ok well im hearing from many different ppl around town and their giving me different answers. im putting in heads, cam, and a new intake manifold soon. some say i need to wait 3000 miles other ppl say 1000 miles and some even said only 300 miles.

so im not sure which one to believe. i dont want to start getting on it to soon and mess things up. which one is right and if neither how long is a good time?

 

Well, don't expect to get universal agreement here either. Each responder will probably have their own, individual view on this - like with so many other things. Some folks are aggressive; others more timid. Different strokes for different folks.

On the 8 second racing engines I've built, I'd fire the fresh engine, set the ignition timing, then let the engine idle until the oil reached over 200F. During that time I'd, naturally, check for any leak and watch temps and pressure.

I'd then change the oil and filter, run the valves and the car would be ready to head to the starting line. No tip-toeing around; engine raced and taken to the 8.2K region before shifting.

For my street engine, I'd do the same thing except rather than heading to the starting line or running the valves (HR), I'd head to the nearest interstate. There I'd go full throttle to 4k/4.5k then completely lift and allow the engine to pull down to less than 2k. I'd do this repeatedly. I never counted how many times, but at LEAST ten in each direction. During this, I'd watch the gages like a HAWK.

I've don't baby my engines.

Just what I do.

Jake

 

From what I've read for camshaft breakin you run the motor at 2k for 30 minutes, change oil, then should be gtg.

Could be totally wrong, but it worked with my 302.

 

If you're putting in a roller lifter cam (you are putting in a roller lifter cam, right?), there is no break-in time for those items.

If you are putting in a flat tappet cam (in which case I hope you bought longer pushrods as well, and you have my condolences), then the break-in time with petroleum-based oil is 20-30 minutes at moderate (2000-2500) RPMs. Then change the oil and filter.

 

your not building a pro drag car.. were engines do not last very long ..rings and bearings need break in time roller cam NO
prime the oil manually no synthetic till 1,500 check for pressure.. adjust your rockers, set your idle, set your timing..
do not let it over heat as above^^^ oil change as above. it's very wise to take it easy!!!
no high revs..no hole shots... drive on the highway alternate your RPM Band.. coast do not drive a constant RPM... do this for 500 miles change oil again... to allow proper break in of all components.. drive conservatively till 1,500 change oil... then go 100%
this method is wise to make sure no contaminates are in the engine... you can listen & feel any abnormalities.

 

I never gave much time for my 2 motors. A few heat cycles to work the tune in for idle real quick and check for leaks/etc. Light driving for a few miles then few sets of various throttle pulls to various rpms while letting engine bring itself down in gear. Engine braking not braking with pedal. This pulls higher vacuum and allows the rings to expand to fit the bore and then wear in.

Changed oil after 75 miles or so of this type of driving and i was racing it.

 

Are we talking about heads, cam, and intake only here?

Or is this a complete rebuild, including rings?

 

this is only a heads cam and intake nothing else. n yes its the roller cam. my brother had an ss camaro 98 n he did the same thing but babied it for 3000

 

o and for the ppl that didnt really baby the engine for long did anything happen the anything at all such as oil pressure drops or anything like that? was everything ok in the end?

 

new heads/springs and cam only? I'd just install, let it heat up to operation temp and see if there are any leaks. Then just drive it like you stole it. Shouldnt need any break in time. Startup and run to warm up will heatcycle the springs and pump the lifters back up with oil. Should be good to go.

 

(Which is basically what I said, except I could never figure out why you would want to drive a car you own like you stole it. . .)

 

Nope, no problem at all. Had there been, I wouldn't have cited the procedure I use. Sorry if that tripped you up. It's DEFINITELY not my desire to post anything that could hurt your engine.

Tell me, where'd your brother got that 3k mile break-in info? Can you post a link to that? I'm continually amazed at the stuff that floats around.

Jake

 

Tell me, where'd your brother got that 3k mile break-in info? Can you post a link to that? I'm continually amazed at the stuff that floats around.

Jake[/quote]

he jus got that idea from a guy here in town not off the internet. and thats y im on here asking lol but it jus seems like i dont reallly need to baby it jus check for leaks and get up n go lol