all caps.

+1 on the 1 pc. oil pan gasket suggestion.

 

yeah I got a torque wrench...bought it same time as the puller set.
says it also removes gears but I'll find out soon enough if I have to do that.
I agree about the 1 pc pan gasket. Why leave anything to chance eh? for the sake of a few extra dollars.
Weekend approaching and I got my W2 today...woohoo. Rubs hands.

EDIT:
anybody have the torque settings off hand or possibly a complete spec sheet for the motor?
Would be very much appreciated.

Thanks guys.
ya'll have been a heap of help so far in my quest.

 

Hey you said that your tranny fluid may be low and that it is way above the cold mark even though it's been sitting for days. You've gotta have the car running when you check the transmission fluid level.

 

Here's a handy page to bookmark, has all the torque specs, and firing order and whatnot:

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm

 

Just what I needed there my friend.

And I thought about googling it but I've been having no real luck finding info for my engine.
I guess I should think like an american when googling. No disrespect intended but we call stuff different where I come from....LOL...the real names...haha.
JK. I am usually able to find what I want when I google.

@ beltfed...I did realise that but something told me it could be too full...not low. However I will recheck when I get the car warm and running again. I have much to do still.

EDIT:
Am I going to experience difficulty in removing the damper bolt...I got this feeling that the motor is gonna reverse rotate unless I am able to stop this somehow.
Any hints or tips before I attempt this tomorrow when I get home???

Thanks again.

 

Nothing special, just load up a 5/8" socket on a breaker bar and have at it. Give it a couple good pops, like on-off sudden force, and it should loosen.

 

Wow man, alot of little issues adding up to a major headache.Bravo for keeping a seeming cool head and getting it figured out. You're almost there, but a good tune up would also probably help very much. Also when(if) you replace the timing set, I would recommend a double roller(can get fairly cheap from summitracing.com), they last longer and are more accurate. The clunk when shifting into drive could also be the driveshaft u-joints or a little play in the rear differential. If the idle is a little high or the car still running rough,it may kinda amplify the noise, definately worry with that after the engine is running the best you can get it running. One last piece of advice, go to AZ and get a chilton or haynes repair and maybe one on Chevy small blocks. They are cheaper than the factory repair manuals, not as in depth info, but still have much good info. Good luck with your 'bird.

 

Oh yea, random thought (I have them from time to time...): Be sure to put some oil on the outside of the damper snout, so it won't kill the seal as you install it again.

 

Good point Stekman. A little oil on the inside of the balancer will also aid in its install. A backyard way of installing it would be to get it started with a hammer and block of wood on the balancer(to prevent damage), once on enough start the bolt until it gets tight, tap w/hammer a tad more, snug bolt again, repeat until balancer is on, remove the crank bolt and put some blue locktite on and re-install to torque spec(don't want that bolt coming lose).

 

I would advice against using the damper bolt to pull the damper back onto the crank snout. Fun and games until you strip the first few threads on the crank and are forced to do a complete tear down. It's a damper hold down bolt, and aptly named as such. They make special tools to pull the damper back on, utilizing the full threads of the crank snout. Or do the threaded rod trick from the hardware store. Same thing. Much much cheaper.

 

OK
so I now have a new water pump, timing gears and timing gasket set.
I am all ready to attack this baby tomorrow morning.
So I'm thinking if I got a steel crank gear in there now like the one I bought today...I'm prob gonna leave it alone and install the new gasket set.
Should I replace the half round rubber gasket at that time or should I just leave alone since I'm getting the 1 pc oil pan gasket next weekend to re work the bottom end and check the caps etc?
Anyone ever seafoamed the engine to de-glaze it like a flush? Thinking of doing that because when I put brand new filter and oil in motor...it still came up black onto my rockers. Comments welcome or ideas/suggestions on that.
2 pc rear seal will get done next weekend too.
I'm just hoping I don't have any scarring on those bearings or I'll be a little upset to come across a problem after coming so far on this motor. But I don't hear any noise like I did when I got her.
By the way...the exhaust looks like it was hacked up and 3" welded...I'll measure that also while I'm at it tomorrow.
I agree with the pull rod for re-installing the damper. I have threaded rod....just not sure what size it is. I imagine 7/16 20 is a pretty fine thread so I'll prolly have to visit homedepot.
I'll update progress tomorrow.
Once again thanks to all for advice and suggestions.
I'm gonna have some pics about vac lines tomorrow and a couple of other things that I have no clue what they are.
There's like a vac cut out installed in the exhaust only on passenger side. Does not lead to anywhere...just seems to close the exhaust slightly. Why would that be there and for that matter, why only on one side??? There is no line attached to it...It was blocked off and the closing mechanism was sealed so as it could not operate.

