So I bought my first car which was my dream car. Only problem is I spent all my money and then some on it and I work at a jewel that pays me ****. I love the car but cant afford to keep it in its original good running condition. Its got 73k miles with one silver dollar size ding on top bend of the quarter panel. Its red with the gray skirts. Back right rear has some paint cracks and fade but still shines from afar. 305 Automatic with little rust by strut tower, looks like it could just get sanded and repainted real quick, and has almost no rust underneath. Practically new Indy 500 tires with almost all nubbies still. The interior is mint with black clothe interior, no cracks or anything on dash. Needs new dome light because its cracked. It needs a new exhaust and the hydraulic lifts for the hood and trunk. It hurts to say I need to get rid of it and buy something more economic. I was just wondering what price i should be looking at for it? It was owned by an old couple for 24 of its 26 years who drove it on weekends and special occasions. Im hoping to do it before winter because i dont want to have to garage it and get a beater.

 

Its also a hard top with aftermarket radio the couple put in.

 

I have the EXACT same car! Anyhoo..............Its not made for winter driving
thats for sure! But I have other cars for winter use.

Best advise...........Save your cash and get a winter beater !

 

Congrats on your car. It's cheaper to keep them up and running than to buy a new one with problems that you don't know. The fact you got this one with so low miles from a couple that babied it is any car-guy's dream. Stock 84 will run fine in the winter. Don't let anyone tell you different.

The hydraulic lifts will run you about $25.00 or from Autozone for a pair. The new Exhaust will be a bit more but you can probably get it patched at a shop for cheaper than a new one. Then again, depending on your budget and where it's leaking, a new catback from summit only runs about $225 which is what a shop will probably run to "fix" it. now, if it's the Cat that you need, that's going to not be too cheap. As for the paint, that can wait. Mine has needed a paint job for 8 years now and it's the absolute last thing on my list. It sounds like you got a great car that needs some TLC. I just want you to compare a couple hundred now to forking over $1-5K for a new "used" car after selling yours. It's just not worth it. Just remember, all cars will have problems. It's just a matter of do you really want to get rid of your "Dream Car" because it needs a little work for something that will cost more to fix later because it's newer?

 

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1894033237.html

Thats the link if you want to look at the pictures to see what im talking about.

Im not too worried about fixing it. Its the fact that i still owe my step sis 400 and just got a ticket from the red light enforcement cameras because a big truck was in front of me and since i work at jewel and get paid **** Im only left with about 15 dollars to put in gas every week which last at most 2 days. Ive already found all the parts i need and I already know the cost.

As for the exhaust im pretty sure its everything except the headers.

I also need to end my overheating problem. Ive raplaced the thermostat with a 160 and bought a fan switch for 178 on 168 off and started using distilled water instead of coolant. When I had the radiator cap off a while back i saw that the water pump kicked on but I was also thinking maybe its just not always kicking on or at the right time. I also made my own air dam that helped a lot.

If i were to have a blown head how fast should it be heating up?

 

Using water only is a terrible idea.

The water pump doesn't "kick on", it's always pumping.

What are the symptoms of your overheating problem?

 

Ive been told by many mechanics and others that using water distilled water would keep it cooler. That thats what people in the south use. What do you mean symptoms. It doesnt heat up right away. A drive on the highway for about an hour gets it about 220, with a 160 thermo and the fan practically running all the time. I disconnected the a.c. wire so when i turn it on just the fan turns on.

So say I take the cap off and start the car when its cool like in the morning. Should I see it turn on and begin flowing it through the radiator right away or when it warms up?

Tomorrow im gonna try and drive it with the fan turning on when its supposed to and see how long it takes to heat up and how high it gets.

It hasnt gotten pass the 3rd marker on the temp gauge, but I have a gut feeling if its driven long enough it will overheat.

 

Believe me, I'm a lot further south than "The South", and we use coolant. Straight distilled water will just corrode your cooling system.

The fan doesn't do much for airflow through the radiator at highway speeds. If you're overheating then, it's not the problem. Have you checked the air dam?

 

I made the air dam myself. Its the same width and the bottom is 6in from the ground with about a 70degree angle. It helped alot when I put it on

 

Made it from what? How similar is it to the factory air dam?

