My first tune up, need advice?
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 482
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From: SE Houston TX
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
My first tune up, need advice?
Well i got a 91 camaro RS, this is my first car and i haven't had any experience with tune ups/cars yet.
I know the basics like replacing the spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter etc.
What else should i look into replacing?
What brands are best for the spark plugs/wires
A friend of mine suggested AC Delco but I would like some opinions/experiences from you guys.
I'm also not completely sure as to what price to expect for the spark plug wires, i know the spark plugs themselves range from like 2-9$
Just picture you just got a car and don't know anything that has been done to it or how its been taken care of, what is the first thing you would replace or tune up??
Thanks for the help guys I appreciate it.
I know the basics like replacing the spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter etc.
What else should i look into replacing?
What brands are best for the spark plugs/wires
A friend of mine suggested AC Delco but I would like some opinions/experiences from you guys.
I'm also not completely sure as to what price to expect for the spark plug wires, i know the spark plugs themselves range from like 2-9$
Just picture you just got a car and don't know anything that has been done to it or how its been taken care of, what is the first thing you would replace or tune up??
Thanks for the help guys I appreciate it.
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iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 676
Likes: 1
From: Crawfordsville, IN
Car: 1984 Camaro 'Vert
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: My first tune up, need advice?
Spark plugs, spark plug wires, I'd likely replace the distributor cap too.
Check and change all fluids as needed. Oil, and oil filter are a must. Air filter is a must.
A radiator flush would also be a good idea for the car.
I'd also take the car to autozone/advanced auto, whatever you have, and take advantage of their free service that tests the battery and alternator, so you can see what you have there.
Assuming the car has advanced mileage, I'd replace the fuel filter too.
While not part of a "tune up" I'd also check the safety/stopping systems on your car. Do the seatbelts work properly or do they hang loose? Do the brake pads look ok? Does the car stop ok? Rectify any problems you have with these things. Same thing goes with the tires, check the tread depth, look for uneven wear. Replace bad tires, and get the car aligned if there's uneven wear.
As far as price, you have to set yourself on what your looking for. You can go with high end stuff if your trying to really improve your car and squeeze out any MPG or performance. You can go with low end stuff if your just trying to get it moving again, or the middle of the road with factory quality parts if your like most people. Searching an auto parts store online would give you a great idea of parts prices. Most of them have several options for you, so you can see how much your willing to spend.
Check and change all fluids as needed. Oil, and oil filter are a must. Air filter is a must.
A radiator flush would also be a good idea for the car.
I'd also take the car to autozone/advanced auto, whatever you have, and take advantage of their free service that tests the battery and alternator, so you can see what you have there.
Assuming the car has advanced mileage, I'd replace the fuel filter too.
While not part of a "tune up" I'd also check the safety/stopping systems on your car. Do the seatbelts work properly or do they hang loose? Do the brake pads look ok? Does the car stop ok? Rectify any problems you have with these things. Same thing goes with the tires, check the tread depth, look for uneven wear. Replace bad tires, and get the car aligned if there's uneven wear.
As far as price, you have to set yourself on what your looking for. You can go with high end stuff if your trying to really improve your car and squeeze out any MPG or performance. You can go with low end stuff if your just trying to get it moving again, or the middle of the road with factory quality parts if your like most people. Searching an auto parts store online would give you a great idea of parts prices. Most of them have several options for you, so you can see how much your willing to spend.
Last edited by campin1983; Jun 17, 2010 at 08:42 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 482
Likes: 3
From: SE Houston TX
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Re: My first tune up, need advice?
Thanks man im definitely making myself a to do list with this car.
What purpose does the distributor cap have?
What purpose does the distributor cap have?
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 676
Likes: 1
From: Crawfordsville, IN
Car: 1984 Camaro 'Vert
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: My first tune up, need advice?
Dizzy cap is what the spark plug leads connect to. Its just part of the spark system and can get older and function worse just like anything else in the car. They are usually fairly cheap.
Word of caution: If you try to replace all the plug wires AND the dizzy cap at the same time, you could accidentally mix up your wires. I usually replace the wires, one at a time, then after they are hooked back up, I transfer them one by one from the old dizzy cap to the new one. This way you don't accidentally screw up your firing order.
Word of caution: If you try to replace all the plug wires AND the dizzy cap at the same time, you could accidentally mix up your wires. I usually replace the wires, one at a time, then after they are hooked back up, I transfer them one by one from the old dizzy cap to the new one. This way you don't accidentally screw up your firing order.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: My first tune up, need advice?
Before you replace the plug wires, get a volt/ohm meter, set it to ohms, and check the resistance of each wire - I can't tell you how many times I've bought new plug wires that had breaks in them.
A/C Delco plugs are fine - there's a ton of fancy plugs in the world, but none ever seem to do as well as the old standard. Just check the gap before install.
Also change out rotor button under the dist. cap.