Thanks

 

Replace the timing seal just before you're going to button it up for good. No use if you're taking the timing cover on and off again.

There's a few thoughts I've heard over the years on seafoam in the oil or similar. One is it's great, it cleans stuff up, etc. The other is that it can knock crud buildup loose and clog an oil passage. I side with the former. Personally I've run ATF for a short time in an engine (same effect as seafoam, cleans out the system), and it had no issues.

Again, take and post pictures of all bearings and crank journals. We'll help ID any problems, if they exist.

The vacuum thing on the exhaust manifold is part if the A.I.R. system, works on conjunction with the smog pump. In a nutshell, the smog pump (remember that? That's the bolt hole we told you needs to get plugged), is an air pump that puts air directly into the exhaust to help reduce emissions. The valve with the vacuum hookup basically meters the amount of air introduced into the exhaust. If you don't have the smog pump, the valve is pretty much pointless.

 

I should only need to remove the timing cover once eh?
I intend to install my waterpump and everything today. I don't want to take all that apart again, pulling the damper and all.
I'll know straight away if I need to do anything in there won't I?
By ATF you mean tranny fluid right?...What properties does it have to clean the engine? Why would someone need to do a tranny flush...if the atf does what you say? bold curiosity.
How much atf is safe to put in there? if I should do it.
Thing about ATF is that it gives me 1 ferocious headache.
I will consider this as an option. Though it won't be happening today.

 

You won't need the half-circle gasket for the bottom of the timing cover if you use a one-piece oil pan gasket.

Tranny fluid contains a detergent. Put a quart in and run your motor for a commute or two then drain. It still needs to be flushed from the tranny because, as an oil, it will still begin to lose its properties from heat and use.

Stekman's thinking of the AIR diverter valve mounted on top of the pass side manifold, up front. The valve between the manifold and the y-pipe is the EFE, or Early Fuel Evaporation valve. It closes a flapper valve to force exhaust gases to travel through intake manifold passages to the opposite side. During cold weather warm-up this heats the manifold and helps evaporate the fuel mixture for better cold weather operation. It is controlled by a Thermal Vacuum Switch (TVS) mounted on the water neck (next to the CTS). At this point it's probably non-functional and you need to cap the line going to the TVS. You can remove everything else.

The gear puller, damper remover and damper installer tools are each available at AZ, Advance Auto, O'Reillys, etc. for loan. You need to replace both timing gears.

 

The little plastic pieces could possible be your valve seals. Over time they will harden, crack, then piece by piece flow from inside of the spring down through the oil return holes on the head. That could be where it came from. That MAY also be the reason you are burning oil. If your intake valve seal is broken then oil will come through the valve guide into the cylinder.
Hope this helps

 

OK so here it is.
As per pics attached.....
Cam gear was shot....see attachment 1. Most of the plastic coating was gone and the chain was VERY loose. Is it possible that it had jumped timing?
When I removed the damper etc...I was sure to set the TDC...however not sure if that was #1 or #6 firing. I guess I shoulda had the rocker cover off for that..but I didn't. The 2 dots on the cam and crank gears were facing each other. That is how I re-installed them. Was this correct?
Attachment 2 is the new gears I installed. Sadly my camera died after that pic.

