i just redid my head gaskets and im trying to set up the rocker arms, i do understand how to begin the process but what is zero lash and how do you find it?

 

Zero lash is the point where all the slack in the valvetrain is just taken up.

 

so wiggling it and tightening it until it stops wiggling is zero lash? kinda sorta?

 

That works. There'll still be side-to-side motion, but all the up-and-down motion play will be gone.

 

I always took the pushrod in between my first finger and thumb and spun it while tightening the adjuster, once the pushrod gets major resistance or stops spinning it is zeroed

 

i do the same..........once that is done add 1/2-3/4 turn and the lash is complete

 

Once you have major resistance or it stops spinning you've usually bottomed out the plunger in the lifter. You have to feel for when resistance just barely starts.

 

thanks alot, can you tell me which valves are intake and exhaust, i removed them all so i cant tell which ones which their all at the same level

 

E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E

 

either way you look its the same on both sides? passenger and driver side

 

Same on both sides.

 

perfect, thanks

 

hey apeiron, i set the number one piston at tdc and adjusted the first half of the valves, than i turned the crank over one full turn and this i asume put it at #6 piston tdc and some of the valves i adjusted in the first set are now loose... is this normal? when i bring the #1 piston back to tdc their all back to where i adjusted them.

 

You probably had the #1 piston at TDC on the exhaust stroke. You need it on the firing stroke to use that method.

 

which ones did you adjust.
there are only certain ones you should adjust. Not all the valves on one side.
That will result in loose valves for sure.
Maybe I'm just reading you wrong but it sounds like that's what you're getting at.

 

when i set #1 piston at tdc i adjusted exhaust valves 1,3,4,8 intake valves 1,2,5,7 . than i turned the crank all the way around one full turn and i was going to tighten exhaust 2,5,6,7 intake 3,4,6,8 but i noticed that some were loose that i just tighend so i just stopped their

 

how do you get piston 6 to tdc?

 

#6 is at TDC at the same time at #1 is.

 

so than, how do you set the other half of the valves? someones instructions on one of the threads said set #1 piston to tdc than adjust exhaust valves 1,3,4,8 intake valves 1,2,5,7 than set #6 piston on tdc and adjust exhaust valves 2,5,6,7 intake 3,4,6,8. Is #6 piston on firing postion when number #1 is at exhaust tdc position?

 

Turn the engine to #1 TDC at the top of the compression stroke. #6 will be at the top of the exhaust stroke at this point. Lash the appropriate valves. Turn the crank over 1 full turn. Now #6 is at TDC at the top of the compression stroke and #1 is at the top of the exhaust stroke. Lash the rest of the valves.

 

got it so the reason some of my valves were loose was because i basiclly adjusted the valves backwards?

 

Pretty much. Valves have to be lashed on the base circle of the cam. Some of your valves were up on the lobes, so when you turned the engine over they came off the lobes and you got a bunch of slack back.

 

Just do them one by one. As the exhaust valve just starts to open adjust the intake to zero lash, and as the intake valve just starts to close adjust the exhaust to zero lash + 1/4 turn or so depending on what you motor likes.

Seth

 

That method works, too. There's more than one way to skin this particular cat.

 

okay saying that i did it the way i first mentioned i tightened them 1/2 turn and now that i did all of them they look to be abouts the same thread showing as when i stripped the motor down to begin with, should i only have done 1/4 turn?

 

Half a turn is alright. The idea is to have the plunger somewhere around the middle of it's travel, which is usually around 2 full turns or so. Anywhere between 1/2 and 1 1/2 turns will be fine.

 

thanks, i think its all been done right now. hopefully it fires up clean tomorrow when i seal it up

 

incase anyone cares, i turned the car on today after using the half and half method for adjusting the valves (and after Apeiron holding my hand through it lol thanks for helping me find true tdc #1 piston) it fired up immediatly and i dont hear any ticking and the car runs like a champ, thanks for all the help.

 

hey Apeiron what were you meaning by lash the valve on the base cirlce of the came not the lope. the lope is the nipple in the middle that is held down by a snap ring? and the base ring would be the lower circle? cuz i did all the by putting the cam dead on top of the nipple and adjust it that way. or am i just confused or do i need to take it apart and redo it? , it sounds like its running fine... if not better than before when i put the motor in a year ago

 

.... he said the base of the cam circle and the lobe not lope. Your cam looks like half an egg (sort of) the flat side would be the base circle and the pointed side is the lobe. as the cam turns the lifter is riding on the profile of the cam, once the pointed side comes around it begins to lift the lifter which pushes the pushrod and rocks the rocker arm down ... who ever named the parts kept it nice and simple..... you have to adust zeo lash on the flat side of the cam since its at the lowest point it could possibly at.
A cam
http://midstateantiquestockcarclub.c...be-250x229.jpg

this is a lifter riding on the cams base circle
https://www.thirdgen.org/tech/images..._m754c8cf9.png

 

hey just finished the head job again!!! i had a crack in one head... anyways i adjusted and closed up the engine and all components, i tried to start the car but no combustion... and im not getting any spark, but the car turns over, is their a chance i did the valves backwards? with #6 piston on tdc instead of #1 tdc? or did my distributor go out? (i checked and the Distr. is getting power, i also had a spare ignition module and replaced it but nothing. maybe the pick-up coil?)

 

Not getting spark won't have anything to do with the valves.

 

will it turn over normally if i adjusted them backwards?

 

If you'd done that you'd have noticed a bunch of loose valves.

 

okay, i gotcha.. thanks.

 

is the ignition module hooked up...should be 3 plugs to connect on a stock hei distributor cap.........one for the batt one for the tach and on for the ignition module................also check the distributor button to make sure it isnt broken or burnt out

 

yea all connections are solid, triple checked them, is the distributor button under the coil?

 

yes it is