'84 WILL NOT START!!!! HELP!!!!
'84 WILL NOT START!!!! HELP!!!!
'84 Z28 305 5.0 HO
ok car was driving fine started fine, stopped to get a bite to eat came out car wouldnt start, no click no nothing, just silence. Although have power to everything, lights, radio ect.....
replaced starter......nothing...and yes it is wired correctly.
but my previous starter only had the Bat. and the "S" this one has an additional "R" post?
but i "jumped" the starter so i know it works. Even did a volt test, starter is getting power.
replaced ignition coil........nothing
ignition coil gets power when key is in start position
still nothing!!
Somebody help me please this is really driving me crazy!
ok car was driving fine started fine, stopped to get a bite to eat came out car wouldnt start, no click no nothing, just silence. Although have power to everything, lights, radio ect.....
replaced starter......nothing...and yes it is wired correctly.
but my previous starter only had the Bat. and the "S" this one has an additional "R" post?
but i "jumped" the starter so i know it works. Even did a volt test, starter is getting power.
replaced ignition coil........nothing
ignition coil gets power when key is in start position
still nothing!!
Somebody help me please this is really driving me crazy!
Last edited by Johnny_Irish; Mar 9, 2010 at 02:41 PM.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 46
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Welcome aboard thirdgen.org.
The "R" terminal is carryover from the old days of points ignition. The ballast resistor was bypassed for starting using that terminal.
Sounds like you're low on voltage to the "S" terminal. Not too uncommon of a problem. The circuit included the ignition switch, park/neutral safety switch, and the bulkhead connector through the firewall. To say nothing of the effect of having corroded battery cable connections. Any one of those can cause a voltage drop sufficient to keep the starter solenoid from kicking.
I ruled out the battery cable connections. I was losing 3 volts through the start circuit itself. Replacing the ignition switch didn't help. My solution was to install a remote starter solenoid. It doesn't require as much voltage to function as the starter solenoid does, and it gives the starter solenoid full battery voltage directly from the battery cable.
But, check those things, especially the battery cables, before doing something that drastic.
The "R" terminal is carryover from the old days of points ignition. The ballast resistor was bypassed for starting using that terminal.
Sounds like you're low on voltage to the "S" terminal. Not too uncommon of a problem. The circuit included the ignition switch, park/neutral safety switch, and the bulkhead connector through the firewall. To say nothing of the effect of having corroded battery cable connections. Any one of those can cause a voltage drop sufficient to keep the starter solenoid from kicking.
I ruled out the battery cable connections. I was losing 3 volts through the start circuit itself. Replacing the ignition switch didn't help. My solution was to install a remote starter solenoid. It doesn't require as much voltage to function as the starter solenoid does, and it gives the starter solenoid full battery voltage directly from the battery cable.
But, check those things, especially the battery cables, before doing something that drastic.
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