Issue with alternator stud on serpentine conversion, need help
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 646
Likes: 1
From: Sedalia, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi 4th gen 10-bolt
Issue with alternator stud on serpentine conversion, need help
I have a 1988 GTA with a 305 out of a 1985 IROC. So it has perimeter bolt valve covers. When the engine was put in the car, I put the original serpentine setup the car had on the engine. Everything bolted up and was fine, but the stud on the back of the alternator that the positive wire goes to is now dangerously close to the valvecover. So close that it sparks when the engine is revved.
I have a 91 Camaro and that stud has a good amount of clearance between the alternator and centerbolt valve cover.
Does anyone that has put this setup on an engine with perimeter bolt valve covers have some kind of work around for this, or know of a way to correct it? Is there a way to remove that stud and put a different one there, or something? I'd appreciate the help. Thanks!
I have a 91 Camaro and that stud has a good amount of clearance between the alternator and centerbolt valve cover.
Does anyone that has put this setup on an engine with perimeter bolt valve covers have some kind of work around for this, or know of a way to correct it? Is there a way to remove that stud and put a different one there, or something? I'd appreciate the help. Thanks!
On Probation
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,319
Likes: 19
From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: Issue with alternator stud on serpentine conversion, need help
Sorry I didn't see this thread until now. I have been there and resolved that. This was back when I pulled the LO3 out of my '88 Camaro for a carbureted 350. First, I tried aluminum valve covers, then grinding, then JB Weld. That got replaced with Chrome covers and LG4 hold down spreaders, with cork gaskets. Then came rubber gaskets because they were thinner. Then I just spaced everything out away from the engine with washers. That helped, but wouldn't pass tech at the dragstrip. Then I tried a strip of rubber around the stud, let it stay put by being pinched. It didn't stay put. I tried silicone, that somewhat worked, but again, wouldn't pass tech inspection. I finally drilled out the holes, did some grinding and filing, cut some aluminum fuel line tubing, and offset the alternator another 1/16 of an inch. That helped, and passed tech. I finished by taking some tin snips to the valve cover, and failed tech again. So close. I removed everything from the stud, put one connector eyelet back on it, then put the nut on it with loctite, then hacksawed the rest of the stud off. I spliced all the wires to that one eyelet, and had a little more clearance. This passed tech, which surprised me. Alot of work, but problem solved well enough.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 646
Likes: 1
From: Sedalia, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi 4th gen 10-bolt
Re: Issue with alternator stud on serpentine conversion, need help
Thanks for the advice. I ended up pulling the alternator this morning and taking my dremel with a cutoff wheel t that stupid stud, safely shaved off about 1/8 inch and rounded the bottom where it was touching the valve cover. Now I have a little more than 1/8 inch clearance and I can also easily slide the rubber boot that covers the stud over it. So I guess it's all fixed now, it doesnt spark anymore.
On Probation
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,319
Likes: 19
From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: Issue with alternator stud on serpentine conversion, need help
Well, we both cut the stud, so I guess everyone else will, too.
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305, alternator, bolt, camaro, close, conversion, covers, fuel, generation, line, serpentine, stud, studs, swap, valve






