So about 2 years ago i built this 327 for my '86 iroc its bored .030 over with speedpro forged flattops and a lunati voodoo cam(60104LK) and has 305 heads that've been milled out for 2.02 intake and 1.60 ex and have a 53cc chamber making 10.3:1 cr..running a 600 edelbrock at the moment but will soon be a 670 holley..runs quite well just wondering if anyone had any advice for this setup and anything that could be done to better it..thanks

 

Are you disassembling it and going through it? Or just looking to add on it what you have?

 

Sounds good, better than what I have, mine is near stock. Do you have roller rockers, those are fairly cheap ($200 from summit, IIRC). And you could get headers/exhaust if you don't already.

Welcome to the forums aswell!

 

thanks..its what is in my car still and i forgot to mention it has flowtech shorty headers..not sure what kinda horsepower it makes but was wonderin if theres any other bolt on mods that im missin out on that would help out..was goin to look in to puttin some 3.73's in the rear??not real sure how much abuse a gm 10bolt can take tho

 

just adding to it

 

MSD #MSD8361 Pro-Billet distributor
http://www.streetsideauto.com/produc...beazgVVNmSC545

and

Renegade #REN72026 Aluminum air-gap intake manifold
http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com...3136&parent=51


are both excellent upgrades, depending on what you have for an intake and distributor right now. You didn't say.

 

if you dont allready, invest in a set of full roller rockers. long tubes wouldnt hurt either.

 

think of clearance issues with long tubes, my headman shortys work great on mine

 

oh yea i did forget about my intake...its a edelbrock performer and a stock hei distributor...thanks all for the advice

 

thats a nice lookin air gap intake...do those actually help cool your engine down or just keep intake air cooler so it will possibly run better??

 

It just reduces the amount of heat-soak that makes it into the intake air stream.

Warm intake air makes for better idle and drivability.
Cooler intake air makes more WOT power, for performance.

If your EGR passages in the heads are blocked so that the heat crossover in your intake manifold isn't getting that heat, then an upgrade to an Air-Gap design intake may show little or no gain in power on a small engine.
The Air-Gap design doesn't use the EGR/heat-crossover, so there is a big reduction of heat in the intake air.

The intake doesn't keep your whole engine, or coolant any cooler than before, but anything directly attached to the intake manifold, like your carburetor, will be cooler.

My preference is to block the EGR and heat, then use a heat-stove air duct in winter if necessary.

The intake and distributor I linked to would make great upgrades for WOT power production when installed and set up properly.

If you are good with working with distributors, then you can often get equal performance by modification and adjustment to an HEI distributor that is in good working order. I have done it.

It generally involves disassembling the whole distributor, adding shims to take slop out of the shaft, reconditioning or replacing the distributor gear, adding a small oiling slot to the outer casing (for the gear), cleaning and lubing the centrifugal advance mechanism, adding a recurve kit with springs, weights, and bushings to give the advance curve you're looking for, either adding an adjustable vacuum advance unit, or adding a vacuum advance limiter to the mechanism, replacing the bushing in the cap with a low-resistance unit, clean and relube the shaft, adding fresh heat-sinking compound under the module, then check the cap-to-rotor phasing and correct if necessary. I would also improve the grounding of both the module and the coil in the HEI unit.

It saves money, but it takes some work. I'm a big DIY'er, and I've done it both ways, as well as an HEI with cap-adapt for external coil.

My preference for a racing application is for the new MSD distributor combined with MSD 6AL amplifier box and Blaster-3 coil. I find them to be great quality and easy to work with. Other people like the HEI or prefer the stock look.

 

yea i really havent been into a hei distributor much but know its contents thats about it...and my crossovers are blocked as well..I was wondering what a good initial timing would be for a motor such as mine..as of now its only 8 or 10 with a factory vaccum advance..i've heard of people putting it up to 14-16, with my compression would it not ping?

 

I would do things like cleaning up the parts you have. Port your heads and intake, there is a ton of info and pics to help you through this. Porting will not only boost horsepower but you should get better mileage. Also a custom ground cam can make all the difference in the world. Another really good thing to do is have that bad boy dyno tunned after you complete all of your planned mods. I say this because there's a lot of people who can get your tune close but it takes a dyno to make her perfect. I've seen 80 plus hp increase on a dyno just by getting the tune right.

 

Another point about getting your heads ported. If you do not open up the throat when you put larger valves in you wont gain enough flow to make the valve upgrade worth your time or money. Another really importand thing is the combustion chamber, when you had it milled did you come back and grind the edges of the chamber? When you deck a head it leaves sharp edges and causes detonation. Its lso worth polishing them up to while your in there. Anything you can do to keep detonation away.

 

yea i agree on all that..all very good points i have ported one set of heads before i bought a dvd off of ebay that shows quite good detail on how to do it..it turned out pretty good i don't know if i said i had the work done on those heads or not but i bought them the way they are i just need to get the motivation to get them back off and get to work on them..i got a good set of 462 double humps thats what i ported..was tryin to figure a way out to put them on my car but with elec fans i need the water jacket hole in the side of the head for my fan switch and temp sender not to mention my accessories...they have no accessory holes..

 

Yahh I hear you there, its to bad because those are really good heads. Was your block decked to the pistons when you built her? If not that would really help quench. The efficiency of that engine would be crazy if you did everything we talked about, not to mention it would be a power house.

 

no i never had the block decked the pistons pretty much come right up to the top anyhow if i remember correctly..they're forged flat tops with the 4 valve reliefs..yea im really thinkin the port/polish isn't too far outta the question..i'm really wanting to do it just needin some spare time..seems like it all gets away

 

If man had more time we would all be in serious trouble. Just kiding
I am no pro but im here to bounce ideas off of and help when I can.