So I get it all buttoned up again, new pump and all new gasket set. (not oil pan, that's my next project..getting back under there)
Fill the oil back (might be a little shy on that side of it). Re-attach all water hoses and fill the water.
Now she's ready to crank.
It takes a few turns to get her going but she finally gives me what I want, just like the wife...lol.
seemingly a little revvy from the get go...a couple minutes and I cut the choke and she settles down, But does not seem right...and I know the valve lash will affect this to some degree.
I go digging out my timing light and let her run a while to be sure I am getting water flow. Eureka...I have flowing coolant.
Oil pressure is around 60 ish.
So I hook up the timing light and first I look at rpm...it's around 750-800.
I have the 4 pin plug detached on the distributor.
I switch to timing light and with it set to 0 degrees it's steady at about -16. I fiddle with the dissy and try to retard or whatever I did to get the TDC mark approaching zero, But she's not liking this one bit...really seems like that motor is trying to fire against itself. wierd. So I rotate back to settle the motor and cease the loping. I try setting my light to 6 degrees like I'm supposed to and retry...same thing...bad loping and nasty running.
The motor will time at 20 degrees and rev at around 760 and reasonably settled but still with a wee stutter..I can hear ticking under the valve covers...more so the drivers side...sounds like #5 mostly. The same is reflected out of the exhaust... a definite murmur.
Still a wee bit smoky out the exhaust but I can't tell really what colour it is..looks kinda whitey blue...not black like it's running rich. but I might be wrong there.

No noise whatsoever is coming from underneath.
I am amazed with the progress but seem to be no further forward than this morning. I'm glad to have that cam gear out of there though...I can tell ya.

So...any more ideas guys??
Am I missing something I should have done? Or not done something right?

Edit for mr blahblah....It was defo the camgear that the plastic tore apart from...See attachment 1 below.

 

Yes you should set the timing chain with the two dots facing each other. When you set the ignition timing remember to time it at TDC on #1 cylinder while it is on it's compression stroke. If it does not start then you are one full revolution off. This happened to me today

 

When setting the timing with the EST disconnected, it's not going to run very well with base set at 6 (or near there). You may even have to turn in the idle set screw just to get it to idle while setting it. Once the EST is reconnected, though, the ECM will put back in the timing the motor needs to run smoothly.

And that motor's crying for some engine degreaser. When you get it running take it to one of those spray car washes with a can of foaming degreaser. The car wash is required to have an oil/water separator that will take care of the gunk you wash off.

 

My post above describes how almost good it was running today.
I don't think it's 180 out. It would not start at all if I recall.
I don't have trouble starting the motor now.
I did when I bought the car at xmas.
My project has come a long way to this point.

 

I see...I think.
What would you suggest I time it at naf?
I'm so close here I can taste it...mmm.
like I said earlier. The motor sounds alot smoother when it shows me tdc at 20 degrees on my light.
I'm not understanding this part at all it would seem.
If I understand you...I should increase idle, set timing to 6 (should it strobe at 0 i.e. TDC when my advance is 6 or strobe at 6. This confusing me here), Stop motor, Reconnect the EST, restart and then the ECM will fix the timing.
Excuse my retardedness here but I've never had to do that before. Always just straight timing on a 4 cylinder car.
Thanks for your valuable time once again man.

And I intend for a good cleaning of that motor dude.
Soon as I feel right with it and can run it on the road.
It was like that when I bought it and it spent a couple of weeks on my boss's car hauler which I didn't want to mess up with oil.

 

I was able to time my camaro with everything connected, you shouldn't have to disconnect anything. I think that if you time it while it's disconnected that it will run funny when you connect it. 20 degrees advanced sounds really high. Mine is set at 12 degrees advanced and that with a high lift cam. I believe that I had it set at about 6 degrees advanced with stock cam. hold the rpms at around 1500 or so while timing the engine, get it running smoothly. once it runs smooth let off the gas some to let it get near idle, and if it tries to stall set the idle higher

 

Just so you do know.... You have to disconnect the EST wire to properly set the timing. Any knowledgeable third-gen'r knows that.

 

Base timing is set at idle speed, not 1500.

Astro: unhook your EST, start the motor. The idle speed thing naf refers to is bumping the idle up just high enough to where the motor doesn't stall out while base timing is being adjusted (if needed). Since your gun has an advance dial, I would suggest using the gun to determine the advance, since the 0° mark on the tab is the largest and easiest to determine. Adjust the dial to whatever makes the damper timing etch align with the 0° mark on the tab. I would suggest trying in the 10° range, maybe 12° or so. It's also possible that, with age, your stock damper ring has shifted in relation to the hub, so while it may appear as "x" degrees of timing, it might be something different in reality.

