I would like to know what is necessary to run a dry sump oiling system on a regular small block chevy? i have priced out some parts and they do not seem that expensive. I found LS7 oil components on SDparts for rather cheap, all i would need is the oil pan after that...
are there any block modifications that need to be done? if so what would they be? The dry sump oiling has two benefits that i like, crankcase vacuum, and better oil control for more hp...
thanks for the help.

 

the actual pump setup can cost a couple thousand dollars

unless its a roadrace car, its not worth the effort

i think you may be confusing a dry sump with a crankcase vacuum pump setup, that is what produces crankcase vacuum

 

Not that expensive? What kind of stuff are you looking at?

A basic 3 stage pump is around $880 (2 scavenge pumps and one oil pump)
Drive kit $200
Pan $200
Scavenging manifold $230
Oil tank $450
Misc lines, fittings, brackets $500

You can have a complete dry sump oil system for around $2000-$2500.

No block modifications are required. The pump is mounted alongside the block and is belt driven. The scavenge pumps pull the oil from the pan and put it into the external tank. The pump pulls the oil from the tank and feeds it back into the engine through a filter adapter.

Here's a bunch on info on dry sump systems
http://www.moroso.com/articles/artic...mpSystems.html

 

Dry sump stuff is expensive but worth it in some cases.

 

 

 

This is a general list of stuff you’ll need if you do this.
cooler sizes would change based on power output. Tank sizes will vary based upon where you can put the reservoir. Also sanctioning bodies dictate catch can requirements etc etc.
Fitting angles are totally dependent on where all of your components end up and also bulkhead fittings may need to be purchased.
You’ll need to also install a block off plate on your #5 cap or plug the oil port.
Hose type and tubing is totally up to you but if you use flex hose you should insert the stainless support coil into the suction lines so they don’t collapse.
Also consider installing piston oil squirter jets because the higher vacuum in the crank case and lack of oil in the pan can cause oil to not be delivered to the wrist pins sufficiently.
If you plan to make a change to your motor design plan it from the beginning.
Or install an EDM connecting rod that feeds oil up to the wrist pin.
The benefits in performance and reliability are truly unmatched.

 

The OP got an answer to his question 14 years ago and the thread ended. OP hasn't even been logged into the forum since 2015.
Or just keep digging up every ancient thread about dry sumps and keep posting information nobody cares about.

 

You probably don’t care but some people search this stuff and want to know how to do this stuff, what is involved and the cost. Well and as you know prices have increased a lot. I share because I couldn’t find any real good information at one source and I actually love both of my 3rd gen’s. Ones OE and the other is far from it. So your response doesn’t speak for everyone and there ambitions, your entitled to do as you please on this forum as am I. As long as there within the guidelines, have a nice weekend.

 

Well for what is it worth on this old post I got curious about the possibility myself and found it useful. So thanks for posting that information on what was a old thread.

 

If this was directed at TomBowman it's been over a year since he logged into the forum. He threw a hissy fit in a different thread and left, promising not to return. Probably still building some really cool dry sump system of some kind in his garage with hopes of someday finding a use for it in something. But I'm sure he would be glad to know his threads helped someone.