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Buying 88 Formula. What should I look for.

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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 06:09 PM
  #1  
TPI_Formula88's Avatar
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Buying 88 Formula. What should I look for.

I have the basic ideas on what to look for when I go check out this car but I figured there may be some hidden stuff about the TPI and the 3rd Gens I may not know yet. Also maybe if there are some RPO codes I can look for, that would be helpful. Car has a cam and full exhaust, headers back (in case that means anything).

Thanks.

(Sorry if this is the wrong section, didn't see one for this question)
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 11:33 PM
  #2  
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From: NY
Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: ?
Re: Buying 88 Formula. What should I look for.

RPO codes are in center console. G80 is a locking differential, that's one of the only ones I know off hand.

Browse around the History/Restoration section, great info there
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #3  
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From: AZ
Car: 1978 Chevrolet impala
Engine: 350ci 300hp/356tq pace crate
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Yukon posi
Re: Buying 88 Formula. What should I look for.

watch for smoke in the exhaust indicating burnt seals/rings. If you can get the valve covers off, be aware that 187 casting codes are the boat anchor swirlies. Your car most likely comes with them.
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 07:32 AM
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: L98 with headers/exhaust
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt
Re: Buying 88 Formula. What should I look for.

Check for rust/rot at the back of all wheel-wells.
Check for rust/rot under the battery and charcoal canister.
Is it a 305 or 350?
Look at expensive wear-items like tires and shocks/struts...it will give leverage on the price.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 01:26 PM
  #5  
Gordiggz's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: NY
Car: 1983 Z-28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: ?
Re: Buying 88 Formula. What should I look for.

Also the RPO code for a real formula is W66, also look for WS6 for performance suspension.

Look for body filler by knocking and a magnet along the bottom of the doors, rockers and wheel wells also. I was so excited to find the car I was looking for I did this and still missed an actual rust hole in the door! Lucky for me is was an isolated spot due to water seepage in the window seal.

Also check to see if it has a hatch pull down motor, and if it works or not. Open the rear hatch, then close it. If you hear a hum noise and it "sucks" the hatch shut, you have one. If it doesn't pull it down but you hear the noise, then the hatch motor is broken.

Grab the steering wheel firmly and jiggle it up and down. If it has any play then the tilt mechanism is loose, and it's time consuming to fix. I've been through 3 steering columns so far on my bird....

Also if it smokes on start up, but not in any other situation, chances are it's just the valve guide seals, another common thirdgen problem. 45 bucks and some time to fix, but again something to leverage with during price negotiations.

Look for different color on the bumper too, specifically where the plastic has grooves where those pad looking things are. Sometimes you'll see where it was in a wreck and got a new bright red bumper with the world's worst black paint spray. Also look for different paint by opening up the headlights and looking inside/around them.

Check to see if all the center caps are in place. About 50-60 for a set of 4 on ebay.

Thirdgens are great and there's nothing like owning one.... so if this one doesn't work out grab another one!
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