I'm in process of removing A/C from my 1992, and I want to relocate my alternator to pass side. I've seen under the hood of a 1987 IROC, and that's the setup I'd like - just the water pump, p/s, alt, crank. I'm searching for these brackets - I've found alternator bracket and got the crank pulley and water pump pulley.

Can I just swap pulley for the p/s pump?
Can I use my driver-side alt and just move it to pass side?

I know I'll have to swap to a standard rotation waterpump (since my serp pump is reverse).

Any info appreciated! Thanks!

 

ttt

 

are you going to strictly v-belt or doing the split serp/v-belt you find on the 87 model year? The alternator should be usable but you may have to reclock it (careful not to drop those brushes). Depending on the belt setup you're going to, you may have to swap the pulley on the alt as well.

as for the power steering pump, both the v-belt and serp belt pumps used the same size shaft, so you can swap to the other style pulley. However, you may run into issues with how the hoses hook up if you're changing sides.

 

I've finished the bracket swap over - through trial and error I answered my own questions. Turned out to be more than just a bracket swap - everything had to be swapped - but it made me happy. I used the 1/2 serp and 1/2 v-belt setup from the 1987 IROC. Here's a run-down:

P/S system: The p/s pump was fine - just needed p/s bracket from a 1987 IROC, and the v-belt pulley for it.

Water Pump: Had to be swapped for a 1987 car - my original 1992 water pump was reverse rotation because of the serp belt system, so it had to go in favor of the 1987 standard rotation pump. Also, the earlier years water pumps have the mounting spots for the earlier accessory brackets, which the serp water pump doesn't.

Alternator: The alternator bracket from the 1987 won't work, since I'm carbed, and the IROC has the TPI plenum - the alternator bracket from the 1987 connects to the TPI plenum. So I purchased an old school alternator bracket from local auto parts store in chrome that connects to intake, water pump, and pass head - a two piece design very similar to the 1987 bracket - the only difference being the connect point at the top is on the intake instead of the plenum. In addition, the 1987 style alternator had to be swapped in - the alternator from the serp setup does not have mount points at 6oclock and 12 oclock, which is required for these older bracket designs.

The crank pulley also had to get swapped so that there was a v-belt groove available for the p/s.

The A/C was deleted, and an A/C Delete Heater Box was installed.

All this got rid of the big bulky ugly serp brackets, cleaned up the bay alot with the A/C delete and NO delete pulley, and maintained a nice serp belt to the important stuff (alt and water pump). And even though I had to replace water pump and alternator, it was all done for hundreds less than a March or similar setup. I'll try to get pics up tomorrow.

 

Did you know that v-belts use up a LOT more horsepower than serpentine belt's do? I think you loose somewhere around 5-10 HP over a serpentine system. V-belts grip the pulleys by constantly locking and unlocking the belts tapered section from the pulley. Just something to think about if your trying to squeeze every HP out of your car.

 

Not really looking to squeeze any hp out - just wanted a nice clean engine bay. I'm kinda on the fence, not all show, but not all go either. Just trying to make want I have in my mind as a nice clean street ride - not a drag monster, and not a trailer queen. I really like the end result, and I'll get some pics up as soon as I get the wiring mess I created cleaned up enough to see. After the bracket swap, and the A/C delete, I jumped in and started cutting out unneccessary wiring left over from the computer. Hopefully a few more days of tracing and hacking, and I'll have a few pics up.

 

Just about all of the engine harness is removable if you want to really clean things up rather than just cut the wires. You can disconnect the harness at the bulk-head, and removing the fender (or just the liner if you have a good reach), you can pull the ECMs connectors thru. After that, using a shop manual with wiring diagrams like the chiltons, you just pick out the wires you need, and remove the rest by pulling them out of the harness and disconnecting them from the bulkhead connector. Thats what I did when I removed my TBI harness for SFI. Basically your just left with a small harness that can be run alone or in parallel with a new harness.