installing AC delete?
#1
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Car: 91 Trans Am 'vert
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 bolt
installing AC delete?
Hey guys, I have a 91 T/A 'vert with a non-functioning AC system in it. The previous owner told me that he was in the process of converting the system to handle the newer freon (I don't know the exact name) since the old stuff wasn't available anymore. But he didn't finish before he sold it to me and said that it needs a new condensor. But since this is a 'vert... I don't think I'm ever gonna use the AC. I think I'll just rip it out and replace the compressor with a pulley to free up a horse or two.
First off, lemme ask, do you guys REALLY think I might need air conditioning? I don't see any reason. Would the car be more desireable with or without it?
And 2nd, where can I get an AC delete kit? And how much do they go for? And is it a DIY job?
First off, lemme ask, do you guys REALLY think I might need air conditioning? I don't see any reason. Would the car be more desireable with or without it?
And 2nd, where can I get an AC delete kit? And how much do they go for? And is it a DIY job?
#2
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: installing AC delete?
The A/C delete pulley is available many places, for like $80 - BUT - if you have a NAPA around, they sell the same thing for $39, and usually have it in stock.
The heater box replacement is the PITW (pain in the wallet) to secure - they run anywhere from $80 to $140 or better. Sometime you get lucky and find one here in the classifieds. There's usually several on eBay as well - I got lucky and snagged one from a fellow TGO member for much cheaper than eBay. It's just the box for the cage fan (ie blowrr motor), and is much cleaner looking because it's much smaller and doesn't contain the A/C coil setup. Get one with the cage fan in place - otherwise you'll be spending another $30 on a cage fan from The Zone. You can remove the rsistors in it (the coiled wires inside under the plug) and replace with your from your a/c box. And you'll most likely have to cut off your blower motor connector and put ends on the wires as these boxes are usually older and don't have the newer connector on them.
Take it or leave it? My answer was take it out, and I'm a T-top car. My A/C never worked either, went through the trouble of trying to recharge and convert to 134a and never got anywhere with it, and since I always have the tops out anyway - I said screw it, and yanked it out. Makes getting to that #8 plug ALOT easier!
It is a DIY job - if you replace the heater box, there are two bolts that run through the firewall from inside in the pass floorwell - they take 10mm socket - the rest of what's holding the box in is on the engine bay side.
This is a non-A/C box (a rather expensive one):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMAR...Q5fAccessories
This is the A/C delete pulley at NAPA:
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...By-Pass+Pulley
Good Luck with whatever you decide.
The heater box replacement is the PITW (pain in the wallet) to secure - they run anywhere from $80 to $140 or better. Sometime you get lucky and find one here in the classifieds. There's usually several on eBay as well - I got lucky and snagged one from a fellow TGO member for much cheaper than eBay. It's just the box for the cage fan (ie blowrr motor), and is much cleaner looking because it's much smaller and doesn't contain the A/C coil setup. Get one with the cage fan in place - otherwise you'll be spending another $30 on a cage fan from The Zone. You can remove the rsistors in it (the coiled wires inside under the plug) and replace with your from your a/c box. And you'll most likely have to cut off your blower motor connector and put ends on the wires as these boxes are usually older and don't have the newer connector on them.
Take it or leave it? My answer was take it out, and I'm a T-top car. My A/C never worked either, went through the trouble of trying to recharge and convert to 134a and never got anywhere with it, and since I always have the tops out anyway - I said screw it, and yanked it out. Makes getting to that #8 plug ALOT easier!
It is a DIY job - if you replace the heater box, there are two bolts that run through the firewall from inside in the pass floorwell - they take 10mm socket - the rest of what's holding the box in is on the engine bay side.
This is a non-A/C box (a rather expensive one):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMAR...Q5fAccessories
This is the A/C delete pulley at NAPA:
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...By-Pass+Pulley
Good Luck with whatever you decide.
#3
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Car: 91 Trans Am 'vert
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 bolt
Re: installing AC delete?
The A/C delete pulley is available many places, for like $80 - BUT - if you have a NAPA around, they sell the same thing for $39, and usually have it in stock.
The heater box replacement is the PITW (pain in the wallet) to secure - they run anywhere from $80 to $140 or better. Sometime you get lucky and find one here in the classifieds. There's usually several on eBay as well - I got lucky and snagged one from a fellow TGO member for much cheaper than eBay. It's just the box for the cage fan (ie blowrr motor), and is much cleaner looking because it's much smaller and doesn't contain the A/C coil setup. Get one with the cage fan in place - otherwise you'll be spending another $30 on a cage fan from The Zone. You can remove the rsistors in it (the coiled wires inside under the plug) and replace with your from your a/c box. And you'll most likely have to cut off your blower motor connector and put ends on the wires as these boxes are usually older and don't have the newer connector on them.
Take it or leave it? My answer was take it out, and I'm a T-top car. My A/C never worked either, went through the trouble of trying to recharge and convert to 134a and never got anywhere with it, and since I always have the tops out anyway - I said screw it, and yanked it out. Makes getting to that #8 plug ALOT easier!
