A few engine Q's on '88
A few engine Q's on '88
So have been helping my buddy working on his '88 IROC-Z. Some issues we cannot quite figure out or at least we are trying to figure what works best with a couple of things.
First off, with the 305 in it, what is the normal operating temp suppoed to be? With that, when we got the car, it had no fans whatsoever. He bought a two stage dual fan setup, but that draws a whole lot of power and seems to be messing with the electrical. Picked up the fan and shroud that we think was supposed to be in there to start with, but am wondering, is it best to just go with a clutch fan in this situation?
So even with the fans in, when the car is driving around neighborhoods, it tends to get hot even on cool days and sometimes those fans don't kick on. Have replaced the thermostat, the oil looks good (not milky or anything), and all else we can tell looks good, but not sure what else we can check. Ideas on this please?
So we are going to test the alternator tomorrow as there have been some voltage issues. Sometimes it drops way low. There is a new battery in it. Are the '88's known for electrical issues? Before buying this car, the engine was replaced and it could be that something wasn't hooked up right. Of course that can be a nightmare to trace down. Suggestions in a situation like this?
Lastly, the car has had brakes issues since he picked it up this past November. We have replaced the master cylinder (twice), replaced the rear drums (the hardware), the fronts look good. All we can think of next is the proportioning valve. What is happening is that the brakes sometimes lock up in the back when trying to come to a stop and then sometimes it also pulls to the right (even though the fronts look good). Any thoughts on brake issues with this year and model?
Anyhow, thanks for any and all help you can provide.
First off, with the 305 in it, what is the normal operating temp suppoed to be? With that, when we got the car, it had no fans whatsoever. He bought a two stage dual fan setup, but that draws a whole lot of power and seems to be messing with the electrical. Picked up the fan and shroud that we think was supposed to be in there to start with, but am wondering, is it best to just go with a clutch fan in this situation?
So even with the fans in, when the car is driving around neighborhoods, it tends to get hot even on cool days and sometimes those fans don't kick on. Have replaced the thermostat, the oil looks good (not milky or anything), and all else we can tell looks good, but not sure what else we can check. Ideas on this please?
So we are going to test the alternator tomorrow as there have been some voltage issues. Sometimes it drops way low. There is a new battery in it. Are the '88's known for electrical issues? Before buying this car, the engine was replaced and it could be that something wasn't hooked up right. Of course that can be a nightmare to trace down. Suggestions in a situation like this?
Lastly, the car has had brakes issues since he picked it up this past November. We have replaced the master cylinder (twice), replaced the rear drums (the hardware), the fronts look good. All we can think of next is the proportioning valve. What is happening is that the brakes sometimes lock up in the back when trying to come to a stop and then sometimes it also pulls to the right (even though the fronts look good). Any thoughts on brake issues with this year and model?
Anyhow, thanks for any and all help you can provide.
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From: Moneta, VA
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt 3.27 posi
Re: A few engine Q's on '88
These engines have a normal tendency to run hot - usually at around 200 - 220 degrees at idle on a hot day. They are designed to run fairly hot. The primary fan doesn't kick in until the temp goes over 200, and it will run until it goes down to about 180. The secondary fan doesn't come on until you get up to around 235. There are thermostatic switches that govern a relay which powers the fans. Some guys will rig the fans to run all the time, and others use manual switches to kick them on when they see the need.
A clutch fan is less efficient, and harder on your water pump, but some here prefer to run one.
Lots of people have thirdgens that run for 200K miles and more, even with them running as hot as they do. Bottom line: what's important is what is normal for these engines. That having been said, there is a whole message board here devoted just to cooling, and that is because it is a major issue for these cars. I suggest that you read up in there to get up to speed.
Your problem could be a bad alternator, and that's easy to test. You are also correct in wondering about the wiring, not because these cars have bad electrical systems, but rather because after 22 years and who knows how many owners, a lot of things can and do happen. These cars are popular with folks who like to do mods, and sadly, many of them cut corners and/or lack the knowledge and/or skills to do a proper job. As a result, lots of thirdgens end up getting 'hacked'. One of the best favors you can do for your car is to get your hands on a decent set of wiring diagrams (Haynes and Clymer manuals come with them, but they are not always the best or most detailed).
As far as your brakes are concerned, it would help to know why you have changed the parts that you did. Did they fail, or are you just throwing parts at the problem?
The info you posted suggests to me that you may have a sticky wheel cylinder. Did you replace those? They are relatively inexpensive, and are one of the more common things to fail in a drum brake setup, especially on an older car.
A clutch fan is less efficient, and harder on your water pump, but some here prefer to run one.
Lots of people have thirdgens that run for 200K miles and more, even with them running as hot as they do. Bottom line: what's important is what is normal for these engines. That having been said, there is a whole message board here devoted just to cooling, and that is because it is a major issue for these cars. I suggest that you read up in there to get up to speed.
Your problem could be a bad alternator, and that's easy to test. You are also correct in wondering about the wiring, not because these cars have bad electrical systems, but rather because after 22 years and who knows how many owners, a lot of things can and do happen. These cars are popular with folks who like to do mods, and sadly, many of them cut corners and/or lack the knowledge and/or skills to do a proper job. As a result, lots of thirdgens end up getting 'hacked'. One of the best favors you can do for your car is to get your hands on a decent set of wiring diagrams (Haynes and Clymer manuals come with them, but they are not always the best or most detailed).
As far as your brakes are concerned, it would help to know why you have changed the parts that you did. Did they fail, or are you just throwing parts at the problem?
The info you posted suggests to me that you may have a sticky wheel cylinder. Did you replace those? They are relatively inexpensive, and are one of the more common things to fail in a drum brake setup, especially on an older car.
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: A few engine Q's on '88
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; Apr 25, 2010 at 07:45 AM.
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