 

Lies!! i work at a mechanic shop here in Dallas Texas. Trust me bud, that is complete B.S. Use coolant for the love of God.

Why would somebody even tell you that?

 

mmm alright ill probably switch that out tomorrow or something. The air dam is made from acrylic Plexiglas I believe. My step dad told me it wont bend but it will snap off, so it doesn't ruin where its bolted on, if it takes a hit. Ill also take a picture of it tomorrow. I tried my best cutting it to size. The engle was straight down and i was told by others on this site to try and bend the bottom forward so i just put it on an engle when i put it together. Its same width from left to right and i wasnt sure about its height so i just made it so the bottom was around 5 or 6 in off the ground for clearance

 

5 or 6" sounds high, but might not be. I would make it from something more flexible so you're not breaking it all the time. I wouldn't worry about angling it forward too much.

How hot does it get when it's idling?

 

could you check how yours is for me? I can just cut a new piece. Its ALOT cheaper. It runs about 160 with the fan running i beleive? Im gonna put it through all the test tomorrow see what temps it runs at idle and on the street. When should my water pump start circulating the coolant?

 

I would, but it's 2300 miles away.

 

oh ha ha sorry. I'm gonna be bringing it to a car show on the 29th so hopefully ill get some tips there as well

Any clue on when the water pumps supposed to turn on? Would the radiator cap be an issue?

 

Like I said before, the water pump is always on. It's driven by the crankshaft.

The radiator cap isn't an issue unless you're boiling over.

 

Is there a chance it could be faulty. Only working sometimes?

 

With the cap off, when you see the water in the radiator "move" that means the Thermostat opened, so if you check the temp of the fluid, should be close to whatever your thermostat is set for to open. Since you said that it's not warming up at all or takes an hour, when you see the "water" move in the radiator, does it move right away? If it does, I'd say you have a bad thermostat...one that is stuck open as they designed to do when they fail. I'd replace it with a 180* stat and go from there.


You say it takes an hour to get to 220...that's a long time. Your 160 thermostat will have something to do with that. The lower temp thermostat will cause the car to run colder and take longer to warm up. These cars were designed to run in the 210* range. Factory switch turns on at 225 and off at 190 or 200. Angling the Air Damn forward won't have much of an effect. If you look at your the bottom of your car, the Air dam should stick down below the bottom most portion that you can see. So if the bottom of the nose is the "flat" plane that you would call the bottom of the car, the airdam should go down another inch or two.

Watch your thermostat next time your car is running. When it gets to your 178*, the fan(s) should turn on. Do they?

Do you have A/C? If you do, does it turn on when you turn the AC on? If it's a single fan, the fan will turn on when you turn the AC on. If you have a dual fan, one of the fans will turn on when the AC is turned on.

If only the AC turns the fan(s) on, or none of the fans come on, then there is part of your problem. most likely a relay or burnt wire somewhere.

 

I wouldn't think so. Especially if if takes longer to heat up, but I'm not the best at diagnosing problems.

Also just throwing this out there, but perhaps there's air trapped in the coolant system. Run the motor with the radiator cap off and see if it purges itself of air, and the coolant gets low. Maybe your engine has an air-bleed by the water neck, to help get the air out.

When you do your testing, let us know when exactly it overheats. Does it overheat during idle only? When on the highway only(not including stop and go)? Or both?

 

You know, I completely forgot about "burping" the motor! LoL. Yes, this is a must. if you have hot spots caused by air bubbles it'll completely mess with your system.

 

I have a new 160 thermo and im trying to put the fan switch. I know where it plugs in and everything but the switch i have has a short wire so im unsure if im supposed to snip the existing one and just attach it back to the new one when i plug it in.

As for burping it when i filled the radiator i kept the cap off and would fill it until it started to overflow on me and then i put the cap back on.

I disconnected the a.c so when i flip the switch just my fan turns on. The stock 230 switch wasnt really kicking on at the rite time which is why i made it so i can just turn it on.

I started the car this morning and it took about 7 minutes to get to 175 and then i turned the fan on and it stayed at a steady 165 about. I tried to imitate having the 178 on 168 off switch that i purchased.