It is a DIY job - if you replace the heater box, there are two bolts that run through the firewall from inside in the pass floorwell - they take 10mm socket - the rest of what's holding the box in is on the engine bay side.
This is a non-A/C box (a rather expensive one):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMAR...Q5fAccessories
This is the A/C delete pulley at NAPA:
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...By-Pass+Pulley
Good Luck with whatever you decide.
The heater box replacement is the PITW (pain in the wallet) to secure - they run anywhere from $80 to $140 or better. Sometime you get lucky and find one here in the classifieds. There's usually several on eBay as well - I got lucky and snagged one from a fellow TGO member for much cheaper than eBay. It's just the box for the cage fan (ie blowrr motor), and is much cleaner looking because it's much smaller and doesn't contain the A/C coil setup. Get one with the cage fan in place - otherwise you'll be spending another $30 on a cage fan from The Zone. You can remove the rsistors in it (the coiled wires inside under the plug) and replace with your from your a/c box. And you'll most likely have to cut off your blower motor connector and put ends on the wires as these boxes are usually older and don't have the newer connector on them.
Take it or leave it? My answer was take it out, and I'm a T-top car. My A/C never worked either, went through the trouble of trying to recharge and convert to 134a and never got anywhere with it, and since I always have the tops out anyway - I said screw it, and yanked it out. Makes getting to that #8 plug ALOT easier!
It is a DIY job - if you replace the heater box, there are two bolts that run through the firewall from inside in the pass floorwell - they take 10mm socket - the rest of what's holding the box in is on the engine bay side.
This is a non-A/C box (a rather expensive one):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMAR...Q5fAccessories
This is the A/C delete pulley at NAPA:
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...By-Pass+Pulley
Good Luck with whatever you decide.
Thanks for the info! I was thinking that I'd remove the compressor along with the big silver cylinder (still working on my vocab) at least for now. And when I'm taking the system apart... do I need to worry about any chemical hazards? The system hasn't been used in God only knows how long so I'm assuming everything in it is gone but I'd prefer being safe than sorry. And when you tore yours out, did you notice any power gains?
Oh and I might yank these parts out of a junkyard car if I find one... is the heater box and pulley the same on all thirdgens?
#4
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: not the best not the worst
Re: installing AC delete?
there could still by a lubricant in the system something you wouldnt want to get on your paint but i am not sure if it is toxic
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Car: 91 camaro RS
Engine: 350, forged 355 in the works
Transmission: 4 speed goin to th400
Axle/Gears: stock 9bolt, 3.27
Re: installing AC delete?
i got my pulley from summit and it was $22
#7
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
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Re: installing AC delete?
It's illegal to release the freon from the system into the atmosphere.
That being said, 7 out of 10 A/C systems that do work leak freon daily - when I refitted mine with 134a, I filled it up - 1 year later, it was completely empty - not even a small poof when I opened the connector.
HP gains I don't know - I got so excited having a clean bay after yanking it all out that I started hacking into my TBI wiring harness to get rid of the leftover computer wiring (I switched to carb), so I haven't had my car running yet this week since I yanked it out. I wouldn't think there'd be much if any, since the compressor has a free spinning pulley until you turn on the A/C and the clutch engages.
$22 is better yet - unless shipping takes it to $39, then might as well not wait and just go to NAPA.
I didn't use a pulley at all - I snagged the brackets from a 1987 IROC and swapped over to the 1/2 serp 1/2 v-belt system, moving my alternator to the pass side where the A?C used to be. I had already deleted the smog pump when I went to a 350 carb - so now all I have is P/S, alt, W/P, and crank.
Have NO PLAN to ever sell mine, EVER! I've got probably over $12,000 in a car that blue books for $2k maybe, not to mention all the work I did myself - so there's too much money, blood & sweat in that ride to ever sell it - it'll be in my driveway until I die! In fact, I think I'll fab up a hidden box inside to have my ashes put into - that way I can at least ride it into eternity
That being said, 7 out of 10 A/C systems that do work leak freon daily - when I refitted mine with 134a, I filled it up - 1 year later, it was completely empty - not even a small poof when I opened the connector.
HP gains I don't know - I got so excited having a clean bay after yanking it all out that I started hacking into my TBI wiring harness to get rid of the leftover computer wiring (I switched to carb), so I haven't had my car running yet this week since I yanked it out. I wouldn't think there'd be much if any, since the compressor has a free spinning pulley until you turn on the A/C and the clutch engages.
$22 is better yet - unless shipping takes it to $39, then might as well not wait and just go to NAPA.
I didn't use a pulley at all - I snagged the brackets from a 1987 IROC and swapped over to the 1/2 serp 1/2 v-belt system, moving my alternator to the pass side where the A?C used to be. I had already deleted the smog pump when I went to a 350 carb - so now all I have is P/S, alt, W/P, and crank.
Have NO PLAN to ever sell mine, EVER! I've got probably over $12,000 in a car that blue books for $2k maybe, not to mention all the work I did myself - so there's too much money, blood & sweat in that ride to ever sell it - it'll be in my driveway until I die! In fact, I think I'll fab up a hidden box inside to have my ashes put into - that way I can at least ride it into eternity
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