check it out. got sum questions tho... using ARP cap screws that came with the scat 5.7 rods... wats the tq specs on them? and wats the rod bolt stretch? not sure if im gona use a rod bolt stretch gauge or tq wrench. also need to know the ARP main bolts tq setting, as well as the ARP head bolts tq setting for aluminum heads? i thought it was less like 65ftlbs for aluminum heads. also all the headbolts enter the water jackets... so do i only use threadsealer? or oil and threadsealer for correct tq setting?

waiting to get my scat crank back from cnc motorsports so i can notch the block. i already gapped/file fit the JE sportsman rings. top ring to 0.020" and second ring to 0.022".

its a stock block 87 roller, 2bolt mains, bored .030", honed for moly rings, had to get the mains aligned bored. POR15 painted block as well as the valley.

motor specs...
383 9.8:1
SRP forged inverted dome pistons, JE rings gapped for mild nitrous street
SCAT 5.7" forged rods, ARP cap screws
SCAT 9000 cast crank, clevitte bearings all way around, melling high pressure pump + hardened drive, stock oil pan
ported HSR, port matched to felpro 1206
58mm TB, grannelli high flow MAF, kirban billet ADJFPR, 30lb ford SVO injectors
patriot aluminum 195cc heads, roller cam .600 lift dual springs, ported, polished combustion chambers, and exhaust ports, port matched to felpro1206
comp cams XFI 280 cam, 230/236 .571/.591 113 lobe.
1.6 aluminum full roller rockers, comp cams hardened pushrods
stock distributer with accel control module, MSD blaster coil, MSD rotor and cap, mallory 8mm wires.
All hardware is ARP, mains,heads,rods,cam,intake,flexplate, tq converter.


exhaust, trans and rear is in my sig with suspension mods. i will update continuously. just waiting on the crank

 

You should've gotten torque specs with the fasteners.
IIRC the headbolts are 65lb-ft. I think I torqued mine to 70. But then i'm using a shim gasket between my heads and block.
Use teflon sealant on the head bolts. The teflon supposedly lubes it like oil.

 

yea i got them with the headbolts/mains but ive been hearing that aluminum heads require less than whats specified since tq specs are for iron heads. i think ARP calls for 75 or something on the heads... but ive read not to go above 65 or something.

i got nothing with the scat rods... i have no idea on the tq specs/stretch for the ARP cap screws. Thats what i was hoping to hear that the teflon lubes like oil.

what shims did u use? i have felpro head gaskets but i think they are the ones with the steel combustion sealing ring, supposidly i cant use these with my heads bc they are aluminum?

these are the head gaskets i got...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-7733PT2/

 

I'm using FPP-1094 with copper spray.
I had different specs from the service manual to the arp bolts to the AFR heads. I pretty much just picked a number within the ballpark of the 3.

ARP bolts aren't supposed to stretch. They're not torque-to-yield.

Don't know about the combustion ring but......
39 compressed thickness??? Is your block zero decked? If not, you should get a thinner gasket for better quench.

 

how do u figure the ARP bolts arent gona stretch? all bolts stretch... im looking at a a HOT ROD annual from 1997...its an article on mighty mouse a 302 with a supercharger... they said "rod bolts are the most critical torque spec for any engine. A tq wrench can be fooled by any number of friction factors, so we used ARPs rod-bolt-stretch gauge to set the ARP rod-bolt stretch to .0065"."(they were crower I beam rods with ARP cap screws)

i was told not to use tq wrenchs on rod bolts and anywhere u can reach the front and back of the bolt... and always to use a rod bolt stretch gauge to accuratly read tq specs due to rod bolt stretch. i think ARP states this as well.

thats what i was trying to figure out... the comp ratio... my rotating kit that i purchased said i should have 9.8:1 with 64cc heads. my deck height is stock height 9.025". the pistons are -16cc dish pistons with a 1.425" comp height.

this is the kit i got but it was upgraded to SCAT cast crank/scat forged rods and i used the JE rings.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...D=26734&CtgID=

can anyone calculate the comp ratio that i have with a stock deck height and that kit? i would love to sqeeze alil more compression outa it with some thinner gaskets or some shims. im planning for a mild 100-150shot and im gona run 92-93 pump gas all the time.

 

all bolts will stretch i dont think that was what vipr meant i believe he is refering to the non reuseable bolts that are used in modern engines where they are first TQed down to a specific ftlb then they are tightend in sequence by say 80deg then again in sequence 80deg. stretching the bolt... this type should never be reused

 

Go on ARPs website or call them. They have a chart on trq spec's for each diff. type of bolt/cap screw they have.