6° on the dial and 0° on the tab is the same thing as 0° on the dial and 6° on the tab.

 

Even with the EST disconnected the Ignition Control Module will still throw in some advance if the rpm's are high enough. You want to keep them below 1000 when setting.

Base timing should be set to between 0 and 6, depending on model. It should say on the data plate/sticker under the hood. Your base timing sets the point from which the ECM adds timing. With the EST reconnected the timing will be around 22 or so at idle and idle will be smoother and may need to be adjusted back down.

The ECM doesn't know where base is set, it only knows how much to add.

 

let me pop in a quick reply right now and post better later.
Son wants to play on computer for a while. Like all day wasn't enough...lol.
I do have the ECM thing on the dissy unplugged.
I'm not sure that damper shift comes into play since the mark was exactly on zero when I removed it and the timing gears were dot to dot exactly.
That is why I re-installed everything like that.
I have to be missing something. I'll re-read this whole article and think hard what I may have not done...but I'm sure I followed all the right advice you guys have given me.
I probably need to lash properly before I can get it right eh?
Truly grateful for all.

Thanks.

 

It's not a matter of the crank rotating, which is what you are thinking. It's a matter of the design of the stock damper and age. Assuming you have stock damper, it's made of 3 things: inner hub (holds the damper to the crank), the outer ring (the actual damper part), and the 2 are bonded together by the elastomer ring (looks like the rubber o-ring pressed between the 2). If new, they are in exact position to eachother; meaning the crank key way (inner hub) is at x degrees, the timing notch (outer hub) will be at y degrees. Over time, the outer hub can slip. This means that now, even though the crank will still be at x degrees, the timing notch may be at y+10 degrees. This will completely alter your timing settings, since you time via the notch.

 

astrosurfer, how many miles are on your car? I didn't know GM tried to use plastic coated cam gears again in the '80s. My '84 T/A has about 146K miles. I wonder if I should think about installing a new timing set!

 

OK
I understand what you mean, although there is no pressure on that part I can see how it's possible.
At the weekend I'll achieve TDC with a rod in #1 port and look at the timing mark and compare.
Thanks for this lil' possible tidbit.
I understand what the effect could be, now that it's pointed out.
If it's off I could simply mark with paint or so could I not and re-time the motor with correct mark. Per say.
I looked at a replacement and it's $47.99 at AZ.
Not too pricey but I'll do the test first just to confirm.
It will eventually rack up if I fix every little nook and cranny that's worn.
My plan is to run this short term while I learn on it then sell it and get a white one and have knowledge.
But might keep it a while. I'm still indecisive. I'd like to paint and re-stripe it if I'm gonna keep it. Original black and gold, with the addition of the hood bulge bird.
I had another couple of pics to put up of things on top of the motor that I didn't know what they were, but I can't find them right now. I'll do it another day.

*Dens71TA
I believe it's either 79K or 179K...but I'm shooting for the latter.
Look at my cam gear...how shot up does that look.
I think I caught it in time before it jumped timing and messed up alot of stuff.
I haven't had this car on the road yet. I bought it as a xmas present for myself...lol. As a project car.
When it's running and road worthy I'll sell my '00 firebird and get me a white 3rd gen trans am or firebird and possibly make this a race car or sell it on...not sure what I'm gonna do til the time comes.

 

Remarking it works fine. If you want to me a little bit more high end, get some timing tape and put that around the damper. Of course, knowing exact TDC is a prerequisite.

 

high end is not an option right now bud...
I'll check and re-mark it if necessary. Then I'll consider a new damper since I'll know it needs replacing. I'd actually feel guilty to sell it knowing it was wrong. Such a simple thing too.
Thanks again for the heads up bud.

First thing I do at weekend is lash valves.
I need to work saturday all day...so I'm not looking at getting under the car at all to look at the caps.
Top end work is the weekend agenda.
I'm thinking my valve stem seals might need done.
That's prob gonna mean pulling the heads.
I have a query as to why the valves get a 3 angle grind?
I've always done just 1....what's up with that?

thanks

 

No need to pull the heads to install seals. A search will turn up a few alternatives.

