I just want to ask this before i leave to tune the car again. Ive been trying to stop this issue for 2 weeks, but just cant figure it out. My 383 had a vacuum leak, but this is all fixed now and i tuned the car with vacuum. Its running 40 of advance i believe all in at 3k and the carb is leaned out a bit but still runing a slight bit rich. I always rather run a bit rich than lean!

Anyway if my rpms goe over 3k rpm i get some popping in the exhaust. I cant figure this out but just had an idea. Ive leaned the carb out alot and then drove it and still the same thing. So my car is running a stock coil and i didnt know this (bought the car with the 383) and the the only other weak point is the measley 600 cfm carb. So i was thinking, maybe with the high compression the spark is being blown out as the rpms increase, thuse the fuel isnt be fully ignited and is exploding in the headers. Thats all i can really think of. Im broke now and spent way to much on this car. So i can only save for one thing.

Either save for the holley 750 double pumper or get a msd box. What do you think? I really jsut want this issue solved and since im running low on money i want to make sure this is done. If you can think of anything else that could be it, just let me know and ill tell you if ive tried it or not. You guys have been more than helpful to me, and i really do appreciate it.
Again thanks guys.

 

Proper timing would be 34-36 degrees of mechanical advance all in by 2500-3000 RPMs. If your 40 is mechanical only, that's too much. If your 40 is mechanical and vacuum, that isn't enough. That's assuming your damper mark and timing tab are playing nicely together (i.e., "accurate").

Reset the timing properly and see if the popping issue goes away.

 

Exhaust leaks cause popping.
It is unlikely that continued complaining about your carburetor, or swapping to fuel injection will fix it.

Until you get all the problems sorted out you would be better off running 30* total, and only 15* of vacuum advance. The two don't get added together.
Initial advance + centrifugal advance = total advance
Vacuum advance is separate, since it is for low-load conditions where total isn't relevant.

Use WBO2 to measure AFR, even if you have to borrow one. Don't guess.
Lean misfires will cause a strong fuel smell in the exhaust, so going by that could be misleading.