If you cant find it on the site just call and talk to someone.

 

yea they use those bolts on the LS motors... i dnt see how that would apply rod bolts on a gen1 small block thats all. if thats what he meant (the type used on LS motors then ok... but i dnt think they make them for rod bolts.)

yea i figured i would have to call them and ask but i would avoid it if possible if someone here knew.

will felpro stock replacement permatq headgaskets be ok to use with aluminum heads?

 

so i calculated my comp ratio... with the .039" felpro i have 9.359:1 comp... alil low for my taste. so help me pick out a head gasket. remember i have a stock deck height 9.025". im guessing that my pistons will come up to the 9.0" deck mark since thats what is calculated in my BOB weight balancing card for my rotating assembly.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1094/
this one will give me 9.859:1 compression (has rubber coating)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-7733SH1/
this will give me the same 9.856:1 compression but is just a steel shim (idk if thats ok with my aluminum heads) cost half as much as the felpros

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1130/
this will give me from 9.79:1 to 9.75:1 compression but is also just a steel shim. again worried about brilling to the aluminum heads.

dont forget i want to run 92-93 octane pump gas and gona hit it with a 100-150shot down the road for the track

 

I was.
Sorry for the confusion.

 

no worries.

so wat about the headgaskets/comp ratio?

 

I'd get the ones I got.
15 squished matched with your stock deck block will give you a quench of 40. Nice number and it'll bump up your cr a bit.
I know there are compression ratio calculators around here somewhere.

 

If your wanting to bump your comp. why not have your heads milled some? and get a thiner gasket also. Just going from 9.3 to a 9.8 isn't THAT big a deal. From what Ive always heard 1 hole comp. point is aprox. 10-20hp

 

well my ideal would be to be around 9.8/10:1 so i wont have any issues with 92/93 pump gas. The heads are brand new and i would hate to mill them, id rather deck the block but rather just mess with gaskets so if i decide to throw dual turbos on it that 9.3 comp with the thicker .039" compressed felpro would be nice. if i mill the heads then theres no way to get that back down the road if i need low compression.

i say this bc for now i cant afford a nitrous kit/turbo setup but i dont want to be running around with 8.3-8.5:1 compression and the engine being a dog. so i decided to keep the deck height stock, and keep the heads at 64cc and not milled. so i can have a decent compression of 9.8:1 and run pump gas and still have a peppy lil motor untill its time for turbos (will then switch to thicker headgasket prob .039-.041" compress height and have my 9.3-9.1:1 compression. or i can leave the 9.8:1 with the nitrous since nitrous likes compression.

yea i was using an online compression ratio thingy... which is where i posted the compression ratios with diff types of head gaskets. is there really a diff between steel shim headgaskets and the rubber coated felpro headgaskets? im afraid of the brilling of the aluminum heads bc of steel headgaskets.

 

I wouldnt worry about your Comp. the way it is or at 9.8 for a forced induction setup down the road. alot of people run 10psi and under on 10:1 engines. Give or take a few psi of boost also. Its all in the tune. Keep it out of detonation and your ok.

With race gas people are running alot more boost on hi comp. engines also. Back the boost off and run Pump gas when your not heavy footed.

As for gaskets its all personal pref. buy the best you can. Alot of people run the http://www.cometic.com/faq.aspx cometic mls gaskets in boosted apps.

 

but do u think the 9.3:1 would be ok around town? this will be a daily driver so i want the most peppy and most power i can and if replacing the headgaskets with thinner shims is gona give me an extra 10hp i would do it now.

if i had 9.3-9.8:1 i would prob only run 5-10psi if i was running dual rear mounted turbos.

 

I dont think your gonna notice a seat of the pants feel from a 9.3 -- > 9.8 engine.
Your not talking 10 rwhp or anything here.

If wanta rear up on big boost Hi comp. setups to understand you should be fine all depending on the tune. head over to yellowbullet.com in the turbo section. Lotsa guys over there run BIG Comp. combos with tons of boost.

 

true... so you dont think im giving up anything with the 9.3 vs the 9.8?

id rather save the 40-60$ that id spend on the headgaskets and just run these. the ones i already have, its the permatqMLS ones. but i beleive they have a steel ring, will this brille my aluminum heads?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-7733PT2/