 

I know of the way to use a compressor and pressurize the chamber.
I have no compressor. And to buy one would cost more than a set of gaskets.
Plus I could do a good cleaning of the ports etc.
It's an option I may be faced with.
Burning oil could be attributed to bad seals,or the rings, and less compression in #1 and #7 could be attributed to poorly seated valves, or the rings.
Who knows when the heads were last done. It's gonna be a last resort measure if I still have stammering. It's got to be something doing it.
However I'm still gonna lash them valves at the weekend and take it from there.
If there's another way except for pressurizing the chamber, I'm all ears.
I guess I could use a spring compressor and a magnet to hold the valve up with each piston at TDC for each cylinder I work on. But I'd expect that to be a bit of a PITA. I'm game though.
Challenges'r'us.

 

Try a search for valve seals and nylon rope.

 

thanks man
You're just a well of information dude.
I wish you lived in WALKER..LOL
You'd have free food,beer, whatever you needed...LOL
A bed in my spare room...lol.

I've never heard of this in my life...That's actually quite wicked...

 

Glad I can help. Once upon a time, I was in your shoes. With a car I knew nothing about, this site was a godsend. Just trying to pass on the helpfulness.

 

thanks man
I appreciate every little tidbit. They're like doggie treats when they work...lol
Now if it was a little 4 banger like I've had all my life, I'd be all over it like a rash.
there's just so much going on with this motor that I'm sort of awe struck if ye get me.
I'm loving all the data I'm absorbing about it and all the help has made me all the more knowledgeable now.
My thread is getting long now.
Hopefully I'm getiing close to the end.
I'm actually trying to keep it all together in the 1 thread but of course if I have Q's about other stuff I'll ask in the appropriate areas and start another epic...lol.
I hate that spread out stuff about different issues with the same engine. Gets on my nerves.
I'll be in this thread til I'm done motor-wise.

Thanks so much again.
I am truly humbled with the response from you guys.

Edit:
Instead of double posting this
I recall that my O2 sensor wire does not hook to anything.
Where should it plug in...I can find no wire for it. The end actually seems to be burnt off.
I can post a pic at weekend. I think I might have 1.
If I find it before then I'll post it up.

Edit 2:
Anyone got input on the 3 angle grind?
I've always done them with a drill and cutting paste. Never a 3 angle grind.
This is new to me.
Really thinking about the head work.
Full gasket set only $49. Includes stem seals and exhaust gaskets etc from oreilly's.

 

There is another wire that runs next to the wire for the gauge sensor in the driver's side head. Each one is in some small black plastic wire loom and they clip into a little metal bracket above the exhaust manifold so they don't burn up.
Without the O2 sensor the engine controls won't go into closed loop.

 

OK
Today I got home with enough light left to lash my valves.
This did not go very well for me.
Told you I didn't understand all this...LOL. But it's my fault I know.
I followed stekmans directions from #1 TDC through #6 TDC
Adjusted all the relevant valves in order.
When I turned it back to #1 tdc to check it all, They were ALL loose again.
I started the motor but there was too much actual noise around me to ear any tapping.
I stopped the motor and went through the process again.
This time when I attempted to start the motor, it just turns over and won't fire.
Actually it did fire....right up through the carb and I had a small fire going on....WT heck?
So here's what I'm thinking.
I had over done the lash and none of the valves were actually seating when the cam started moving. I don't understand this because all the rods were again loose.
repeated attempts to start were a big FAIL.

As it stands right now...I have backed all the rocker nuts off to the top of their threads and the rockers are all loose.
Now I know I can't start the motor like this..I'm not retarded. I'll let the motor sit til sunday and redo the lash on a cold motor.
I'm thinking the oil was being pushed out of the hydraulics (tappets?) that actuate the rods with the pressure of tightening the rocker nuts...(is this right).
I'm thinking I'll do the valve stem seals and set each lifter again cold.
I got to say I am honestly not understanding this part apparently.

Once again...PLEASE help...LOL

Thanks fellas

Edit:
Also it was mentioned earlier in the thread about changing the rear main seal.
Can this be done easily with the motor in the car?
I'm reading that it's really a PITA to do with motor in car.
Would I need to drop the tranny?

