The ETecs were suggested for a 335, they would give 9.44:1. The TFS heads on that 335 would give 10.36:1. Changing the subject, the 08-304-8 cam would be okay with nitrous if you use a TCI-242962 converter, $360 at Summit. Changing subjects again, for a street 305 with an occasional 125 shot, I'd rather try a COMP 08-000-8 3312/3312-112 cam (custom order) with the TFS heads and flat-top pistons. It'll be better in every way, at any rpm, when not using the nitrous.

 

Thanks again. I really appreciate all the help.
I will take your advice and get the TFS and the custom comp cam. I still have some doubts, if you don´t mind.

1. What is 3312/3312 in terms of lift, duration etc.
2. Should i also get a torque converter? 2200, 2500?
3. Should i get the 1.6 roller rockers?
4. What do you think about this flat pistons:
https://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=765


Regards

 

That link was to some domed pistons that would give you about 11.7:1, far too much. The 3312 is 264 advertised duration, 212 duration at .050", and .488" lift with 1.5:1 rockers. 1.6:1 rockers would make it effectively 214 duration at .050", and .521" lift. There are a lot of cheap valvesprings that are advertised as being good for over .521" lift that shouldn't be run past .490" lift. With the 1.6:1 rockers, you really need COMP 26981-16 (not 26918-16) springs, and they are not cheap. A good second choice is COMP 982-16 springs installed big end down. If you're willing to get springs, then the rockers are worth doing. This cam would tolerate most any converter, from stock to 3000 stall, but again I suggest the TCI-242962. It's a good piece, at a good price.

 

Got you. If i chose to get the 1.6 rockers, can´t i use the springs that come with the TFS? They say max lift of .600. Does it really sucks, the ones that come with the heads?
Maybe i will go with the 1.5, I think the lift is good enough, and the rockers are less expensive ayway,

Wha is thedifference between 5700 and 6000 pistons? which one is better for my setup?

Thanks and have a nice weekend

https://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=764

https://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=762

Cheers

 

those springs will work, and 1.6:1 rockers generally are worth it. But if after you get the engine done, you put the car on a chassis dyno, and find any big dips in the torque curve that can't be tuned away, then you'll know why I suggested the COMP springs.

 

Wha is thedifference between 5700 and 6000 pistons? which one is better for my setup?

Thanks and have a nice weekend (thanks for the time)

https://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=764

https://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=762

 

What about the Engine Quest CH305A heads?

Cam

 

Going with a 5.7" rod lets you reuse your stock rods, while the 6" setup allows you to have a lighter reciprocating assembly. For performance use, the 6" set up is preferable. Choose the lightest rods you can find, they'll run you around $250-300 for a decent set, and figure another $100 for getting the crank rebalanced. You would only save about $100 at most by sticking with 5.7".

 

These are no better than LB9 heads.

 

Got you again. I promise you that this will be my final question/doubt.

What is the differece of getting a 112 or 114 lob separation cam? At the beginning i was gonna go for the 114 because i thought it would leave my iddle much like the stock one. Not that iddle that only cleans it up when you hit the gas pedal.

What do you think about the cam below? It is much like the one you suggested but with a 114lb.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-535-8/

Cheers man.

 

You're actually hitting on 3 issues here. First, LSA is widely quoted, and can be an indicator of overlap, which affects vacuum, idle, and low-rpm driveability. But screw indications, I need precision. So compare the valve events on the cam card, and you'll see that when you compare the 210/220-114 cam you first considered to the 212/212-112 cam I suggest, yours actually has more overlap. This is partly due to the lazy old lobes, and partly due to the excessive exhaust duration. And this last cam has the same problem of excessive exhaust duration. We're talking about a 305, so low rpm torque is extra important. And we're talking about TFS 175cc heads, which have great exhaust ports. Stop trying to find a dual-pattern cam. You're just creating extra, unnecessary, pointless work for yourself, and I'd rather you not stress yourself out.

 

What about the aluminum 113 cylinder heads?

Cam

 

113s, are those the 'vette/ZZ4 heads? Plenty of potential with good porting, but not that much better than the LB9s if not well-ported, and nowhere near the level of the TFS 175s. They don't need a dual-pattern cam, either. Whether stock, or correctly ported.

 

So, if I'm not going to do any porting on the heads...the LB9's will be just as good as any others?

Cam

 

And yea, the the 113's are aluminum vette heads.

Cam

 

Well, the LB9s are alot cheaper than either iron Vortec 350 heads or the TFS 175s, but if the ZZ4 heads can be had for a great price, they do save 50 pounds. Your latest cam choice would be good with the Vortecs.

 

What, the LT4 cam? I can get the LB9 heads for $136 shipped...I can get the 12558059 Vortec heads for $200 local...the 113 aluminum heads are about $400 shipped.

Cam

 

So, the Vortec heads are your best deal, and will do fine with that 210/218-114 cam you found.

 

BTW, that's kind of high for LB9 heads, around here they go for $80/pr. Even so, the Vortecs are still worth another $120, that's a steal, it works out to better than $5 per HP.

 

That was with shipping on the LB9 heads. The Vortec heads are local...so I should be picking them up tomorrow evening. How much hp are you thinking for with the 059s? What do you think about a LT4 cam with them? Any better cam options, that don't cost 2-3 times as much? I am also going to be converting to a carb. I am getting a Professional Products Vortec intake with the heads as well...though I don't know if I am going to use it or not...may try it at least. I am looking at an Edelbrock intake: Performer, Performer RPM, and the RPM Air-Gap. Which of these intakes do you recommend? Thanks again for all the help...I really do appreciate it.

Cam

 

059s? No, the Vortec 350 heads you want are casting numbers 906 or 062. Otherwise, they're no better than LB9 heads.

 

So on a 305, the LB9 heads are just as good as the 059 305 Vortec heads?

Cam

 

any more infos or recommendations towards those 6" rods?
this is a great 305 thread btw! thanks for all the info

 

Sadly, that's the way it is. I've had them on the flowbench. But them being local means you can inspect them before you buy. Don't buy without seeing them with an intake valve removed so you can verify which Vortec 305 port design it is. There were 2, and it'll be obvious to you if it's the good one or the bad one.

 

I'm not yet understanding what else you would like to know?

 

Well I did end up getting the 059 Vortec heads. I got them at a good price...along with a Professional Products intake and a GM HEI distributor. I am probably going to use a LT4 cam. I was looking at using a different intake at some point. I think that the PPs intake is like the Edelbrock Performer. I think that the Edelbrock Performer RPM or the RPM Air-Gap would probably work better with the 059 heads...or maybe a GM intake. Is there any intake that you would recommend over the others? I was wondering about the carb now. Would a Quadrajet work well with my other parts...or should I look at a different carb?

Cam

 

The 059 Vortecs are the 305 specific ones, from what I've been told by machine shops. I'm guessing this is because of the combustion chamber size, for compression reasons.

 

305 Vortecs also did not get the improved intake ports. Some 305 Vortec heads even have the swirl-port intake ports.

 

I really don't see the problem with milling the 350 Vortecs down for smaller CC's and higher compression. A few machine shops have told me to avoid this, for some reason. It doesn't make sense.

 

I've done it for dozens of my customers. Just remove the valves, flat mill, reassemble, check the final cc of the combustion chambers, life goes on. They are fine for as small as 53 cc this way, though I usually stop short to allow one rebuild later.