Hi fellas...
It's been a while since I posted.
I'm at another wall in my quest to get my ride straight again.
First rebuild went well for about 100 miles and then I had to redo the crank and bearings...the whole shibang....things I did not see the first time...
Anyways I have it back together and the only thing that's really got me stumped is the infernal loud ticking coming from my valves...
I have re-lashed twice now to find the culprit but it sounds like all of them really...I can't pinpoint any.
I am at the point of asking...is it the 10w30 I put in instead of the 10w40 that I think should be used....I am pulling my hair on this one again...but I'm looking for clarification before I go draining out a gallon that I don't need to.
It's the only thing that I know that I have done different this time.

One thing that I did notice is that when I was lashing using the OPPOSITES method...the valve was actually pushing the rod back down as I watched each lifter peak out...I found that weird because they stayed up any other time I did this....

The reason I used the 10w30 is because I bought it in error but figured I'd be draining and renewing when I was sure I had no leaks...which I still have and it's getting on my chi chi's.
Anyone around to comment on this please...
Once again...thanks to TGO I have got this far....

 

I have been running Mobil 1 15-50 oil for the past year now and my engine runs better than ever with it. The 15-50 is formulated for our older valve train design and racing engines and has lots of anti wear additives....but it ain't cheap!

 

i agree with canuckbird. try 15-50 or 20-50

 

well I had no replies earlier and did a change to 10w40.
Slight change but not much.
Was letting my neighbor hear it when my intake sprung a leak from the coolant...Pfff.
I'll see what happens with this when I change the gaskets tomorrow.
I understand those thicker oils would help though.
I had no valve noise before crank replacement. That's what's got me miffed.