Fuel filter is a great suggestion. While at the auto parts store, get a can of PB Blaster - it's a penetrating oil - much better than WD40 - you'll need it to loosen up the rusty connectors on the fuel filter. Fuel filter is located driver side, just in front of the rear tire. Good to have flare ended wrenches for this - if you have a Harbor Freight store close by grab a cheap set for ~$12 - those flared ends really help disconnecting these fuel fittings without stripping them. Spray the PB Blaster on the connectors, then wait a few hours to let it penetrate - really makes a difference. You'll have fuel leaking - watch the face! Release pressure on the tank by removing gas cap and replacing first.
Like mentioned, do the plug wires one at a time to the old cap, then replace the old cap with new cap one wire at a time to keep firing order.
While under the hood, check all vacuum lines for cracks and replace those as well - vacuum tubing sold behind the counter by the foot (much cheaper than those pre-packaged rolls).
Take wheels off and check the rubber brake hoses for cracks and age - that's probably the best 1st brake upgrade anyone can do - the rubber hoses weaken over time, and expand with the brake line pressures - expanding hoses means less pressure to the calipers/wheel cylinders since the fluid is expanding in the rubber hose instead of moving through to move the pistons. If you replace any - then you'll have to bleed the brakes really well - it's a PITA, but required. If you do rears, then bleed all 4 wheels, if just the front, then only need to bleed front. Bleed the farthest wheel from the booster first, ie pass rear first, then driver rear, then pass front, then driver front (unless all you did was fronts or rears, understand?).
About only other thing if you get brave is to check timing - again Harbor Freight sells decent enough timing lights cheap - like ~$15-$20. You have to disconnect the EST (Electronic Spark Timing) wire to set base timing - it will be a tan wire that comes out of the pass side wiring harness, has a connector in the middle, and returns to the same harness - located by the pass side strut tower. Search on here for "EST wire" for more info.
Is this a V8, V6? Auto or manual tranny? TBI or TPI?
Fluids a definite! Change oil/filter, air filter, flush coolant and replace with 50/50 mix.
BUT - if it's an automatic, and you have no service records on tranny fluid changes, leave the tranny alone! Top it off if needed, but don't change fluid out unless you know for sure it's been done regularly. Often over the years, small particles build up in tranny fluid. These particles act as a friction additive in the tranny - when fluid hasn't been changed regularly, and then all of a sudden it's changed, the particles are lost with the old fluid, and then all of a sudden the tranny can start slipping. But left alone, alot of times the tranny will be fine for years of normal driving.
A/C Delco plugs are fine - there's a ton of fancy plugs in the world, but none ever seem to do as well as the old standard. Just check the gap before install.
Also change out rotor button under the dist. cap.
Fuel filter is a great suggestion. While at the auto parts store, get a can of PB Blaster - it's a penetrating oil - much better than WD40 - you'll need it to loosen up the rusty connectors on the fuel filter. Fuel filter is located driver side, just in front of the rear tire. Good to have flare ended wrenches for this - if you have a Harbor Freight store close by grab a cheap set for ~$12 - those flared ends really help disconnecting these fuel fittings without stripping them. Spray the PB Blaster on the connectors, then wait a few hours to let it penetrate - really makes a difference. You'll have fuel leaking - watch the face! Release pressure on the tank by removing gas cap and replacing first.
Like mentioned, do the plug wires one at a time to the old cap, then replace the old cap with new cap one wire at a time to keep firing order.
While under the hood, check all vacuum lines for cracks and replace those as well - vacuum tubing sold behind the counter by the foot (much cheaper than those pre-packaged rolls).
Take wheels off and check the rubber brake hoses for cracks and age - that's probably the best 1st brake upgrade anyone can do - the rubber hoses weaken over time, and expand with the brake line pressures - expanding hoses means less pressure to the calipers/wheel cylinders since the fluid is expanding in the rubber hose instead of moving through to move the pistons. If you replace any - then you'll have to bleed the brakes really well - it's a PITA, but required. If you do rears, then bleed all 4 wheels, if just the front, then only need to bleed front. Bleed the farthest wheel from the booster first, ie pass rear first, then driver rear, then pass front, then driver front (unless all you did was fronts or rears, understand?).
About only other thing if you get brave is to check timing - again Harbor Freight sells decent enough timing lights cheap - like ~$15-$20. You have to disconnect the EST (Electronic Spark Timing) wire to set base timing - it will be a tan wire that comes out of the pass side wiring harness, has a connector in the middle, and returns to the same harness - located by the pass side strut tower. Search on here for "EST wire" for more info.
Is this a V8, V6? Auto or manual tranny? TBI or TPI?
Fluids a definite! Change oil/filter, air filter, flush coolant and replace with 50/50 mix.
BUT - if it's an automatic, and you have no service records on tranny fluid changes, leave the tranny alone! Top it off if needed, but don't change fluid out unless you know for sure it's been done regularly. Often over the years, small particles build up in tranny fluid. These particles act as a friction additive in the tranny - when fluid hasn't been changed regularly, and then all of a sudden it's changed, the particles are lost with the old fluid, and then all of a sudden the tranny can start slipping. But left alone, alot of times the tranny will be fine for years of normal driving.
Last edited by camaronewbie; Jun 17, 2010 at 12:47 PM.
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