I still have a few problems with my engine after my TPI swap I did earlier this year at spring time.

My swap was to my 87 LG4 engine. The engine was before a computer controlled quadrajet carb that worked good.. the idle was smooth and the car was very smooth to drive. Anyway since I just like this TPI system so much i wanted to swap. I found a complete setup for a 88 305 TPI engine, and I have bought new ALL of the sensors and got remanufactured the injectors. There are new filters and new fuel lines and ++. Everything should be brand new.

I will now try to explain my problems:

1. Idle: The idle has been very weird since the swap. I am idling on 900RPM and the idle is pretty smooth, but what I m trying to say is that when I am going to adjust the idle (with the IAC fully out) the car stalls at 500RPM. I don't know why but the car is getting very rough and unstable idle if I go under 600RPM. Does anyone know what could cause this?

2. Decceleration: This is my second problem. When driving the car around at speeds of 30-60 MPH the car is not deccelerating at all..If I put foot on gas pedal to get 60mph on flat road. And then let off my foot. The car stays at 60mph...I need to push the brake pedal almost hard to get the car slow down. If I drive in 50MPH and completely stop the car with hard braking, and put the transmission in PARK, the RPM jumps up to almost 2000RPM and slowly decreases to 900 RPM...

Is there anybody out there that knows what could cause my problems??
I really appreciate all the help I can get. By the way I have a MAF system.

 

I had that problem b4, i think your EGR vacuum lines arnt routed right or the egr solenoid isnt working. the egr valve purges the exhaust gass when slowing down and drops the rpms. when i disconnect my egr solenoid to test it i plugd the vacuum lines and drove it around, scary too, the rpms never came down, its would kinda backfire too. also you have a TCC switch under the dash by your feet, it could be keeping the torque converter lockup-locked up engaged so its not returning to fluid mode and the direct drive from your wheels to your rear diff through the tranny to the locked up converter to the engine crank shaft and keeping you rolling fast. try to put the gear into Neutral and slow down if that helps then its your TCC switch by your brake pedal. its the switch with a vacuum line going to it. and also check the vacuum line route to the egr solenoid and egr valve. vacuum test both the solenoid and the Egr valve. If going at 50 and you put the gear in neutral and the engine rpms come down then its your TCC switch BUT if when in neutral going 50 your engine rpms dont come down then its vacuum/egr related...Aalso test the solenoid and check valve on the fuel vapor canister(could be purge vapors into the manifold all times) next to time the car.

Ground the A and B terminals at the dianostic link by your knee while in the car, turn the key to on Not start, wait thirty seconds (the electric fans should be on) after thirty seconds unplug the connector to the IACV (idle air control valve) turn the key off, remove the ground from the A and B terminals on the diagnostic link under the dash, and then unplug the Tan wire under the hood (same wire that disconnected to time the engine. next start the car, have an assistant hold the brake while shifting to drive, get under the hood and adjust the throttle body blade(idle adjust) to 450RPM. next shift back into park, time the engine to 6*BTDC, and turn off car. turn the key to on, and probe the Tps top two wire connecters to the TPS and adjust the TPS to .555volts. next re check the idle with your assistant with the car running and the tranny in drive, adjust if its not 450rpms and turn off car. reconnect the Tan wire (timing wire) and reconnect the Idle air control valve IACV it should solve the stalling problem.

now with the 50-60 mph problem, try checking the throttle body with the ducting off to see if the vacuum passaged in the throttle body are clogged. but most likley its the TCC switch or EGR not exhausting gas in the manifold when deacelerating. its supposed to create a 80% non burning able enviroment so there no fuel to burn thus decreasing the engine RPM's.

In general having the rpms not coming back down is scary, i hit a curb and jacked the alignment at 50MPH nearly spun out because of some black ice on the road, i broke the bead on the tire and it sounded like a gunshot at 1am in the morning. i got the hell out of there. ahhaa, and but try picking up a vacuum pump. and testing those, if you need more explaining about how to exactly test those component or you need vacuum diagrams im sure i could help there.

 

woow...really some good helping tips here..Thanks alot...
I am going to tell your more about my problems at the swap. I don't think it has something to do with the TCC clutch because that clutch is working. As soon as I touch the brake pedal the TCC disengages and RPM raises a little, but the car is not braking down. I have had the code 32 a couple of times also so I find the EGR system guilty when it comes to the RPM problem.

Here is what I have done to my EGR system. Since I needed a new EGR solenoid for my system, I bought one new from Rockauto. That solenoid is one of the newer types but has the same function. It is actually a replacement part for the TPI solenoids. I also bought a new connector pigail that fits in to that solenoid. The solenoid is basically just a vacuum switch that is being grounded by the ECM. But I am not sure if I have used the correct wires on the ports. There are A and B ports on the wires that comes from the solenoid. I am not sure what colour should be at what colour at the wiring harness if you know what I mean. There was to other colours on the wires on the new pigtail connector, than the colours on the wiring harness from before.

But anyway. The EGR valve is brand new so that one should be working.
The vacuum lines on the EGR system has correct routing because I have double checked that. But it could have something to do with the solenoid itself, I mean if the solenoid does not have the correct wiring?

I think the problem is with the EGR because when I completely stop the car and put gear in PARK the RPM raises high, so that explains the theori about the exhaust gasses inside the engine.

I will try to adjust timing and take that proseidure again..