I drove it around for a little today and it was staying at about 165 170
It hasnt technically overheated on me but when i was on the highway a while ago it got to about 200 with the fan on. Any clues?

I cant pay for a mechanic so im trying to do all this on my own

The air dam sticks about an in under the front

 

You're basing all your temperatures on the stock gauge?

 

Yea, and when it says its hot it feels hot and same with when its cool. Is there anything cheap i can buy to test the temp?

 

What about when I take the gas cap off it hisses? Is that bad or how it supposed to be?

 

That's normal, our car's have pressurized gas tanks.

Burping the engine means you add water, let it run till it bubbles down (it may bubble over a little), then add more, let it run, it'll bubble down (The air is escaping from the hoses and engine block etc.), and you add more. Make sure you run your heater to ensure the heatercore is open as well. You may need to do this 3-4 times. Then top off the overflow, put the cap on and call it a day. that should take care of any problems you have.

Don't trust your factory temp gauge to be accurate. Mine reads 20-30* hotter than it actually is. You can buy an infared thermostat and check the temp of the radiator when the fan comes on. I'd trust the temp the fan switch turns on as "accurate" more than I'd trust what the gauge is telling me.

The fan switches come with a pigtail, you need to connect that pigtail to the one already on the car so you may need to cut/splice it to get it to work.

 

Just making sure I didn't have more problems.

Yea, I believe i just let it bubble a little and then just put the cap on when it started coming out a lot.

How much am I looking for a new temp gauge? I can probably use a friends to find out the temp.

Ill hook up the new switch tomorrow most likely then. Im gonna have to splice it. I just wanted to make sure before i started cutting.

So for tomorrow im gonna switch the coolant back to antifreeze, burp the motor, and I believe im supposed to do the fan switch when the coolants drained correct?

 

Yeah, don't pull the switch until you drain it as the switch sits in one of the water jackets. Just splice the new wire onto the one you take off the old fan switch. Just to make sure, this is the sensor that's on the passenger side, not the one on the drivers side. The one on the drivers side is for your temp gauge.

Not sure on a price for the thermometor but you can pick them up at just about any auto parts store.

 

ok thanks. I drove for a little over a half hour today and everything was working great....

until i pulled into my driveway. Made a sharp turn in front to pull in backwards and i ended turning the wheel all the way and i heard a pop. Pulled back and left a big trail of what im thinking is power steering fluid.

then my wheel basically locked up and i couldnt turn. Im hoping this is just one of the hoses as its 2 am and i have work at 7 so i cant look till later on.

 

So my problem last night turned out to be a blown hydraulic water pump hose.

 

Do you have any problems with your idle??? My idle is around 500 rpm and it used to run great! I had my engine replaced in 2009 and transmition replaced in 2010... I have a 1984 z28 and it has been in NO accidents EVER!!! I wondered if I should turn the idle thing up??? But, I have already done that tons of times???

 

My bone stock 165k miles 84 305 HO idles at around 800 warm.
As long as it idles fine no stalling or bucking in gear I see no need to
change it.

 

WELCOME TO TGO!!

I enjoy responding to first posts!

Are you having problems keeping it running? Does it stall out or something?


**When the engine is warmed up***
If you have a manual, it should idle around 500-600rpm in neutral. If you have an auto, it should idle 800-900 out of gear and around 500-600 in "D". Slightly higher if the AC is engaged.

 

My first Camaro was an 84 L-69, but I don't remember how the temp gauge was set up.

Is this in city driving/stop and go traffic, or?

 

My 84 used to get to the 3rd tick on the gauge before the fan would kick in and bring it back down to the middle (220 I believe it says there). Our gauges are notoriously fickle, so unless it's actually boiling over into the radiator overflow, I don't see it being a problem as long as the fan is actually kicking on when it's supposed to.

 

Your not kidding. By the time my fans come on (235* according to my Tech1) my temp guage is pegged up top. But the car NEVER actually overheats and the ONLY time it'll get to 235 is if it idles for a LOOONG time or I'm doing some sort of service bay test. Scared the **** outta me the first time it pegged so high because I had just done the water outlet housing lol. Driving around town it NEVER goes above 210 according to the scanner.