 

The backfiring through the carb sounds like the lash was set too tight, and the valves were cracked open during combustion a tad.

What was the process you followed? There's several ways to adjust lash, some ways work better for some people, than others. You're setting the lash when the valve is fully closed (lifters have to be on the base of the cam), right? Also, what is your measurement of "zero lash?" I jiggle the pushrod up and down. Spinning the pushrod is somewhat shaky since it can continue to spin even after the slack has been removed.

Edit: RMS
For 2 piece RMS', no the trans doesn't have to come out. Oil pan obviously off, oil pump off, rear main cap off. It helps to loosen all the main caps so the crank has a little room to move, otherwise it would be fairly easy to butcher the top half of the seal as you're placing it. Pretty straight forward.

 

My apologies...it was not your guide stekman...sorry
post 18 in this thread...J91 wrote a guide for me to lash the valves.
Like I said I have all loose right now and will fool with it on sunday.
Really puzzled why they would go slack again after initial lash...then be too tight with pushrod spin...I just don't get it.

 

Sounds as if they were adjusted when the lifter was not fully on the base of the cam (zero lobe lift). If they're adjusted while the lifter is up in it's bore, yes, you take slack out of the pushrod, but once the lifter drops back down in the bore (base of the cam), now your "zero lash" suddenly fell off since the lifter wasn't all the way down.

Run a search for the EOIC method. One of the most simple ways.

 

J91's directions for adjusting the valve lash is correct. Its right out of the factory service manual. Maybe you were really on #6 when you started and not #1. I've used the same method on several other engines and have never had a problem.

 

This one's gonna be lengthy...LOL
Thanks to all who read also.

Did that and to my surprise found several ways.
Thanks.
While I agree with the EOIC method...here's another I found, What you reckon....?
#1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
#8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
#4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
#3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
#6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
#5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
#7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
#2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve

repeat for exhaust.
Now that makes perfect sense that the complete opposites get done because they will be at exact base of the cam.

Now I'm not saying that J91's method is wrong.
I had the above describe problem last night.

So here's the deal.
I'm installing new valve stem seals tomorrow.
I'm using the rope in the cylinder method.
Earlier I dismantled the setup for #1 exhaust just to try the new seals out.
They're the cheapo ones from oreilly...the only 1 they stock in stores. 16 required per vehicle. So they're all the same basically.
I get the spring off etc and find NO valve stem seal there. Weird I say.
Now where could that blue smoke be coming from then?? Hmmmm!!
Anyhoo. I place the new rubber seal over the valve stem and it's too big for the base, Or am I missing something. That's gonna pull up and down with the stem since it's sealing rubber properties will hold it to the stem...no?
I'm now thinking that the Inner spring of the valve springs keeps it in place.
Anyways I call Orielly's and it's the only 1. But to me it doesn't fit.
I've always installed seals which push over the bell on the actual head and stay there, allowing the stem to move through the seal, Not the seal moving up and down with the lifter.
Could I get some clarification on this someone.
Anyways I then look on AZ site and they list it as 2 different products for Intake and Exhaust.
Little more pircey though but worth it to not have o wait til monday.
Now the exhaust seals are nylon with an oring for the second groove in the stem.
Again...never had to do that before...new one on me. doesn't look like it will seal the stem at the actual cylinder entry shaft...or maybe it will and I'll look silly...But nylon, I'm thinking won't seal for long. I don't get that..sorry.
The intake seals are like what I've installed before. Springs around little rubber seals that will apparently shove onto something and stay there.
With an oring for the second grove.

What I notice is that the nylon bottom seal and the rubber seals from orielly's are the same sizes almost except that the rubber ones are tightish on the stem. I haven't tried the nylon ones on yet since it was dark when I got back.

I'm mostly concerned as to why there would be no seal on there when I took off #1 exhaust spring etc....

And so sorry for the long post again.

and dens71ta I'll check there...Looked at the wiring diagram and should be a purple wire...thanks.
I know it needs hooked up for closed loop now...I think I know what that is.
I'll google it to refresh my memory.